Engine runs hot Blue Particles in Coolant - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

CamelotShadow · #1 08-28-2007, 01:38 PM

Just got a thermo installed
old was sticking
Engine still ran hot getting to about 110 115
not as bad as the 120 redline before repair

Coolant level was down 6 pints which I added today
Shop said it might have had an air pocket when they filled it.

Hoping thats it

Haven't started it yet
The coolant in the resovoir had blue/green particles floating in it after I added water.

Is this normal?
Is it bad?

Should I have the coolant changed
I got the car w no records but my guess was the coolant is 2 to 4 years old which I told the shop but it only has about 300 miles on it.

The radiator is a Behr so I think it is not original but it has a benz star om it.

Started up right away
Only my 4th start
Idle was a bit hi over 1000
Oil pressure 3
I ran it about 15 min in Park
idel went down to about 800
Temp went up to about 80
T stat opened about there as top rad hose got warm
Temp went up eventually to around 100 oil pressure 3

I shut it down

One thing I noticed is that the res coolant tank stayed cold
It never entered the system
Is this normal?
I was hot yesterday when it was about half filled.

Thanks

juribe2 · #2 08-28-2007, 05:59 PM

Hi,

What model / year is your car?

Have you replaced the system pressure cap?

Have you ever flushed the system or replace the coolant?

Have you checked the aux fans operation in high and low speed?

CamelotShadow · #3 08-28-2007, 06:47 PM

I feel so stupid
I just got the car

The coolant res is up to level well close about 1 inch from top.

It was the windshield washer res
I guess the cleaner broke down or the water did it

Anyway I syphoned that watery liquid with blue particles almost all of it

I have to fill that now but not sure if a benz takes standard no frills windshield cleaner.

This means that the engine heating condition is the same as yessterday but its better at idle in garage.

I';ll have to drive it & see
But something is not right with it

Thanks

PS its a 83 500 SEC

jhodg5ck · #4 08-28-2007, 07:05 PM

I would check your t-stat..common item to fail. Does the rad feel hot? More then just the hose should get warm.

Jonathan

juribe2 · #5 08-28-2007, 11:30 PM

Agree. If you just got the car, It´s a good idea to replace the thermostat, the radiator cap and upper and lower radiator hoses. I would also flush the system and put new coolant in it. Try to get MB or Zerex G05 Yellow coolant.

CamelotShadow · #6 08-29-2007, 01:01 AM

Had the car a few days
Its been to see Enrique in Tarzania
Thermo was sticking
it was changed
but its still running hot
though not in the red like it was.

Radiatir had old coolant

Radiator gets hot
seems to be equally got hot least on top as I can feel
Top hose does get warm about 80 C so thermo is working
its new

Now I need to jnow where to look next
Entiques says could be air
then it could be radiator??? maybe water pump???
I just want to fix it whatever it is

I guess it can't hurt to change coolant
The rad cap seems really good seal
The resovoir was to the top
Enqriques says not it could be air?

Coolant looks more greenish than yellow
& when I dipped a rag in it was almost colorless

I really wanted all fluids changed as I believe the car has sat last 4 yrs w only 300 miles on it in last 4 yrs

Mileage is 196K
It s Euro
so maybe it runs hot?

Thanks so much
I really would like to get this guy safely back on the road

juribe2 · #7 08-29-2007, 09:21 AM

I'm not familiar with you car, but in most MBs it is normall to get 100 - 110C. Does your car have some aux fans in front of the radiator? Aux fans usually turn on at low speed when A/C is on and on high speed when coolant temperature is about 103C.

Check also if your main fan is good. Some have a fan clutch that needs to be checked for good operation but I'm not familiar with your car model.

Radiator cap is very important and is a cheap fix. Check if the seal is in perfect shape.

When you fill the system with coolant, some air can be trapped inside the system. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes with the radiator cap removed to let the air out.

It is recomended to change the coolant every 3 years. It is better to use the yellow MB or Zerex stuff, mixed 50/50 with destilled water. I can get those coolants in my country, so I have to use a different one.

If you don't have coolant leaks, then the water pump is probably good.

Just some ideas. I hope this helps.

zcc · #8 08-29-2007, 10:40 AM

Also make sure that there is no air in the water path. Let me say I'm almost sure that your car has air in the water path...

CamelotShadow · #9 08-29-2007, 10:58 AM

I read about running it w cap off & hot defrost on to let air out.\

I'll have the radiator flushed & MB coolant

I want to change all fluids to give it a good baseline

Was just hoping to get all redords for car but its possible I may not get them so just have to try to figure it out.

Maybe air
maybe needs some use
Maybe since its a Euro
& esp since its gor smog restriction
100 110 is what it runs at.

Just don't want it to redline
It did before the thermo change
& it got real close to 115 after the repair on the drive home
but maybe that could be air & old coolant...

Thanks will try to get air out if it has...

PS yes it does have a fan on both sides of radiator
looks to be another cooling panel in front of radiator guess thats for the AC & there is a fan in front

The fan in the rear was operating at idle

CamelotShadow · #10 09-17-2007, 01:45 PM

Thanks

Update

Changed
Thermostat
sensor as guage waivered

Still fot close to 120 C

So next was radiator

Temps run now 95 to 100C

Still I wish it would run in the 80 range

Never did change rad cap
its a 1.2 bar

how can I tell its bad?

Still could have air as only ran twice since radiator change

Will the air escape on its own
or do i have to run is 10 min w rad cap off..?

Would like it to run as cool as possible...

Oooh only rad caps I have seen for this model have been 140 in MB parts.

What about aftermarket rad caps
There is 120 available but not OEM
its I CRP indiustries..

Thanks

crhenkel · #11 09-17-2007, 01:50 PM

Using the correct pressure radiator cap is important, using a MB cap is not. Use a cap that is rated for the correct pressure and dont worry if it is not a genuine MB cap. They are all about the same quality.

CamelotShadow · #12 09-17-2007, 02:00 PM

Thanks
It seems they offer 120 & 140 for the 500 SEC
I have to look up 84 as there is no 83 500 SEC in USI also looked up
83 380 SEC & they also offer same 120 & 140 rad cap.

So not sure what my car uses though there is a 120 on it now.

Just wondering if a Euro engine could use different.

Seems the cooling system in Euro is same specs as US

So I guess I would go with the 120 as its on the car
but maybe thats a problem.

How can I find out what rad cap psi is best?

Thanks

Larry Delor · #13 09-17-2007, 04:44 PM

The rubber seal on the cap, should not have any cracks in it - a small indentation where it meets the lip on the reservoir, is ok. Sometimes the seating are on the reservoir has crud build up on it -check that out. The spring on the cap should feel firm...not sloppy.

I cannot imagine that the pressure would be different between the euro and US engines.

Was the water pump ever changed?

I had posted about the outside temperature in your area, when I realized I was mixing celcius, and fahrenheit. whoops

CamelotShadow · #14 09-22-2007, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

The rubber seal on the cap, should not have any cracks in it - a small indentation where it meets the lip on the reservoir, is ok. Sometimes the seating are on the reservoir has crud build up on it -check that out. The spring on the cap should feel firm...not sloppy.

I cannot imagine that the pressure would be different between the euro and US engines.

Was the water pump ever changed?

I had posted about the outside temperature in your area, when I realized I was mixing celcius, and fahrenheit. whoops

Rubber seal looks fine
There was a bit of scale near the speing & on the rim near the rubber
I removed it & clleaned the cap

Didn't test the spring though.

Will have to look at it again.

Still its a cheap part so I guess it wouldn't hurt to change.

I don't have the history of the car.

I have had thermo & radiator replaced
looks to me like the radiator I had might have not been original
It was a Behr & had a yellow & white id # sticker on it with # on it ending 3303 or beginning..can't remember.
while radiator neck had 126 505 0155

It looked fine externally

I might have tried to flush it but I guess that would run least $200 anyway & may have not improved the temperature.\ & would have been a waste so I agree it was just wise to replace w new
I would have liked to have had a call though to approve a close to $500 part & pick brand...least he put in the Behr or else I would not have benn happy at all.
He was fair with price so now the car has a new radiator which should last another 10 plus years I hope...

No work on water pump.
From what I can see it looks like it could be original
I;d have to see if I can get part number

Was also thingking could be idle
It idles high when it forst starts
lowers some but at park odle its 1000
luckily in drive it idles in 560 range so thats better.

I;ve noticed when its hot it will idle lumpy in park & sometimes at a stop light too.

Maybe this has something to do with heat?
coulkd have old vac hose leaks too...

Just trying to go thru car & updgrade accessible inexpensive parts to help bring it up to par...

Car has sat for most part of least 4 years so I guess it needs a good long drive
but I do want to male sure its not going to be a danger to me or itself...

Thanks for the advice