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#1
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126 V8 Oils
Recently acquired 500 sel had 10-30W synthetic engine oil according to p.o. It also came with massive oil leak from lower oil pan gasket. Upon replacement of oil pan gasket should I stay with synthetic oil but heavier weight 20-50W? or go back to conventional Rotella Diesel 10-40W that I used successfully in a 450sel? or perhaps try new Rotella Diesel Synthetic? Am I throwing money away staying with synthetic on a 140,000 mile engine? Recent article on this board about engine oil for older engines didn't resolve issue for me.
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#2
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If the engine is running well with no leaks, I see no reason not to use the 5W40 "synthetic."
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#3
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I'd run 20/50.. Esp. if you Drive the car at all. Mercedes calls for heavier oils in these cars.
More importantly is the additive package in the oil you are running. Most of what's out there is not what the Engineers had in mind when your engine was designed. Jonathan
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Blue Ridge Mercedes Jonathan Hodgman http://www.blueridgemb.com/ Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning. Follow Us on Facebook! Located in the Atlanta area Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines. Mercedes Repair Atlanta |
#4
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in my 84 500sec i was happy with mobil 1 10w30.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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...as in Delo, LongLife, Rotella, etc.
100% Synthetic Amsoil AME 15W-40 is easily a 15,000 mile oil in these cars: just remember to change out the filter at 7,500, at the very least. I change my filter every 5K, top off & I'm good to go! ![]() Cheers!
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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435 |
#6
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In my 4.5 i stick with 10w30 or 40.
I found 20w50 WAY too thick and I wouldnt think of 5w30 in an engine I drive that hard and gets that hot. I would go with 10w30/40 in any m116 or m117. People tend to put in thicker oil in these and it winds up putting a lot of sludge in the cam oiler tubes, cutting off vital flow.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2024 CR-V Hybrid Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2018 Durango R/T, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#7
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20/50 if you look in your owners manual covers a wide range of temperatures. I would run 10-40 in winter living up north, but most def. not in summer.
Not sure who told you 20/50 clogs your cam oiler tubes with sludge, but the weight oil you run has absolutely nothing to do with sludge. How often you change it, how hot your engine runs...that has direct effect on sludge. All of my cars run either 15/50 or 20/50 and I can promise you they are as clean as can be. Jonathan
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Blue Ridge Mercedes Jonathan Hodgman http://www.blueridgemb.com/ Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning. Follow Us on Facebook! Located in the Atlanta area Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines. Mercedes Repair Atlanta |
#8
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cdplayer
Quote:
Helped to improve compression. So I went one step further and put Mobil 1 20/50 right after I got her. Boy, does this stuff clean out your engine. Cleaned so well, began noticing oil leaks. After 5000 miles, I went back to Castrol 20/50 (dino oil) for high mileage engines. This oil has additives that actually swell those tired gaskets and slow down(or stop) those pesky oil leaks. Cured my leak problem after 2000 miles. |
#9
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Quote:
Look at your owner's manual and stick with what the engineers who designed your engine recommend.
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Current Benzes 1989 300TE "Alice" 1990 300CE "Sam Spade" 1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007) 1998 E320 "Orson" 2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox" Res non semper sunt quae esse videntur My Gallery Not in this weather! |
#10
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After reading a lot of oil discussions here, I keep falling back on the principle of RTFM. My manual is quite clear on viscosity--20-50 is the recommendation for the temps I drive in with this car (3-season only). 5-30 found its way in there once by error and consumption went way up. MB obviously had certain characteristics in mind in designing the engine, and set their recommendations to match them. Re oil type, the best performance I've had re leaking at 165K is dino old-engine formula, Valvoline in my case, so I'm stickin' with it. For this high-mileage beast with no top end work done yet, and not much needed, frequent changes seem more key than high-tech chemistry. But that's my answer for a high-mileage seasonal-use car--your situation may be different, and it's always "horses for courses".
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Craig Bethune '97 SL500, 40th anniversary edition '04 Olds Bravada (SWMBO's) '06 Lexus ES330 '89 560SL (sold) SL--Anything else is just a Mercedes. (Kudos to whoever said it first) |
#11
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Quote:
Went back to dyno 2-50 and oil consumption dropped down to a little less than a quart every 3k miles. Which is pretty darned good for a high compression engine with 126k miles. Stick with the info in your owner's manual; look at the detergent qualities of the oil you use and change it often. Dino oil is cheap, and engine overhaul is expensive!
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Current Benzes 1989 300TE "Alice" 1990 300CE "Sam Spade" 1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007) 1998 E320 "Orson" 2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox" Res non semper sunt quae esse videntur My Gallery Not in this weather! |
#12
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I run Delvac 1 5w40 in my old diesels and it seems to work great, I would think the gas engines of similer vintage would like it as well. According to my 603's owners manual 5w40 is recomended for just about all temps.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#13
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I've seen more than one MB V8 suffer from cam oiling issues when using heavy weight oils. Its not a sludge problem but more a problem of squeezing enough cold thick oil thru the small cam oiler tube holes. May be OK in warmer areas but I wouldn't do it here in Texas in the winter.
I run synthetic in my V8 cars. However, I read somewhere that you never have to change your oil. ![]() |
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