'94 E320 M104 cylinder head R&R QUESTIONS
 

Well the time has come for me to pull the cylinder head on my wifes E320 gasser to replace the head gasket. It runs swell but it has the famous oil seep at the back side between cyl 5 and 6. I saw a while back a GOOD step by step R&R write up but I searched tonight and couldn't find it. I found a write up by Steve Brotherton.
The engine only has 115,000 miles on it. Is there anything else that I need to replace while I am there? I have checked the engine wire loom and it ALL appears to be good and supple. I had a guy with a Volvo that had that same wire insulation problem.
ANY and ALL help and advice is appreciated. Chris

Clean out the EGR pipe or replace it with the newer larger diameter version.

Headgasket
 

On the drivers side there are two rubber hoses,the bigger one attaches to the bottom of the intake manifold and goes to the A/C compressor mount.
The other hose is smaller and just behind the large one,Make sure they are both removed and don't snag when removing the head as they can and often do break off the plastic nipples they are attached to.
Mike

Here ya go:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=147315&highlight=head+gasket

Also, the comment above about replacing the metal pipe that goes from the egr valve to the intake manifold is a good one.

This "hot inlet pipe" is known to gum up with carbon at the intake manifold side.

The newer pipes are a wider diameter as well as sticking further inside the intake manifold to prevent this carbon build up.

The hose part numbers are 104 094 35 82 and 104 094 36 82. The ones you have are probably very brittle and will crack/break when you remove them. If you do break the plastic nipple(s) off the bottom of the resonance manifold, you can glue them back on very easily with Loctite Super Glue Gel Control. I've done two of these--on the second one I was able to avoid breaking the nipple(s) by sawing through the brittle hose with an old hacksaw blade prior to moving the manifold.

Also, when you reinstall the upper timing chain cover, put the cover on first, then insert the drivers side chain guide retaining pin through the access hole in the cover. If you don't do this, it is almost impossible to install the cover without "rolling" the U shaped seal.

Don't reinstall the tensioner pin without "zeroing" the internal ratchet.

Make sure the intake cam sprocket is correctly oriented relative to the cam when you lay the chain back on it. (remember, this engine has variable intake timing)

J. M. van Swaay

Thanks Guys!! Every job usually has little "EXTRAS" that should be done to make the job last. I have a saying that I try to follow on my car work, "Do it once, Do it right, Don't have to do it again".
What about the chain guides? Should they be replaced?

I just did this job a few months back and I used this article for reference:
https://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic100345.html

One problem I had was the tendency of the timing cover seal (the u shaped one) to curl as the head is placed back on. I finally used some of the MB sealant under the seal, and let it set up with a weight on it. Head then went on fine. No leaks yet!

As you can see in the picture below, I left the manifolds on.

John

John, Two questions... Have you had the "bad wire loom" issue with yours? How much does the head weigh with the manafolds attached? Thanks for the tip on the "U" shaped gasket. Chris

If your engine wiring harness is original it needs to be replaced.

They are all bad.

When you handle the wiring harness when moving it out of the way, it usually causes all of the problems you read about.

Chris:

Yes, I replaced my harness (and lots more) as part of this job. It had cracked insulation in a number of areas and I was working to get rid of the check engine light, which had been on for about the last 2 years!

The head is heavy with the manifolds on. I used a bar across the arms of my hoist to lift it off. Without the car hoist, I would use an engine hoist to lift it off.
John