94 E320 ACC Fan Irratic After Evaporator Replacement
 

Well, I just completed the fun job of replacing the evaporator. :) Thanks to all the notes I did it in 3-4 days working 6-8 hours a day. :dizzy2: The only non-functioning piece before the job was the A/C (of course).

After finishing the job, I noticed that the ignition switch was much harder to turn all the way CCW (position 0). Note: ignition switch was not removed for this job since I lowered the steering column. And the gear shifter lock would not dislodge (yes brake depressed and ign on). I have gotten around this by lossening the cable to the lock and manually disengaging by pulling the cable and tensioning the wire everytime I want out of park.

The other issue is my fan. With the car cranked and the ACC off, I can turn the fan on by starting on HI fan setting. But it seems to slow down over time. Turn to Auto and the fan barely turns like it is on stage 1. I turn the ignition off to investigate w/o burning gas and turn only to the "on" (position 2) all functions as it should. Meaning that I can hear the fan ramp up through the stages as I turn the dial futher away from ambient temperature.

It should be noted also that the flaps seem to work just fine. If I turn on defrost, windshield vents are open. If I turn the EC button on and dial to 85, heater vents open. Turn dial to 65 and center vents open and temperatur begins to cool. Temperature doesn't seem to be as hot either when the car is cranked, but more heat is delivered when it is shut off and in position 2. Seems like modulating valve is not operating as it should.

Lastly, my SRS light will come on for about 5-10 seconds and go off early in my commute.

I have read some of the archieves, but I thought I might have a bit of a special case here, so please help me out if you want to chime in. Some of the things I gathered from the posts are:

1) Ignition switch - could explain shifter problem - maybe the SRS :confused:

2) Fan Regulator - doubt it since all functions normally when car is not running

3) ?????

There may be a reason why they tell you to remove ignition switch that I was not aware of. I did reconnect the transmission lock cable to the switch.


Olin Brimberry

Bump for some help or response to confirm the diagnosis

I don't know of a reason why not removing the ignition switch would have harmed it. The biggest danger, seems like, would have been to the side of the heater box, but you did lower the column so that should have been OK.

Did you get this figured out?

About the ignition switch:

If I remember correctly, there are two cables that run from the shifter mechanism to the ignition switch. It might be possible that when you reassembled everything you changed the routing/position of these cables slightly. Again, if I remember correctly, the cables are routed on the left side of the center console piece either on the inside or outside of the left air duct that feeds heat to the back seat foot area. A change in the orientation of this cable might explain you ignition switch stiffness.