Hi,

I need a little bit of help. My heater blower stopped working today on my '94 E280 and I looked straight away at the fuses and it had gone - easy fix I thought. On closer inspection the bottom end of the fuse had melted at some point so I had to get it out with small pliers.
I could then see that the metal cup it sits in had also got hot an it had 'sunk' and got covered in the black plastic of the surround it sits in - thus the new fuse couldn't make contact.
As a temp fix I have managed to drill of the melted plastic so there is a contact for the lower end of the fuse to meet.

Now the help bit: Can someone suggest a reason why this would have got so hot?

Can someone help with a part number for the black plastic fuse tray that the fuses sit in and the wires screw to underneath (this is seperate from the box).

Thanks in anticipation.
Toby

On the 1987 & later USA versions that fuse was mounted in a seperate external fuse holder.

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My blower fuse in my '93 400E blew and actually started a fire in my engine compartment. My indy mechanic took my car and fixed it all up. My insurance actually paid for most of the damage.

What my mechanic found was that a terminal broke off from my ignition switch and according to him, it caused a much higher load on my blower motor circuit. Consequently, it blew the fuse and started the fire.

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Frank
84 500SEL EURO 101K ( JUST LIKE MY 1ST WIFE. GLAD TO GET RID OF HER! )
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When you check your 30 amp fuse, it's not a bad idea to actually remove the screws to see if the fuse is intact. I had an absolutely invisible break in mine.

If you don't want to remove it, set your controls and key to operate the fan at high speed, then simply bridge the 30A fuse from terminal to terminal and if the fan will now operate, the fuse is at fault. Be sure to use an insulated wire of a decent size (to handle the current) to do the bridging.

A $3.82 fuse is much better to buy than all the other parts that could fail!

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