98 e320 key wont turn at all
 

this car is weird, i put the key in and some times the lights flash, but key will not turn at all.
Any suggestions??

Thanks

May sound like I'm fooling with you, but try another key.
Gilly

yeah, could be the key, could be the car...try another key to narrow it down. If the other key doesn't work prepare yourself for what could be a costly and frustrating experience. We had one (an '00 or '01) that wouldn't accept a key and could not be taken out of "Park" and was in our garage. The dealership sent a flatbed to drag it out with the rear wheels locked against the parking pawl.

Then they had to order the part which was some main CPU that had to be programmed at MB and shipped out special which took about a week. Fortunately it was all under warranty but I suspect yours isn't. I don't know what it WOULD have cost but I can only imagine it was well into the 4 digits.

the MB roadside guy just came out, said it is probably the key,
Is there anywhere other than the dealer you can get a key for this car?

May not help, but before spending $2-300 on a new key I'd put a new $5 battery in the one you've got.

A new key will have to come from the dealer.

already tried the new batteries in the key ... still no good.

key
 

Try moving the steering wheel left and right as you turn the key, can hurt to try.

The battery will not fix this, the transponders in the key don't use the battery, just the remote unlocking stuff does.
In regards to the comment made about wiggling the steering wheel, there is some creedence to this, but not in the way you'd think:
When you insert the key, after the security part has happened (fixed and rolling codes checked between key and ignition switch) and the start is "approved", the next thing that happens is the steering wheel lock (ESL) is commanded to unlock the wheel (withdraws the locking pin). Once this has been physically confirmed by the ESL, the ESL sends a signal to the ignition switch "steering wheel is unlocked", then and only then is the key allowed to turn in the lock. It takes less than a second, hardly noticeable.
So yes, if the steering wheel is jammed hard one way or the other (just like on any other car where the steering wheel is moved around to get the lock to release), you may need to try moving the wheel to get the key to turn, but only because the ESL isn't returning the signal that the steering wheel is physically unlocked. It won't send the signal unless it senses the locking bolt is actually retracted, and the steering wheel being jammed can prevent the bolt from retracting.
I assume you are sure the car battery is good?
The dealer is the only place authorized to order a key. eBay keys DO NOT work, don't buy it there, you will be wasting your money.
NHdoc there is a small window in the shifter which is opened and a thin rod (even a pen) can be inserted to release the shifter to put it in neutral, there was no need to drag the tires.
Gilly

OH, so in reference to the key not turning, see if the steering wheel is being unlocked when you insert the key. Most people who have had a Smartkey car are familiar with the "rrr" noise the ESL makes when unlocking the wheel. This will sort of be the "Y" in the road to decide what to do next.
Gilly

Both I and the tow guy knew about that interlock over-ride but the way the computer had failed it prevented the interlock over-ride from releasing, we both tried to over-ride it. There was no way the car was moving out of the garage unless it got dragged out...I wouldn't have ever let them do it if I thought we could find a way to over-ride that but it just didn't work.

I only paid $122.50 at MB Carlsbad a year ago (plus about $20 if steel key is needed). The hard part to swallow (I had to) is that if you were down to just one good key, and it breaks (edit added here) you really need to purchase 2 new Smartkeys. Do it quick, like a bandage, have a couple beers, and it doesn't hurt quite so much :rolleyes:

If you are down to one good one, what's the reasoning for needing to buy 2?
Gilly

Well, hmmm, the over ride is mechanical and I can't figure how the computer failing can prevent the interlock from working. Either missing the mark or maybe the car was angled up or down which made it hard to pull the lever out of park? Any idea what exactly they replaced to fix it, was it the engine control module? MB is usually pretty fast getting things shipped when a car is "down".
Gilly

Well, it's been a few years now so I don't recall what part they changed, I do remember that after they did it we had to have the other key re-initialized in the car using some series of steps which at first they thought I'd have to return to the shop for but they were later able to tell me over the phone how to do it.

I have to say if my dealership (HOLLOWAY in Manchester, NH) is typical of the type of service MB gives then I can't see why anyone would buy another new MB. This service department is the worst, though the parts department is excellent.

The only car I have serviced there is our new one (the '04 now) that is always under warranty and all my old ones I fix myself. Now I am battling with a transmission problem that twice they have "fixed" by reprogramming the shift adaptation but today it only lasted about 30 minutes before it starting bucking and shaking again. Tomorrow it goes back and I am getting a loaner and I told them to keep it as long as it takes to find out the problem but I don't want it back again with the same "cure" that just covers up the underlying problem.

It really doesn't matter to me now since the lease on this '04 is up next year and I have already decided it will be our last new MB. When they stopped paying for routine service on the new cars I decided to switch brands.

I'll probably keep my '98 and the oldsters but we are giving up on MB for new cars...next one will probably be a Lexus or Infinity.

I should have worded my last post better. If I have only one good Smartkey, and that key goes bad, then I feel buying 2 new Smartkeys is prudent.

Paul
98 E300