No hibeams in '98 W210: Combination switch?
 

The hibeams in my 1998 E300DT suddenly stopped working but every other function activated by the combination switch still works fine - even the momentary hibeams when you pull the switch towards you. I'd think the turn signals would wear out first on this switch.

Is this a known premature failure with the combination switch on the W210 chassis? Can the contacts in the switch be accessed such that I can fix it or is it sealed?

YES that is a common failure on the 210 chassis.

TO test that, simply check the fuses for power with a voltmeter with the hi-beams on.

Combo switch failure on the W210 is pretty common.

Which ever way this turns out for you, just be forewarned that if you do end up replacing the combo switch yourself (pretty easy job) be sure you disconnect the battery before performing the work, and ABSOLUTELY DO NOT re-connect it until you are 100% finished with the job.

I hooked my battery up midway through the job in order to help position the telescoping column, and unknowingly activated the SRS light (battery connected + no airbag present = SRS light). Only a dealer or an indy with the expensive computer can reset that light. OBDII scanner won't do it.

I figure I could save you a hundred bucks if you end up going that route...

Fixed!
 

Well, my state inspection sticker is about to expire so I had to get my hi-beams working or buy a new combination switch. Thanks to this forum and this DIY article, the combinations switch is fairly easy to access on a W210 chassis. I was successful in removing the steering wheel without a helper (check out the first attachment image). The 3' breaker bar was practically a necessity as that bolt is really torqued down + blue Loctite.

After a little bit of examination, it appears that the hi-beam contacts are accessible (see last 2 attachment images). The resistance between the non-momentary contacts was measuring over 500 Ohms which is too high I guess. After a bit of cleaning/scraping with a small gauge wire and slightly bending the lower copper tab towards the mating contact, the resistance is now less than 10 Ohms which is enough for my multimeter to chirp when put in diode tester mode.

Reassembly was a breeze and it lo-and-behold, non-momentary hi-beams are back! Aside from the hi-beams, the rest of the switch contacts are pretty well concealed inside, so issues with any other functions would probably mean a new combination switch.