SSS (Sudden Stalling) Factsheet
 

Hi Guys,
I'm pretty new to this forum, wifey car suffer from the SSS(Sudden Stalling Sydrome). So I come to this forum to see if I can find solution to this problem.

I do some search in the archive for the last 2 weeks I guess, and ask questions to others members. Believe me I learn something in the process.

-first there is a lot a MB suffering from the SSS it seem that all model suffer from that SSS at one time or another.

- Second trying to troubleshoot the problem from post on this forum could be difficult at least. Incomplet info, no car model, no engine model, etc.

-Third when digging the archive I find this interesting SHOP NOTE that was send to the Mercedes dealers few years ago:

SHOP NOTE:
"(The owner states that the engine dies intermittently when coming to a stop. (Maintenance note: This problem has been around for a long time. Mercedes-Benz has published several bulletins about the problem. See Diagnostic Directory 07.3-88043/30T93031/07.3-91043/54-89101/AF07.32-U-6701A & TIN 07.3/6. There are about a dozen things that can cause the engine to die. We normally see on about 3 or 4 cause all the problems. Sometimes there can be more than one of these things acting up at the same time. That's when it gets hard to find the problem. The components that cause the most trouble are the fuel pump relay, the flywheel position sensor, and the over load protection relay. We have also seen the Hall Effect sensor, the tachometer, the distributor cap and rotor, the ignition coil, the oxygen sensor, the ignition module (see D/D 15-89041), the idle air valve, temp sensor, wiring harness, EHA valve & the electronic accelerator (see D/D 30T93031). We try and replace the most common things first and if that doesn't take care of it then we get into the more unusual components.)"

Any of you guys working for Mercedes could find those bulletins and share it with all of us. I think those bulletins will help us troubleshoot our SSS. Those bulletins should be public domain stuff since Sudden Stalling is a SAFETY ISSUE.

I think as a group we can built experience on troubleshooting the SSS what we need is a factsheet so each time one of us find the problem of is Sudden Stalling car he will fill the factsheet and posted under this thread.

With the time there will be more and more solved SSS and this will help others to quickly isolate the gremlin(s) in their car and put them in the locked glove box.

I put one of my gremlin in the glove box yesterday, let see if he have some friends under the hood if not I will report here in a few days. No sudden stalling this morning, but it was only -8C, my gremlin go out most of the time at -10C and colder so let wait.

My next post will be the factsheet I'm talking about.

Again if you get those bulletins please PM me or publish it under this thread.

Thanks for your time
Max
JD Combines Specialist

Factsheet for SSS
 

Ok, here's the factsheet, if you have solved a Sudden Stalling problem lately please take the time to fill out the form.
Just copy it in your word processor, fill it and post it back here under this thread.

If you think I forgot something please let me know.

Thanks

Max
JD Combines Specialist.
-------------------------------------------------------------
SSS factsheet:

Car model:
Year:
Chassis Model:
Engine Model:
Mileage(km/miles):
State:
Last tune-up (km/miles):
-Spark plug:
-S/P Cable:
-Rotor:
-Cap:

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: ( this when your release the accelerator and put your feet on the brake pedal)

- Coasting: (this is when you just release the accelerator a bit to keep your speed)

- Crusing: (this is when you run at normal speed on the highway)


- Acceleration: ( this is when you accelerate to pass another vehicule or any other type of acceleration)

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge:
-Oil pressure gauge:
-Tachometer:
-Fuel Gauge:
-Alternator Gauge:
-Abs light:
-Srs light:
-Engine light:
-O2 sensor light:
-all the other light :
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

-Random:
-Every day:
-At a certain outside temp(specify):

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light:
-Check Engine light:
-O2 Sensor Light:

Engine Temp when stalling:

Outside Temp when Stalling:

Fuel gauge reading:

Alternator's reading:

Ac/Heater on or off:

Heated seat on or off:

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

-Push the accelerator pedal down and it start after few turn
-Sometimes it start easy sometimes i have to wait 2 to 10 minutes
- I have to wait from 2 to 10 minutes before it will re-start

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM):
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM):

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after:

-The engine temp reach (specify Temp)
-I stop the engine for few :
-Minutes(specify):
-Hours (specify):

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall??

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall??

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem?

-Thread from this Forum(Specify, give the link)
-Mercedes shop manuel
-Personal procedure
-Guess work

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

-Ex: -The ovp, because my abs light was flickering

-The 4pin sensor because the spec. was no more then 130 ohms difference between the diag., mine have about 200 ohms difference

Ps. try to give as much spec as you can this will speed up the troubleshooting time for the other members since if they have the spec. it will be easier for them to check.

Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

-Ex: -Yes I replace the rotor and cap.
- Yes I replace some of the light in the dashboard

How long since you fixe-it?

-A day
-A week
-A month
-More then a month
Ps. Please keep your report update until it reach more then a month.

Comment:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You forgot the most important part.
Year & model of car & what engine.

Hi Manny,

Sorry, my word processor seams to have gremlin too.
LOL

Is it ok now???

Max

yes that you forgot.most of the time when SSS occurs at very low temps it can be pinned down to not enough fuel.

-------------------------------------------------------------
SSS factsheet:

Car model: C220
Year: 1995 1/2 (pre facelift)
Chassis Model: W202
Engine Model: no freaking clue
Mileage(km/miles): 218309
State: BC, Canada
Last tune-up (km/miles): I dunno? Odometer stopped before I bought the car
-Spark plug: OEM Bosch (yes it serviced 12 years, I should find the previous owner and kick his ass)
-S/P Cable: OEM Bosch
-Rotor: None - independent ignition
-Cap: None - independent ignition

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: ( this when your release the accelerator and put your feet on the brake pedal)

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Y
-Oil pressure gauge: N/A does not exist
-Tachometer: Y
-Fuel Gauge: Y
-Alternator Gauge: N/A does not exist
-Abs light: Y and on at the time of stall
-Srs light: Y
-Engine light: N
-O2 sensor light: N/A does not exist
-all the other light : Y
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

-Random: 3 out of 20 times at a stop light

-At a certain outside temp(specify): Cold near 0C.

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light: Y
-Check Engine light: N
-O2 Sensor Light: N/A does not exist

Engine Temp when stalling: 50C

Outside Temp when Stalling: 0C

Fuel gauge reading: 3/4

Alternator's reading: N/A does not exist

Ac/Heater on or off: ACC at 20C

Heated seat on or off: N/A does not exist

Does it Start easy after Stalling: N

-Push the accelerator pedal down and it start after few turn

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): 300-400RPM

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after:

-The engine temp reach (specify Temp): 80C

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem?

-Thread from this Forum(Specify, give the link)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=177616

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

- OVP, because there was no CEL, broken speedometer and ABS light was on. ABS was not functional at the time of the stall as well.

Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

-Installed K&N air filter. Don't think it is at all related.

How long since you fixe-it?

-A day

Comment:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OVP is a dodgy piece of equipment that should definitely be reinvented so this kind of embarrassment can be avoided. I stalled in front of another W202 and he honked at me....:behead:

No. It's still a mystery. ;)

manny
 

Hi Manny,

I hope you can see all the factsheet by now??:cool:

Max

Uh, I think he wants to know what kind of car YOU have. Looks like someone filled in a 95' C220, but I think that is someone elses automobile?

hk20000
 

Hi,
Thanks for taking the time to fill the factsheet for SSS.

The factsheet will give all of us quick reference.

Reading your factsheet was a learning experience now we know that a C220, chassis model 202, 1995 with a bad OVP relay will give the following symptom.

- ABS light on
-Speedometer not working
-Odometer not working
-Stalling at deceleration 3 time out of 20 at outside temperature around 0C.

Just one thing is it an error or ???

At the question :
Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light: N
-Check Engine light: N
-O2 Sensor Light: N/A does not exist

Does the ABS light was on when the car stall???
If yes please edit your factsheet and do the correction otherwise it might be confusing since your saying the ABS light was on all the time

By the way is it a made in Austria Ovp or made in Germany Ovp??

Again thanks for your time your factsheet will help others members to isolate their gremlin(s) and put them in the locked glove box faster.:D

Max

In the case of my 1989 300TE it was something as simple as replacing the Hall Effect Sensor.

Benz-LGB
 

Hi Benz-LGB

We know from the SHOP NOTE publish earlier on this thread that Hall Effect Sensor could be a cause for SSS.

What might be interesting if you still remenber what was the symptoms and what was the procedure you have follow to isolate the HES.

If you don't mind please take the time to fill the factsheet it will help all of us.

Thanks

Max

The car is a 1989 300TE with the M103 engine. It currently has 208k miles. The problem, however, began at around 185k miles.

The engine would cut out as the car was coasting to a stop (either the foot off the gas or actually braking). There were no warning signs, no shakes, no hesitation. Just a complete cutting out--as if someone had reached in grabbed the key and turned the engine off.

The car would the restart immediately.

Because of how the car stalled (no hesitation) we thought it was an electrical problem. That narrowed the search.

My mechanic tried replacing a few things (which needed replacing anyway at that age). Finally he hit upon the HES and bingo!

You can do a search under my screen name for more details.

Sudden Stalling Syndrome
 

My wife's 1992 300E just went through this same "SSS". It would stall in stop and go traffic as well as when she was taking a turn a little sharp at an intersection.
I replaced the Overload Protection Relay ($63) which is located behind the battery next to the computer module. It was a 5 minute repair and the problem is now remedied. The old one had water in it which was evidenced by condensation built up under the clear plastic double-fuse cover on same. This is a common problem. When/If you replace the module, put a bit of vaseline on the O-ring gasket for the double-fuse cover. Search the Parts icon on this website for a photo and ording information of this module.
It might also be:
Coil
Fuel Injectors
Wiring harness

But I'd begin with the least expensive and easiest remedy in your troubleshooting and go on from there.

Good luck. Ain't this fun? The Mercedes Benz dealer/service shop in Naples estimated $1400 to do this job for me. They said "wiring harness cracked and needs replacing". Bulls#$& !! There was nothing wrong with the harness. It is brand new and was replaced only 2 years ago. It is in perfect condition.
Watch out for scheisters.

do you still need a solution or proceedure to fix your problem? or has your problem been addressed?

willing to help you walk thru the sequence for checking why your MB stalls

Muhahahhaa that's exactly why someone sold me this car for cheap, they just think it's a 1400 repair that might not work but I got away with a perfectly healthy car for 75CAD worth of parts. :stupid:

What a Saga....
 

-Benz-LGB

I was reading your post on your 300TE 1989, SSS, more than an adventure ... here's the link to Benz-LGB thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=113327&highlight=Hall+Effect+Sensor

What a Saga!!! you track the problem from May 2002 up to what 2005 does it still ok now?? Or does it still suffer from the SSS??

As I mention on the beginning of this thread the goal here is to get as much info as we can from people like you who goes throught the SSS and find the solution.

With the symptoms and solution we have troubleshooting experience.

Reading your post I learned some difference between your Stalling cause by HES and the Stalling on the C220 1995 from Hk20000 cause by an OVP.

Here how I will check next time if the Stalling was cause by the Hall Effect Speed Sensor(HES) this is his real name in fact.
Reading my Shop manuel teach me that this sensor was a Vehicule Speed Signal and it is process by the control module.

-Symptoms:
- the engine stall on coasting and deceleration
- Abs light: Off
- Easy to restart after stalling
- The last one I learn it from you. You mention in one of your post.

"" On the way home I took the car to a deserted country road near where I live. I tested the car by accelerating hard (it accelerates like a rocket) and then coming to an abrupt stop. No stalling. ""(from your post #8)

By doing an abrupt stop do we by-pass the Hall Effect Speed Sensor??? It look right to me for your year and MB model.
Time will tell if this way of checking it will work with different model.

Thanks again
Max

After the car began stalling (as described in my last post on that thread) again, I returned to Enrique.

It was at that point that we replaced the HES and (here it is where the supertitious part of me takes over) the car has been running fine ever since.

as an aside: I was so concerned with the stalling that we bought my daughter a Certified 2002 C320 sports wagon. What a wonderful wagon/car!

We kept the 300TE, which I drive on a regular basis. The W124 wagons are great cars.

Hope that the info on my thread helps you out!

SSS factsheet:

Car model: 230TE
Year: 1992
Chassis Model: W124
Engine Model: 111.960 ?
Mileage(km/miles): 285000
State: Norway
Last tune-up (km/miles):
-Spark plug: Bosch. changed 1 week ago
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: ?
-Cap: ?

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: ( this when your release the accelerator and put your feet on the brake pedal)

-Playing music: When playing music at maximum volume while idle the oil pressure gauge and rpm stalls. It has stopped two times by this, don't know if the high powered stereo is the problem..

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Y
-Oil pressure gauge: Y
-Tachometer: Y
-Fuel Gauge: Y
-Alternator Gauge: Does not exist
-Abs light: Y
-Srs light: Y
-Engine light: Does not exist
-O2 sensor light: Does not exist
-all the other light : Y
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

-Random: When driving in R then taking it to D the engine sometimes stops. And always when I'm first in a "traffic light" (dont know in english), the engine always stops, not if I'm second, lol. It stalls more and more often. But sometimes, like some few days it can be 100% healthy.

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light: Y - ABS light may come on or flikering without a stall too.

Engine Temp when stalling: 80-115

Outside Temp when Stalling: Does not exist

Fuel gauge reading: N

Alternator's reading: Does not exist

Ac/Heater on or off: On and Off

Heated seat on or off: Does not exist

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

-Sometimes it start easy sometimes i have to wait 2 minutes to 20 hours.

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM):
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): 350-1000

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after:

-I stop the engine for few :
-Hours (specify): 2

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem?

-Personal procedure
I'm not a mechanic, but I've tried something on my own.

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

-I'm going to replace the ovp after I read it could be that on this forum. And the ABS light is going on and off all the time.

-I've changed oil, spark plugs, battery, and had fuel condens remover but none of them fixed the problem.
All because I got tips to do it.

Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

- I also replaced the air filter with a Kingdragon sportfilter.

How long since you fixe-it?

-A week and more then a month

Comment:

I've had this stalling problem since january 2008, hope it will get fixed soon.
I can't trust my car.

If it only stalls when you are playing loud music it probably is related to low voltage caused by the high power stereo system. Check your voltage under these conditions to see if your voltage is low (less than 11 volts could cause a problem). If the voltage is low check the alternator voltage regulator brushes for wear and replace as required. You may also need to install a higher capacity alternator (some of the 70A alternators barely charge at idle) and battery to continue listening to your stereo at high volume at idle. Mark

SSS Update
 

Hi,

It's been a long time since my last post, I still have the Mb 190e with a 2.6 engine.

Last winter was a mild one -14C° at the coolest so the Mb never stall.

This winter it is different story, we already have some -20C° on a few morning.

Yesterday it was -17C°, so I drive wifey to work... The car stall at the exact same convenience store as usual.

Wifey just get out of the whitout a word and walk the 150 meters to there work place :mad:, leaving me with a stalled car.

I get a coffee at the convenience store and wait about 20 minutes.

Get in the car, put the throttle to the floor, crank the engine, after 15 to 20 seconde the engine start. I notice I'm a little bit low on fuel, a quarter tank.

I get to the pump to fill the car, when I open the gaz cap I hear a big Woosh. This start me to think this not normal...

I get back home and pull out my old Mb shop manual to find out that the maximun vacuum on my gaz tank should be 1-16 mbar and the pressure should not exceed 30-50 mbar. A milibar is 14.5psi divided by 1000, to make short, nothing that you might hear or feel when you open your gaz cap.

This morning it was -20C°, before she leave I open the gaz cap and let him loose so the air could go in the tank.

Success :D, the mb never stall and wifey was smilling at me when she get out of the car.

I will test all the parts for the evaporative emission system and report to you the one that was in trouble.

I' m just curious how many of you guys with a SSS car have pressure or vacuum in your gaz tank???

Easy to test just open your gaz cap after you make a ride with the car if you hear a Woosh, you a problem with your evaporative emission system.

Take care

Max

Car model: 300TE
Year: 1988
Chassis Model: 124.090?
Engine Model: 124.090?
Mileage(km/miles): It was about 70,000
State: California
Last tune-up (km/miles): 65,000
-Spark plug: HD9CO
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: New Bosch (80k miles)
-Cap: New Bosch (80k miles)

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?
Would usually stall at lights, but it did also stall while driving regardless of acceleration/deceleration.

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?
Yes until it actually stalled then all came on.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:
-Random:


Resolved with new OVP. Never stalled again.

Code 7 and Code 27
 

Hi

I test all the components on the emission from the canister to the gaz tank.

I find out the air vent valve was frozen from condensation.

I just used a hair dryer to dry the condensation in the valve. Now it is working fine.

I do still have the SSS problem. It stall a few time since my last post.

I' m now working with a duty cycle tester and I built the code reader from Arthur Dalton design.

The first few code I retreive was more or less junk because I was testing some component and propably create does code.

Over the week-end after I erase the junk code the car stall again....

The code I retreive was code7 and code27

Code 7 = Rpm signal
Code 27 = Ignition contol unit

The procedure for both of this code seams to point tower the EZL(ignition control unit) as the problem. I do check all the component related to the EZL, crank sensor, temp sensor, coil, throttle valve switch, reference resistor and all wiring according to the procedure, they where all within the spec.

I do have one ground broken, the one from the intake manifold to the left of the wheelhouse under coil.

I took the decision to change the EZL ignition unit.

Will see tomorrow the weather forcast say -26 C°.:eek::eek:

Max

Code 7 and Code 27
 

Hi

Yep, it was -21C° this morning, no wind, thanks god....

The MB stall again this morning, nice weather to do test outside...

I still have the code 7 and 27 this morning, I test the crank sensor and it was within the spec. (985 ohms), plug it back and the car won't run.

I wait for 15 minutes or so and it just start back like nothing ever happens.

Here's my question:

What could cause this two code 7 and 27 other than the ignition module ?

This Stalling Syndrome start in winter 2006, never get worst or never get better since than.

Same sh***t different winter:mad::mad:

Max

The crank position sensor frequently passes the tests even when bad. I would replace it. Also, this is a previous post of mine citing my experince with this issue.

I recently had intermittent ignition problems with my 91 300TE (245K miles). The car first started missing intermittently when warm and then after 50 total miles of operation since the intermittent missing began refused to start warm (it had the audacity to leave me stranded for the first time in the 130K miles I have owned it. After the car cooled down it started and ran fine a couple of times until it finally wouldn't start cold. When attempting to start the car at this point the engine locked up (I wondered if the timing chain had slipped a tooth or two) and backfired through the intake manifold (indicating improper ignition timing) before it finally wouldn't "fire" anymore. Although I could hear the fuel pumps operating, I sprayed starting fluid into the air cleaner and cranked the car to make sure it was getting fuel. It didn't fire once. Next, I cranked the car with the coil wire disconnected from the distributor and observed a healthy spark firing at what seemed to be the appropriate intervals. I checked the distributor rotor and since the resistance of the rotor appeared too high I replaced it with a new rotor I had available. Still no start. I suspected the CPS or the EZL was the culprit. Since it was easy to check the status of the CPS, I measured the resistance (800 Ohms) and the cranking voltage (.4V AC) and found all to be within specs. Although I am not in the habit of throwing parts at a problem, since I needed to make sure the car was operable within a very short time period, I ordered a coil and CPS from an online source and purchased a used EZL from ebay. I installed the ignition coil first (the easiest to do) and the car wouldn't start. Next, I installed the used EZL (next easiest to install) and the car wouldn't start. Finally, I installed the CPS and the car started without problem. When I removed the old CPS I noticed that the seal around the wires at the sensor itself had failed and moisture/oil had penetrated the area. It is a mystery to me why the voltage and resistance measurements of the old CPS were within spec and the system appeared to have good spark but I guess that happens sometimes. Because of the backfires I did try to use my timing light to get an idea of the timing situation but because the light was not bright enough at cranking speed, I could not confirm that the timing was off (although I know it was due to the backfiring). I pose this question to the experts like stevebfl, etc.---How could a defective CPS presumably retard ignition timing to where the engine won't run yet still seemingly operate the EZL/ignition coil properly?

Mark

Hi Mark

I do some test on sunday with the crank sensor.

After I erase the code 7 and 27 I start the engine and let it run to engine temp and unplug the crank sensor from the EZl, the car stop.

Take my code reader and read the code from my diagnostic socket(16pin) no code at all, just code 1 (no fault).

I do that five time in a row just to make sure the ECU doesn't need more than 1 time fault to register.

Even after 5 times no code show:eek::eek:

After replacing the EZL monday I erase the 2 code. No code yesterday night.

After stalling this morning code 7 and 27 show up again.

The duty cycle with the new EZL is +/- 38% engine warm at idle and +/- 50 % at 2000rpm. A Little bit to rich...

To the expert here, which part most often cause code 7 and code 27

Max

i would suggest that you replace the crank position sensor and be done with your problem.for years these devices gave no trouble and then they started to fail when they got warmed up.if you then wait until they cool down the car will start again.i'm beginning to believe that beyond 15yrs is the magic time frame[surely they are still under warranty ha ha].

Crank sensor test
 

Hi

Thanks guy for your inside, it was -26C° this morning the cars do not stall but when she park the car the idle was surging from 500 to 1500 rpm.

I read the code, no code...

Anyone wanna do a test for me ??

If you have a 190e with a new crank sensor install or a non stalling 190e.

Here's the test:

Engine at 80C°

Key Off

Unplug the crank sensor from the ignition module, set your multimeter to ohms and test your sensor this should give you 800-1200ohms.

What's your reading ???

Then set your multimeter to AC volt connect the red wire in the midlle of your crank sensor cable and the black wire to the body ground.

Turn key on:

Reading ???

Crank the engine:

Reading ???

I just want to compare with mine before I order a new one.

Thanks for your help :)

Max

From JD

SSS factsheet:

Car model: 420sel
Year: 1987
Chassis Model: W126
Engine Model: 116?
Mileage(km/miles): 100230
State: NY
Last tune-up (km/miles):100000
-Spark plug: new
-S/P Cable: new
-Rotor: new
-Cap: new

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: Not sure, was at a stop sign rolled through and she calmly stalled but started right up.

- Coasting: At 20mph or so a smooth stall, pulled over and started up again

- Crusing: Same as above


- Acceleration: Same as above

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Yes
-Oil pressure gauge:Yes
-Tachometer:Yes
-Fuel Gauge:Yes
-Alternator Gauge:Yes
-Abs light:Yes
-Srs light:Yes
-Engine light:Yes
-O2 sensor light:Yes
-all the other light :Yes
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

She has only stalled on two consecutive days and day 3 no start, first day I rolled through a stop sign and she calmly and quietly shut off, I rolled to a stop and started her up as normal. Second day while doing about 20mph she simply and quietly shut down, pulled over and started as normal. NOW day 3 she is parked and will not start.

-At a certain outside temp(specify): winter in NY average 40 F

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?: No
Engine Temp when stalling: Normal

Outside Temp when Stalling: Winter in NY average 40 F

Fuel gauge reading: Normal

Alternator's reading: Not sure

Ac/Heater on or off: Off

Heated seat on or off: N/A

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

The first two (days) times it stalled she started as if normal, the next day (3) sitting over night she does not start

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM): Yes between 5-10
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): No, steady RPM, as above

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after: Does not apply

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N/A

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N/A

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem? This fact sheet

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

OVP, Voltage Regulator (had fluctuations and blew OVP fuse), cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, just had the time and the parts. This was all replaced prior to stalling.


Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

No

How long since you fixe-it?

Did not fix, still can’t get car to start.

Comment:

I did notice after stalling the battery light was on? Could this be a failed or failing alternator, I did have to place the voltage regulator (located on alternator) about 300 miles ago because she broke down on me and blew the OVP fuse. So I replaced the Voltage regulator and OVP. She ran fine up to now. Possible coil? Vacuum leak?

Your problem is fairly simple but expensive, you need a new engine wiring loom.

I fixed a stalling problem in my 300TE the other day, that was a bad connection to the Throttle Position Sensor.

I pulled out the fuel pump relay, wire jumped #7+8 and heard fuel flow and she started right up. I previously dismiss the fuel pump relay as the SSS cause because I replaced it last year. I guess I'll try the old fuel pump relay I still have that I replaced if not order a new one. Goes to show new parts go bad don't be so quick to ignore a step in diagnosis because you replaced that part already, like me..
JD