I had posted here before about the sudden stalling my 380 sometimes does after the engine is fully warmed after I place it in gear or stop at a traffic light. I have been told it could be the idle control valve.... checked that and it is fine. Idle goes up when it is disconnected. I have not yet tried to check for vacuum leaks, as mentioned here and recommended to me by some here. I was told to start the engine and spray brake cleaner around (on cold engine) to check for leaks.

Well, to update, strangely, the engine has NOT been stalling, but when I first start it of the mornings, after about 10 seconds, it starts missing and "choking" itself and puts out "gas" (also known as carburator smoke on older carburated cars) from the exhaust. Its like it is getting too much gas. If I hold the accelerator steady when in park, it misses, but upon acceleration, or even in gear at steady acceleration, it smooths out. It will do this now until the engine almost completely warms up. It did this slightly last winter, but only if the temperature dropped below 40°. During the summer it did not do it, but it was doing the stalling. Now the stalling is gone, but it is running very poorly when the engine is cold if the temperature drops below 60°, which is has been doing for the past few mornings, since summer is winding down. I have a feeling it is only going to get worse and worse.

Does it sound like this could also be a vacuum issue causing this as well, or could something else be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

Based on what you wrote, I would look at the vacuum lines. There are many of them, the idle air bypass hoses to the injectors, the injector seals and the rubber donuts between the two manifold sections, upper and lower plenum.

How're the timing chain and guide rails?

BTW, I have a similar problem on my 420SEL which starts poorly and runs poorly, at first. I'm going to replace all the vacuum bits and pieces.

See sections 7.3 and 14.

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC2/program/engine_380SEL.htm

Page 4 has a good picture

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC2/program/Engine/107/M116_38/14-450.pdf

I'll keep you posted on my progress. I'm going to check my O2 sensor first by measuring it's output. If it's bad, I'll go for the generic 3 wire version and solder it in. Once that's done, I'll tackle the vacuum lines.

I have to get it in for a safety inspection first. It should pass with flying colors.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Thanks for the reply! I will check those lines tomorrow. Will I need to remove the air cleaner to gain access? If so, will the car run with the cleaner removed? I know some cars will not. I also forgot to mention that the car starts very easily- even first thing in the morning. It starts only after a second of cranking.

About the timing chain/rails.... did you ask that because that can be the potential problem? I hope not, because to tell you the truth, I have no idea when they were changed. The car has 267K miles on it and the guy I bought it from when it had 250K had no idea either. He had bought it from the original owners when it had 200K and he said he never asked them and he had never changed them. I only paid $1000 for the car and it is so old, I have no intentions of changing them either. If that is the cause, I will probably sell it and let someone use it as a parts car- which would be a shame, because the body is still dent and rust free and the interior is in excellent shape. Only negative is dead paint. Also, the transmission and rear end are both in perfect working order and EVERYTHING except the cruise control, auxillary fan and A/C work perfectly... all lighting, gauges and windows, heating, sunroof, etc. work fine.

Hopefully it is as simple as a broken vacuum line. If not, I guess off to the junk yard she goes....
Thanks again!

I checked those links and hopefully all of that on top of the engine does not have to be removed, or I will sell the car. I would not even know where to start... not mechanically inclined and would not want to spend alot of money on it, since it is so old. I will check for air leaks though with that brake cleaner fluid.

Thanks again!

Would worn timing chain and rails cause the miss and "choking" when cold? Surely someone here knows more about these cars. I am getting ready to junk this one. Even the local repair shops act dumb. At least one I called.

Oh.... also seems like it is getting low on power. Hopefully vac leak will also cause that.