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-   -   1995 W140 Blower Motor issues (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=177520)

Eric Pratt 01-29-2007 09:39 PM

Feeder plug
 
I am looking at the plug that goes into the regulator
There are 4 wires:
Red
Brown
Red/Grey
Green/Grey

Red and Brown reads 14.27 v
Red and Green/Grey reads 7.49 v

Did I do this right?

Eric Pratt 01-29-2007 09:41 PM

Blower reg IS mounted on the blower
 
This is "Blowing" my mind!

JimF 01-29-2007 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Pratt (Post 1404154)
This is "Blowing" my mind!

Good one! :wacko:

Just to make sure:
1) do you have the blower mounted in the car??
2) Is the blower reg mounted to the blower??

Eric Pratt 01-29-2007 10:23 PM

Blower is mounted in car / regulator is mounted on blower
 
what next?

Arthur Dalton 01-29-2007 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimF (Post 1404065)
True, but it's just one wire and odds are that the blower control voltage is there.

I wonder about the blower *and* the reg. . . . maybe the blower is not installed? Or the blower reg is not mounted on the blower?? That would be too funny. :wacko:

It's not a "switched ground ckt" but rather a transistor action switch. Others may be confused thinking it's a "switch".

You know that and I know that.... but I am trying to get to the basics without getting technical on the guy.
OK??

For testing purposes, I want him to know the circuit is controlled/switched ON the GROUND side so he understsnds why the blower works when he grounds the blu wire.
I will let you take it ...

Eric Pratt 01-29-2007 10:45 PM

Instead of arguing amongst yourselves- does anyone have a solution to my problem?
 
It is 19 degrees and snowing here.....

Eric Pratt 01-29-2007 10:57 PM

Could my new blower reg be bad?
 
How do I test the new blower control unit? Everything seems to be okay until the wires go into that little critter

JimF 01-29-2007 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton (Post 1404243)
For testing purposes, I want him to know the circuit is controlled/switched ON the GROUND side so he understsnds why the blower works when he grounds the blu wire.

Actually, the 'switch' is an "analog" variety that is an variable attenuator with the regulator itself as the 'heat-sink'. Energy is either pass through (high speed) or lost in the regulator as heat (low speed).

Hope that's not too technical . . . but it's how the blower reg really operates.

Ok, Eric . . . if all is connected and you have verified that voltage from the N22 unit (in the dash), the blower should be on. The higher you set the voltage from N22, the faster the blower should run.

If all is connected properly, sounds like the reg is bad??

Eric Pratt 01-30-2007 02:37 AM

Blower control unit is one week old
 
It is a KAE Blower Control unit purchased from ******** AZ. Instructions say that "the surface of the blower control unit is pretreated with a very efficient proper amount of copper=heat=agent"

It seems like blower regulator is grounded, motor will spin when everything connected and I ground the blue wire. If I unbolt the blower regulator from the blower and ground the blue wire, nothing happens.

Any ideas????

JimF 01-30-2007 10:31 AM

The "stuff" on the bottom is silicone grease; it's a heat conductive paste that gives heat transfer from the reg to the blower's frame. Without this grease the reg will fail quickly.

If the reg was 'operated' without being attached to the blower, it could blow immediately. If it was 'touched' to the blower's frame and run, it could blow.

Since there's a 'connector' for the wires, it's normally a "plug-and-play", especially if the blower worked before this. The reg is a normally high failure rate item b/c of the power it has to dissipate.

I threw an old blower/reg assy out last week; wish I had it to verify what color wire goes where. Other than that, it should 'work'!

Eric Pratt 01-30-2007 10:09 PM

Is there any way to test the blower regulator
 
before I order another one?

JimF 01-30-2007 10:37 PM

There probably is a piece of test gear that MB uses but I'm not familiar with it.

I have a "transistor" tester that would tell the basics but it's never been needed since the failure is exactly what you experienced; blower 'barely' operates.

How about your inde?? Maybe he can test it on a similiar car? Actually, you can test it on most S class cars from 1992 to 1999.

murf 08-04-2008 10:34 PM

Same problem
 
First of all, thanks JimF for your information on A/C checks. They are very informative.
I have a 1995 S320 with 180,000 miles bought used that the blower would slow without cause and finally stopped blowing all together.
All sensor readings appear normal with step 8 going from 8 to 60 with fan speed dial min to max.
There were a couple DTC but I don't know from when they occured, I deleted all back to E000 to see if new codes logged.
It stayed on E000 for 3 days now. Did not show E001. Don't know if that is a problem or not.
I believe next step would be to check red to black and yellow to black voltages on reg.
Any suggestions welcomed.
Thanks again
Murf

coachcisco 08-30-2008 10:51 PM

I am also having this problem on my 96' S320. I checked with my volt meter using my red lead on the blue wire and my black grounded on th frame. I got between 3 and 4 volts with the car running or off. I must be doin something wrong.

Roadster49 06-14-2009 02:56 PM

Parked my 97 S500 for 3 days at airport, AC was working.
When I started car the fan was not working. Prior to that the fan seemed to slow from time to time. Since it happened so suddenly I am thinking it is the regulator. How do I test fan?
Thanks


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