Jezz, Jim. 10 hours? You're good. It took me 3 weeks for my 1st one, 10 days for my 2cd. I spent about 2 hrs/day on it. Also did the drier, condensor, compressor, lines to condensor, schrader valves, expansion valve was already on evap, every hose I could find (about 12) - 3 had to be cut off, window switches, washer tank heater core, cleaned everything like the inst cluster, also new fuel cooler, all 3 evap sensors, 2 pressure switches (+ drier), 2 temp sensors (another on the drier), zinc cromated the wiper assembly, heater core, hc hose assembly, blower motor controller, high temp insulation, tested all vacs - replaced 2 out of 11, 3 new vac hoses, headliner out and filled with flat sound isolation - I've never seen any on a 140, it's just the sheet metal against the headliner, wiring here and there, drain tubes, firewall insulation etc.

How'd you flush the a/c lines without the compressor running? Is there a way to just flush it with the evap case, condensor etc off?

My hat's off to you!

Tnx for that but the brains of this project was the tech. He knows every connector as if it was the only one there . . . truly amazing.

For example, as the job was finishing up (installing the center console after getting it anchored to the floor), he was do what looked like 'fanning' the many connectors ends but he actually was organizing/sorting them as to where they need to be in the 'tiered' shelves of the console.

I mentioned the elusive radio theft plug in all that mess, he immediately reached into the 'mess' and pulled it out. That's why we finished in 10 hours.

I didn't change anything other than the main components and not any lines. I did inspect them and they looked fine. Since my system had so much UV-dye in it, it would have showed was my reasoning.

I have a flush gun driven by shop air and it holds about 1qt of 'flush'. When then evap was removed you had access to the two lines connected to the Txv. Simple matter to flush them without having to remove them. But it's messy since it's hard to catch it all . . . most ends up on the floor. But it seemed to clean the hoses ok.

Flushed the condensor (planned on replacing it but the new one wouldn't fit!) that way also but used some 1" ID clear hose (the same stuff that was used to replace the a/c drains; tnx to brewtoo) over the fittings and a home made "catch-the-crap" bottle. Also seemed to work ok.

How clean is everything? I guess I don't really know but looking through the site glass on the drier, I actually see 'bubbles' and a clear "liguid", so it did pretty well.

Well, actually, "something" was broken . . . .

Found a hair-line crack in the "Water Level Indicator" so it had to be replaced. I guess that's not too bad.

Me too! Yikes!
 

Mine is a 124. Also did it at my local tech's shop, had someone to rely on when I got stuck. I had the cowl and dash apart and the box out in 5 hours yeasterday, spent another 5 today opening and closing the box. And an extra hour fabbing a plastic connector.

Just finished rebuilding and buttoning up the box today, new evap and heater box, new vac elements, waiting for drain hoses and one hard-to-find vac element. The evap is evacuated from the distributor, and my tech says, no whooshing sound upon removal of the seal plate, no install. Mine was fine.

We shot up the unit, and per my tech, will check it again on Friday before we snap the dash back in. Broke a strange plastic u-joint which controls the lower flaps. Don't try this at home, part hard to get. Fabbed a better-than original replacement out of zip-ties. I'll explain it to anyone interested. Otherwise, no drama, other than forgetting that lower flap connection and having to remove the new heater box and re-install.

My evaporator was a complete foul mess, not sure where the leak was. My heaterbox was pretty gone as well, not leaking but worth replacing. I cleaned the box out thoroughly and sprayed both the evap and heaterbox with Frigi-Fresh.

She just turned over 300,000. ALMOST did not feel like shelling out any more on this car, except I think it may hit 500K (harness, chain, trans, now evaporator all done) and it looks clean. And the alternative, a NEW car, was more bucks.

I wonder if there are any ways you can get to the evaporator from the engine compartment instead of tearing down the hole dash. I recall seeing some pictures of people replacing the blower motor and just behind that i think was the evaporator. Maybe I was just seeing things.

The blower motor is part of the "box" (third photo) the 'sticks' through an opening in the firewall. But to remove the box (to get to the evaporator), the only access is from the interior of the car.

Wish that it were otherwise.

That is true. But all you can do with the evaporator from there is look at it.

You can open the main filter's access flap to see and remove it but in my car you can't see the evap since it's all buttoned up in the "box". If you mean 'get-a-glimpse', that probably is true.

But to 'inspect-it', you have to remove it, remove a bunch of clips and screws, separate the two halves and then you can see the evaporator.

I remember you posted a lot of good pictures when you had yours replaced. So how has it been since you put it back together. Does the interior runs quiet like before? or does it make squeaky noise?

I remember with a GM car I used to own, the dash had to be taken apart for just a minor job like heater core replacement. It never sounded the same after that. That car rattled and squeak every time I go over a bump.

Not a squeak or a rattle at all. I was very careful to put it back together just as it was before. You can't tell it's ever been apart. Except that the leaking evaporator is gone!