trunk light draining battery
 

i have previously determined that my trunk light was draining my battery because the plunger on the light switch was not being pushed in far enough when the trunk lid was shut. so i applied a little plastic drawer bumper to the sill to build up the area where the plunger touches the trunk sill. (see pic, but ignore all the junk in my trunk). after having been gone for a week on vacation, i came back to a totally dead battery. after a recharge all last night I once again checked the current drain by applying my multitester between the negative battery terminal and the negative cable. it drew .79 amps which i knew was too much. So i opened the trunk lid and removed the trunk bulb which reduced the current draw to .03 amps. much better.

does anyone know of a way to attach an extender to the trunk light switch plunger so it well be pressed in further when the trunk is closed? there are threads on the area where the plunger goes into the switch. is there anything out there that can be used? (see pic)

thanks for any insight.

If the sw does not require full button throw for disconnect, you can but a piece of fuel/vac. hose over the shaft to extend it...but, before that , I would check the trunk latch adjustment for full close.
If the sw does require full button depress for disconnect , I would change the switch..

Interesting! Just wonder how did you come up with the trunk light as the source in the first place. It reminds me of the joke that the Scots would not buy refrigerator for being not sure if the light goes out when closed :). No offense to the Scots intended.

Switch does not require full button throw to disconnect. How do you adjust trunk lid?

How did I determine it was trunk light? By checking which circuit had the current draw and then disconnecting items on that circuit until the current draw went away.

You have your Mother -in- Law get into the trunk to check it...

Then you make her say Pretty Please.

To Arthur's point, the true test of a good marriage is for you to get in the trunk and have your wife close the lid. You can then determine if the light is going out. If she opens it, all is well; if not, she would have come up with another plan sooner or later anyway.

A semi-scientific approach and one better suited for iffy marraiages would be to place a cam corder in the trunk, aimed in the direction of the lamp. Close lid, let it run a bit, open lid, take cam corder inside and hook up to TV or watch the film thru whatever viewing facility is built into the cam corder.

Don't trust the wife if you have been married over 6 months..

Simple test is to just put an amp meter on the bat cable [in series] ..that will tell you when the light draws current..ie. , goes on/off..

Switches wear out, get dirty. A new switch is <$4

If 2 of the switch contact wires are reversed (easy to do, all spade lugs) the light is on all the time. Found out from experience.....