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			#16  
			
			
			
			
			
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				Don't discount the cap/rotor.
			 
			
			John, I had a similar problem with my '90 300E.  I had installed cap, rotor, wires and plugs 10k ago.  Problem was I mis-fitted the distributor cap o-ring and it caused an improper clearance between the rotor and cap which caused massive arcing.  It only did it after a long drive and was not noticeable at speed.  Symptoms sounded like yours.  Check out the thread "300E misfire when hot" last posted around 12/6. Chuck. | 
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			#17  
			
			
			
			
			
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			http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=171798 Here's my saga. Fixed by a cap and rotor after all else failed. | 
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			#18  
			
			
			
			
			
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			well i did my cap and rotor about 3 or 4 k ago, but that could be it. i remember putting the o ring i ordered in the groove but i dont remember any other o ring in there, tomorrow i will check that if the coil does not fix the problem. i had read that thread a while ago befoe i began this one and it sounded similar so its certainly possible. thanks again for all the help guys ill post tomorrow and let you all know what i find
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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			#19  
			
			
			
			
			
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			You might also look for vacuum leaks. The idle air bypass hoses may need to be replaced. The rubber boot under the fuel distributor and throttle may be bad. The injector seals may be bad. It's an '87 after all.  Check the following links: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103VacuumLeak http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=84 Just a thought. 
				__________________ Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. | 
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			#20  
			
			
			
			
			
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			tried replaced coil to no avail, but i plan to check out chucks suggestion tomorrow or later today if i have time, thanks for the help
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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			#21  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Could be crankshalt sensor,that it screws up when it gets hot,also a big possability a coolant temp sensor. .
			
				
			
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			#22  
			
			
			
			
			
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			so the things so far i know its not... coil transmission 02 sensor KE unit plug wires things it still could be ignition module still haven't checked the cap and rotor cats? vacuum leak crank sensor 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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			#23  
			
			
			
			
			
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			interesting, cap and rotor would have been the first thing I would have checked just because you can and it's fairly easy. When were they done last? Jonathan 
				__________________ Blue Ridge Mercedes Jonathan Hodgman http://www.blueridgemb.com/ Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning. Follow Us on Facebook! Located in the Atlanta area Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines. Mercedes Repair Atlanta | 
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			#24  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Again....make sure your gas tank is venting.
			
				
			
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			#25  
			
			
			
			
			
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			My 560 front cat partially disintergated and rotated in its housing blocking gas blow.  Systoms are different from yours.  Highway is tough because the gases can't get through the blockage.  stop and go was fine acceleration was gone.  No back fireing or stuttering.  Just no top end.
			
				
			
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			#26  
			
			
			
			
			
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			the reason i have delayed in checking it is it was done less than 3k ago about 6 months, and the problem didnt start until recently, but its next on my list over the weekend. how do i check the fuel tank vent? thats what i was wondering about on the cat, so maybe i can cross that off the list since the car passed emissions with flying colors when i got it and that sort of thing doesnt just happen all of a sudden does it? next stop, cap and rotor
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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			#27  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Try this: Unplug the EHA and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away, that eliminates spark issues and the mechanical part of the FI. My daughters '87 300E had random bog and rich running issues. It's running fine w/o the EHA plugged in. Now to find the time to chase what's actually causing this. | 
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			#28  
			
			
			
			
			
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			unplugged the EHA and no difference, took the cap and rotor off and this could very well be the problem, theres some green stuff around the edges, and sure enough when i looked back behind the orange o ring i saw another black o ring that had hardened... any thoughts?
			
				
			
		 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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			#29  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Sounds exactly like what I had.  It looks like we both made the same mistake when replacing the cap and rotor. There should be one o-ring around the base of the "backing plate" (where you found the black one).  I had installed the new orange o-ring and left the old, black one in place which apparently caused improper clearance inside the cap.  I put new parts in and so far it runs great.   Chuck. | 
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			#30  
			
			
			
			
			
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			im awaiting the parts now, so much for 3 day shipping...  the main thing is how long after you installed these parts did the problem start?? hopefully this will resolve a problem that has basically made the car un-drive able. 
				__________________ E30 B25 126.036 123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold) 124.030-Greyhound (sold) 124.030-Schnauzer (sold) DERP DERP | 
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