Update:

I just wanted to see if the car would start after resting for a while and sure enough it started right up but still is idling at 1500 rmps. The rpms gradually increase the longer it idles. I shut it down and started it multiple times. Every time it started right up without any problems. I then put it in gear and this time it did not stall but kept running at 800 rpms or so. I drove it around the block but noticed that when I tried to accelerate the cars studers and does not want to go.

I am going to order that EA module from the junk yard. I called today again and the price now is $125 + shipping. I hope that he is not quoting me the wrong part. The part has 6 month warranty but he did not have any mileage info about the car it came from. I will update once I get that part.

When you put in a new ETA, I was told to turn on the ignition, and leave it there for about 90 secs, so it can re-set itself/learn where its beginning and end is. Also, just to be sure, check your vacuum lines and your spring.

Clear the codes too, and then see which ones re-appear.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Update:

The car is running fine. Idles like a dream. I did not even have to buy and EA either. My father was the original owner when the problem started. The car would idle very low and stall so my father played with the screw on the throttle linkage to manually increase the idle speed. The reason for the high rpms after the new ETA was because of that. The reason the car stalled right after the ETA was installed is probably tied to the manual adjustment my father made on the throttle linkage.

As I stated earlier the car, after that one time it stalled, starts right up but would idle really high. My father was here today and he remembered what he did and said he marked the original position of the linkage. After the linkage was returned to the original position the car runs and idles perfectly. I drove the car around town and in the city without problems. The cruise control and everything else works. It was hot outside today and I let her idle up to the point where the aux fans came on twice to make sure she was really hot. I shut her down and waited 2 minutes. I started her up and she started right up and ilded. I did this to simulate a hot start.

So long story short what I have done after the new ETA is today I cleared all the codes (from the led reader thingy), I did the 90 second wait, and the throtle adjustment. I am going to keep an eye on the EA and if I get another code 6 I will order the EA right up.

I want thank everyone here for helping me save $4600. I am handy but needed direction and you have provided that and than some. Thank you all.

I do have one question though and that is what is that metal thing inside the widshield washer fluid can? Is it to keep it from freezing in the winter. It seems the anti-freeze is routed through there depending on the temp I think but want to confrim.

Okay maybe two questions. The heat on this car does not compare to my legacy in that it is never blowing hot air like I get from my subaru. Is something wrong with the car? I mean even on the highway it take like 30 minutes or so and it still is not burning hot like my legacy even at the maximum setting. What could that be?

Glad it's all working . . . enjoy the ride. So in summary, you bought a NEW ETA?? From a local dealer?? And that's it. Not too bad.

Yes, you certainly saved more that $4600 . . . b/c when the "real" bill came in, after it's been disassembled, you can almost guarantee another 10% or 15% just in 'incidentals'.

You may want to consider having the old ETA repaired; you can then sell it to recoupe some additional money . . . or save it until next time or another MB.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Yup, that is all I did up to now. The ETA was the problem and it did not kill the EA just yet. I tested the CC (accel,decel,resume,cancel) on the highway and it works fine. It idles fine. No codes yet (I hope I never get one). Thank you very much. I saved a lot of money but most importantly I saved the car as I was thinking about giving up on it.

The only issue I have is the heater issue I posted about on my previous one. In the northeast it gets cold and I want to take care of that soon before fall for sure. Any thoughts?

Well this is my first post to this forum, and i think that this topic is inspiring for all of us!!

I am currently running into a little issue but i would rather not "steal the thread"

Here is my question relating to this topic, would anyone out there try to rewire the eta to rule out a short or is it always best to send it in for a rebuild? could anything have been done different in this case?

That serves as a 'heater' so the window washer fluid won't freeze.

Two things;
1) How long does it take the temp gauge in the IC to get to 80-85C?
If it hovers around 80C or so and takes a relatively long time to reach 85C, it could be a partially stuck OPEN tstat. Since it nevers fully closes, it takes a long time for the engine temp to rise.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

My car warms up pretty quickly. It took about 15 minutes to get it to 80 on a 60 degree weather just idling. If I start the car and drive off withing 5 minutes the car is almost at 80. The heat is slower to come. The module inside seems to work. I just dont know what is going on.

Maybe a groady monovalve? Is the aux. pump runnning ok?

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Aux pump??? You mean the air pump? The air pump is new and is working. What is a monovalve?

When you go to fastlane above, go to the climate control section and look for monovalve (it lets hot water get past it, when it is supposed to).
In the engine cooling section, look for auxiliary water pump - once you see it, you will be able to easily locate it below the overflow tank and the oil filter housing.
Usually, you can hear and/or feel the aux pump running, with the ignition on.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

I cant find the aux water pump or the monovalve. I found something in front of the computer box but that is it. Can you tell me in detail where the aux water pump and the monovalve are located for a 1994 E420? Thank you.

First, this is a 1994 E420 with 206,000 miles. I've been dealing with a problem that I was told in the very beginning (14 months ago) was a bad ETA. So, I purchased one from BBA Reman and had it installed. The problem did not go away but I did notice that my gas mileage per tank dropped from 400 on the highway to about 250. Total schmucks there and completely ripped me off. Next shop I took it to said I needed the lower intake manifold replaced/repaired and that would solve this idle jumping up and down and improve gas mileage. I'm up on gas mileage but breaking 300 is about all I can do. The idle is still jumping up and down. I've also noticed even before that running the air and driving in town will cause hesitation when leaving the stop light. It also will leap when putting in reverse sometimes so I'm very careful putting the gas pedal down for fear of not knowing what it will do. It's rare but it happens. Btw, the timing chain is fine I had that completed recently so it has to be related to the air/gas mixture and blah blah blah. It's been giving me gray hairs trying to believe who is right and who is wrong and I just want the damn thing fixed. I bought this 94 E420 in August of 2013 for 1,500 and I've sunk 5,000 into it trying to solve this issue as well as the wandering steering which I've received 3 different opinions on that as well. Anyway, I took it to another place and he looked at the computer that I was told was the E Gas Module and the box was black. He said that looked suspicious because that's the first black box he's seen and that it should be metal or silver in color. He also added that is why the cruise control doesn't work.

So, every harness has been replaced and is still in excellent condition. The MAF has been replaced, the ETA has been replaced, the sensors have all been checked and in excellent condition. Every vacuum leak has been resolved. When I replace this E Gas Module and it doesn't correct the problem then what? Also, what the hell is going on with the extreme loss of mileage per tank?

I've also replaced control arms, ball joints, tie rods, center link, shocks, struts, the tires are brand new and no issue with treading there, the idler arm is good but I have one guy telling me there is too much play in the steering gear box, one guy says no but missed the fact that it's leaking everywhere, the other guy says it's coming from the rear end despite him also saying all bushings and links look great.

Could really use some help and if I have left out anything I'll be sure to add that in my replies.

Thanks

Unstable idle could be caused by a number of things including bad ETA (even after a rebuild), ignition module, plugs, wires, plug boots, rotors, caps, neutral safety switch, fuel pressure regulator, oxygen sensor, fuel pumps, crank position sensor, stop lamp switch, MAF sensor, or even a hidden vacuum leak.

Before you throw any more money at it, you should check the codes with the home brew DTC tool at the bottom of this page. K6JRF Auto Page

You should be able to rule out some of these components once you check and clear the codes. See if any return after that. If one shop said that the lower intake manifold needed repaired, did they tell you how they determined this? If they were checking for vacuum leaks maybe this is your problem, but I haven't heard any cases of these M119 engines leaking at the lower intake manifold.

You can also unplug the MAF sensor at the MAF and see if the idle gets better. If it does you probably have a bad MAF.

Also, check the E-gas module part number. It should be 124 545 40 32 (part #83 in picture).

Attached Files

Module Box.pdf (119.6 KB, 97 views)

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles