Replaced ETA? Check your Oil!! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Larry Delor · #1 04-14-2007, 08:06 PM

Hello everybody!

As some of you might have followed one of my threads, I had the pleasure (cough) of replacing the ETA on my '94 E420. Seeing as how others on the forum have ETA's (and harnesses with faulty insulation that MB knows nothing about), that may be subject to "failure", I thought I might pass this little tidbit on.

Check your oil!

I just happened to check mine for no particular reason, and about had my eyeballs pop out when I saw the oil on the dipstick about 4 inches above the full mark. (holy crap!) Rapidly going through scenarios in my mind as to how it got so high, I decided to test one theory and sniffed the oil. It smelled of fuel.
O.K, so how did it get there? I *think* it was during its repair time. During the period of several weeks, we attemped to start it several times (tried different modules until it was realized the rebuilt ETA was DOA) and had it running for a few - it ran very very rich...black smoke that would make your eyes water.
Well....apparently it ran SOOO rich that it must have somehow leaked past the pistons. Either the injectors came on with the ignition or during cranking and "running" so much fuel was injected that it had to leak past.

Whichever the case may be....Please, if you have ETA troubles or trouble with related systems (those that could decide inject copious amounts of fuel), check your oil level!

I haven't driven the car much, so I am hoping that minimal to no damage was done. I did notice that it idled a little rough, but wrote that off on a dirty MAF (which may still be the case - will post after I change oil, if there is any difference).

-Larry

stevebfl · #2 04-14-2007, 09:31 PM

Before you feel too confident in this, I would check your fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum hose off it and check for fuel. A bad diaphram will fill the engine with gas after shut down and run irregularly rich intermittantly while running!!!!

JimF · #3 04-15-2007, 12:42 PM

A contaminated MAF will also make the run extra rich. Mine was oil + silicone contaminated. Check Menu#4a for details. The good news is that you can clean it.

Larry Delor · #4 04-15-2007, 01:28 PM

I pulled off the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator.
There was a hint of liquid (gasoline) - should there be any of this there at all?
If not, you can guess where my next $125 is going to.

deanyel · #5 04-15-2007, 01:46 PM

There shouldn't be any gasoline there which means the diaphragm has been breached. What's going on with fuel pressure regulators - they were forty something dollars just a couple of years ago.

stevebfl · #6 04-15-2007, 02:06 PM

I'll wager this is a lot of your problems. Any trouble hot starting? Rough idle? There should be no gas there. A car can't get enough fuel through the injectors to fill the crankcase and still be running (it can happen from stuck injectors after shut-off or on a single cylinder that isn't running).

The fuel gets there from the defective regulator after shut off as the pressure is released through the bad diaphram. If one then tries to start it there is often a hard hot start condition.

Larry Delor · #7 04-15-2007, 05:43 PM

First: Thank you Steve for pointing me in the right direction!

I did have trouble with hot starting!
Rough idle? Well...not so much before the new ETA, immediate after it ran smooth...but just in the last few days, I noticed rough idling for the first 1-2 minutes.
I pulled off the hose today right after I turned off the engine and looked for fuel coming out of the regulator. At first, there was nothing...a good 2 minutes later, I started to see the beginning of a drop come out.

Since there is a vacuum there while running, does this mean the all this time it has been sucking extra fuel through there? (cyl. #7?) Or is this seepage just occuring during pressure abatement?

Either way, I am getting a new one asafp.

btw: Looks like I was a little alarmist with the oil level...I checked it again this morning, and it wasn't as overfull as yesterday (which admittedly, doesn't make any sense). I've been checking oil for many many years, and can say with certainty I didn't muck it up somehow. Why the level registered higher (or appeared to register higher) is now a mystery to me. The level is still above the high mark, but not by several inches...maybe 1/3 of an inch.
In case anybody wants to know, I use 15W40* in the cooler months. Next change I am going back to 20W50.

*I used it for three reasons 1. it was on sale $6/gal., 2. it's the same oil I use in the 300D in the cooler months, 3. I figure it's ok to use in both until summer time (20W50)

DRICHFL · #8 04-17-2007, 09:06 AM

Larry,
I suggest replacing the fuel pressure regulator. (WOW I just looked up the price of those things!!! When I replaced my fpr it did not seem to cost that much.)

Anyway, before you replace the fpr do a fuel line pressure check. This will give you an idea whether or not the fuel pumps are building enough pressure to the fuel rail. If the fuel injector rail is not holding pressure it is possible because the fpr is not working properly. In addition, if you fuel injector rail is not holding pressure then it is possible to have a leaking fuel injector.

If you decide to replace the fpr be careful not to blast yourself in the face with fuel from the injector rail that has pressure built up in the line. I recall that the fpr has a ring holding it down sealed into the fuel injectors rail. In some cases it may pop out or it maybe stuck into the rail after removing the ring clip.

By the way, when was the last time you replace your fuel filter?

Texholdem · #9 04-17-2007, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimF

A contaminated MAF will also make the run extra rich. Mine was oil + silicone contaminated. Check Menu#4a for details. The good news is that you can clean it.

Hi,

With great interest I've read Menu #4a in Jim's web site. Is there also a MAF sensor for W124 engine M103.983? and where is it located?

Thanks!

Larry Delor · #10 04-17-2007, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texholdem

Hi,

With great interest I've read Menu #4a in Jim's web site. Is there also a MAF sensor for W124 engine M103.983? and where is it located?

Thanks!

If you are asking about your 89 300CE, then you wouldn't have the electronic kind - you have some flavor of the KJettronic (KE?) it uses a plate within a circle - the more air gets past, the more the plate gets lifted up, the more fuel gets injected (pretty much, anyway).

*****************************

As far as my troubles go....They are over!!

Replaced the regulator (let is sit for a while, and then let off any remaining pressure at the valve - a rag is good to have.) The car runs NICE and has its Zip back. By the time I got out of the car after my test drive, I was grinning ear to ear for about 10 mins.

A big Thank You to everybody that helped along!

-Larry

PS: My local autoparts store, now carries a spray designed especially to clean MAF's. Just over $6 a can.

JimF · #11 04-17-2007, 07:34 PM

So you're fixed . . . . for today! But what about tomorrow?? Just kidding. Hope it's fixed permanently.

BTW, if you're in the store let me know the name, etc of the MAF cleaner.

deanyel · #12 04-17-2007, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

PS: My local autoparts store, now carries a spray designed especially to clean MAF's. Just over $6 a can.

What's the name of the store? Do you know who makes it?

Larry Delor · #13 04-17-2007, 08:17 PM

Made by CRC - Seen at Advance Auto Parts

This link ought to get you there: http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=CRC&MfrPartNumber=05110&CategoryCode=3225

JimF · #14 04-17-2007, 09:34 PM

Tnx Larry. . . .added it as another source for a MAF cleaner in Menu 4a. Tnx for the info.

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