HELP! 97 E320 M104 won't run - ETS light on!
 

I used my car just yesterday, ran flawlessly all day. This morning at startup it ran very rough and would hardly stay alive. Was extremely sluggish and popped a couple times from under the hood, so I turned around and went back home. The CEL went on, and I pulled codes - P0300, 304, 305, 306 (misfire). I reset the CEL and parked it - used the other car instead.

Just got home and tried it again, this time it starts up and runs seemingly OK for about 3 or 4 seconds, then cuts out and the ETS light and message appear. I disconnected the battery and reset adaptations, and the result is the same.

HELP! Where do I begin?

I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have sold the 300E...

Wish I could help you, but did you already sell the 300E?

Man....that was fast.

Begin by checking the K40 relay module.

Started to think about it - even after replacing my MAF last week (to resolve sluggish hesitation), the long crank when hot problem remained. From everything I read, it appeared this long crank could be caused by a blown fuel pressure regulator. Yesterday I pulled the vacuum line off the regulator, and fuel started dripping steadily out of it, so it is definitely shot. I am leaving work early today to get a regulator and reinstall it. I am hoping the ETS was somehow just triggered by the poor running condition, but who knows? Either way, the regulator needs to be installed; if it fixes the problem, great. If not, at least I have a baseline from which to start. I'll report back.

Yes, it is sold. Actually took a whole month, which to me isn't all that fast. That 300E was hands-down my favorite out of all the cars I ever owned - why in the world did I sell it?!?!

Though I am M103 biased, honestly I have to give this M104 a fair chance. I'm sure it can be great once all the PO's bugs are worked out.

Thanks - where/what is the K40 relay? I'll also do a search...

Did you sell the car to someone locally or here on the ShopForum?

I sold it locally, to an acquaintance actually. He is about 19 years old and just totalled his Altima. Normally I prefer not to sell the vehicle to a friend or coworker, but this kid is fairly reasonable and I made it clear I would not be his personal mechanic-on-call. We put everything in writing, including the usual "no warranty expressed or implied" clause so I think things will be fine. I will be replacing the smog pump bearing for him within 45 days, and I also told him about the seepage from the valve cover and need to add a quart of oil between oil changes, which was OK with him.

It's in the module box under the hood, at the very front. There are a few wires and fuses on top.

Remove it from the car and remove the bottom cover (you will need a screwdriver to separate the cover). Inspect all of the solder joints under a bright light, preferably with a magnifier, looking for fine cracks.

Well the fuel pressure regulator arrived and I installed it - no more leaking fuel! Unfortunately, when I went to start the car it still would not start. Would run for a second and cut right out, with the ETS message again.

I don't know what I was thinking, but just for kicks I unplugged the new MAF and the car started right up, ran smoothly for about 30 seconds, then cut out. Started it up, did the same thing. Plugged the MAF back in and it wouldn't run again. So I dug up the old MAF and plugged it back in and the car is running once again.

It looks like my MAF failed, and I will be seeking an exchange with the online seller. Looks like I'm stuck with sluggish performance until the replacement gets here. But at least the car is usable once again.

I'm eager to see if the new fuel pressure regulator clears up my long crank when hot.