one thing I have been noticing also is that it feels like a slight backfire when i am driving at low speeds, and its been spending alot of gas. and shifting hard at times.
any ideas?
thanks

Sorry Jim, After rereading my post, I can see where I left room for confusion.

The "unit" I refer to is indeed the throttle actuator. The ECU module I refer to is pin #8, HFM/SFI module. (I keep a printout of a thread from cdanschwartz with all the DTC's listed. The printout refers to pin 8 as "ECU"--probably should be "HFM/SFI")

When I originally went through all this about a year ago, I was (and still am) very much in a learning mode........

Lebstyle:

The throttle return spring is located on the aft side of the throttle actuator. It is accessible by removing the black air cross over tube, the rubber air tube that sits on top of the throttle actuator, and the variable intake valve that sits in the middle of the black plastic intake manifold. To remove the variable intake valve you have to remove the four rubber plugs to expose four allen head bolts.....

By the way, does your cruise control work?

Just recognised another mistake--the HFM/SFI fault I referred to was actually a CC/ETA fault. My fault descriptions are all correct, but I had the modules labled incorrectly. Jim: thanks for pointing this out.

For clarification, here is what I had with all the correct labling:

Diagnostic module via built in reader: code 6: Idle speed control inoperative

Pin 8, (HFM/SFI): code 8: Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower
control stop

Pin 14, (ETA/CC/ISC): code 2: ETA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact
switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp
switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter
lock-out/back-up
lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed
throttle position
switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module

Tnx for clarifying your post; it didn't read 'right'. . . Pin 14 is "EA" module standing for "Electronic Accelerator" . . .

This is the first case that I know where the CC went bad in the EA module but if it can happen, it's worth posting it.

i have'nt checked my cruise if it works, but i will today.
whats the best way to check for a vacuum leak?

i tried the cruise while the CE light was on today, it didnt seem to be working

I suspect you have a bad throttle actuator. If this were my car, I would contact Beckmann Technologies or 4Mercedes to see about a remanufactured unit. Best way is to send yours in for testing/remanufacturing. That way you verify it is indeed bad prior to spending lots of $$$. If you can't do without the car for a week or so, either Beckmann or 4Mercedes can send you a rebuilt unit--they will add a core charge which will be refunded when they receive your old unit. When I went through this about a year ago, 4 Mercedes was about $500.00, Beckmann was about $675.00. I used Beckmann, because they were much more helpful and professional.

J. M. van Swaay

I agree with JM's recomendation of Beckmann. They 'know' ETAs and can properly test to determine if it is bad.

Received a email regarding an ETA repair done by "4Mercedes". Great horror story that you wouldn't believe. Asked him to post it here but he's having trouble making a 'post'. So all I can say is I wouldn't recommend them . . . price is less but . . . :behead:

how can i find the N4/1 module on my car, 94 e320
thanks

the reason for my question is that I played around alot with the accelerator pedal adjustment, that i might have messed something up to make my car idle high in drive and park slightly, it will not go any lower under any circumstances, and gives me the code 6
pin 8 code 8
pin 14 code 2

but other than that the car runs perfect.

Email Sent

can the co potentiometer be adjusted on my car?
94 e320

Most likely yes but I could be wrong Ill look later.

b/c the car idle is a little too high, i can live with that, but its spending alot of gas. but it runs smooth.