M110 engine, Valve guide-seals poss without removing head??
 

Picked up a great W114 on Friday for a song....:eek:

Driving it home, I noticed when pulling away at lights or after decending a hill when powering up, a nice blue plume of oil-smoke for a couple of seconds which then clears to no smoke Doesnt appear to smoke on idle unless its been idling for some minutes when it slowly creeps in, and then on revving we get a nice cloud which clears if revs are held up....:D

Hoping its just the guide-seals......(Gotta start somewhere!....):stupid:

Compressions are pretty good, with little or no 'blow-by' --at least the compression rings are fairly good....

Is it possible to change the guide-seals without head removal from the engine? Not seen or worked on the M110.xx engines before, Usually I stick to Diesel types....

Any help appreciated....:laugh2:

Answer:
 

Hmmm.
The last three I did required new guides and seals, a very high level DIY.

How many kilometers on the vehicle?



Have a great day.

In my experience on the M110 you will usually have to do 1 or 2 guides, if not all, at the same time as the seals, which requires head removal. If the guides do turn out to be OK, I believe you should be able to do the seals with the head on, though I can't speak from experience.

it can be done ,you need special tools and it's a pain.if it doesn't need to get right back on road,pull the head---95% chance at least two valve guides will need replacing.

M110 valve-job...
 

The engine in the W114 has 147K miles on it....

When I first picked the car up, I drove it up to where I work, around 6 miles. It smoked all the time, really quite badly....:mad:

Saturday, I drove it home from work, around 20 miles and the smoke got much less, only when pulling away etc, and not when 'just cruising'...
The oil looks very (Too) clean, but smells strongly of petrol. I know this car hasnt been on the road properly since 1998. Doubt if the oil has been changed since then either Oil pressure is pegged at everything but idle where it runs at about 25 PSI....I'll change the oil and filter see what happens first after a nice long run to a test-centre say, 30 miles away-I'll then see what else needs fixing to make it fully road legal.....:rolleyes:

IF there are major issues like guides, guess I could use the rather good engine out of my W123 wagon as a replacement or even just the head complete...That one doesnt smoke at all-(Had a very pampered life according to its service-record....Mobil 1 most of its life....)
-Going to remove it from the W123 anyway to put in OM-617 Diesel to use as my daily car to replace that hideous BMW...:cool:

The W123 has 100,324 miles on it, but is 'noisier' than the W114 engine, especially from the cam-box area...Maybe just needs a valve clearance job, It apparently has had a cam-chain fitted not long ago, (Looks to be new from the view through the oil filler-cap hole) Not sure why at such a low milage though...:confused:

Would like to keep the W114 as original as possible as everything else with it is at the moment...Even has its original Blaupunkt radio that works....:D and a great 'Custard-Yellow' paint-job:eek:

Guess I'll Pop the lid on the W123 M110 and take a peek at the way its made in there, (and to find out why its noisier than the W114 M110) See if its possible to chuck some seals in. I dont plan to put the W114 on the road till spring/summer next year anyway, so no real rush for it...:cool:

To do the seals, you have to remove the cam box, and you are most of the way to removing the head. At 147K it would be time for guides anyway.

A noisy valve train in a M110 requires a close look at the cam lobes, which wear very quickly if the valve adjustment is off.

From my description of the fault, and knowing these engines better than me, How likely is it that the fault is seals and guides, as opposed to ring/piston/bore wear?

Are they prone to this sort of trouble? Any other daft things that I could check out??

Any comments appreciated......

Two that I have done had pretty much the same symptoms, and a complete head rebuild fixed the smoke. The rings and cylinders seem quite durable.

An easy way to tell is to run a compression test, then put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and re-test. If your "wet" reading is 30% more than the "dry", then you have ring/cylinder problems.

These engines are prone to oil leaks around the cam box - head seal, and at the front crank seal, and the carbs can have problems.

Yes, check out the vacuum booster pump carefully - on my '75 280C the diaghram had a hole in it and it caused the car to smoke profusely when going downhill. I removed the pump and installed a plate in it's place, the vacuum from the engine is plenty to operate all systems. That was close to 10 yrs ago, no problems since.

Now you come to mention it, the brakes are ....'strange'...:silly:

First off, pedal travel normal brakes working fine, maybe pulling to kerb just slightly....:)

After a little while, pedal travel excessive, but firm pressure, and work to stop car quite easily, but with this excess travel....(I thought old fluid with moisture present causing an 'air-lock type' issue, but the pedal after its excess travel is not 'spongy'....):eek:

After a little more driving, brakes Normal..... (guess its not the fluid....):dizzy2:

I was going to overhaul the brakes anyway as a matter of course...

Is there an 'extra vac-pump' similar to the diesel??:idea2:

Just had a look....

No such luck in my case....

The brake booser-servo semi-rigid plastic vac-pipe goes straight to the 'plenum' via an NRV....

Doesnt go anywhere near the front of the motor:(

Maybe it was only an American thing with this model to have the extra booster pump;)

Weird - yes, it's possible yours lacks the hose due to being a Euro version. Too bad - that would've been a simple fix!

I don't know that lack of oil changes can cause the guides to come loose, often they just rattle out of there...