Hey,

I have two keys to my 1987 Mercedes 300E, one can only be used for locking / unlocking the doors and the other one can be used for the ignition and the doors. This morning I put the wrong key in the ignition and turned it and now my key is stuck in the on position, the car is not on but it is on the position where the battery is on. I disconnected the battery because the key wont turn backwards for me to get it out, does someone know what i can do to get this key out?

any help is greatly appreciated...thanks- mark

Mark,
You dont want to know what you will likely have to do to get the key out...
Yep, not fun. Do a search on the forum for "ignition cylinder" or something similar. You will get lots of info on how the pull the cylinder and get the key out. Sometimes you get lucky and can do it with a simple wire tool. SOmetimes you have to cut the old lcok cylinder out, not cool. If I remember correctly, if the cylinder will go to the first position, you can use the wire tool to place into the two small holes in the key cylinder and the cylinder will come out. Do a search on this forum for the instructions, if that is the case, it will be an easy fix for you.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Yep, I think you got lucky. If the key is jambed in position 1, that is where the key needs to be to remove the cylinder. Usually the problem is the key will go in but the cylinder will not go to position 1 or 2. If you are stuck in Position 1 than all you need to do is make the wire tool to release the spring clip inside to allow the cylinder to come out. You've got to have the key in pos 1. Then slide the coat hanger tool in (FAR!) to unlock the black cover ring. It can take a while to get it to release, you should be able to get the feel of it once you get the tool made and try it a few times. Coat hanger must be shaved at ends to point (point facing away from centerline, 70 deg angle). Good luck. OH, I would NOT reuse the cylinder even if you get the key out. GO order a new cylinder from your MB dealer, porbably about $120 total, but you get a new key with it and it will work in all your key openings. They can cut the new cylinder and key by using the car's VIN.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

I haven't pulled mine yet...but i got the the key and cylinder for 84 dollars from my dealer...

i have the part...just need to find the time to do the job....

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

glad to hear the cylinder is less than I thought, i need to get one in my 16v, the key is just starting to catch and stick once in a while and I DO NOT want it to lock up on me. $84 is much better insurance than having it go bad and have to force it out. Not fun

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Make sure you ask the dealer for the MBCA discount.... My ignition had a 100 list price...and they discounted it 20%

I was also pleasantly surprised that it came with a key.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Hey- thanks for all the help. I still cant get the key out its broken off in the ignition now...I ordered a new cylinder with keys, is there an easier way to get the cylinder out without removing the dashboard? the key is broken off in position 2, but the outside part moves to position one so i can get they key in...which does not help me much when the key is stuck in position 2.

anything i can do?

hmmm, pray?
And get a dremmel tool, several cut off wheels, a pair of saftey glasses, a couple beers and a long weekend. Sorry, no better advice, I think you are going to end up cutting the pieces out with it broken off.

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Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Just had mine repaired....believe me ...was no fun...
try using the MBZ tool as describle in this froum...good luck!

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91 MBZ 300SE
88 JAG XJS V12 Coupe
76 LANCIA Scorpion

Ok, the tumbler is stuck in #2, but the front most part of where the key enters turns easily to allow the tool in. I used a 2mm spoke - great idea.

The tool goes in nearly 2 inches, but my hunch is that the majority of the tumbler still in position 2 is keeping the locking mechanism locked. If I could just get an eyeball on setup for 10 seconds, I could see if my hours of wiggling & giggling is helping.

The tumbler and hardened case should pull right straight out, correct?

If someone confirms that the whole tumbler has to be in position #1, even though the tool goes in all the way, then is there a way to drill out the tumbler?

Thanks again.. I will soon be a w124 tumber / lock cylinder thanks to your help. Mark

on my W126 it pulls straight out...

bascially there are two locking detents that pulls inwards when the tools is ramed fully home...thus releasing the tumbler and hardend shroud both at the same time.

best of luck to u!

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91 MBZ 300SE
88 JAG XJS V12 Coupe
76 LANCIA Scorpion

I have purchased a new tumbler & can now see the dentens (the new one has 2 holes, but only one denten), but the old one just won't budge.

I can't imagine how the hardened cap around the tumbler is held in, thus how releasing the tumbler releases the cap.

I now know the length at which point the tool reaches the denten(s) 1.25". Without seeing the tumbler, I figured 1.75", but this is well beyond the point & the resistence that I'm seeing here must be at the switch.

Once the tumbler / cap is out, does the tumbler turn out 90 degrees or something like that.

I just hate to think the pricey locksmith is going to be charging me for the same struggles that I've faced.

Ideas?

Thanks again - Mark

The wire diameter of your tool is also important..(no I'm not going there). Too big and it won't insert all the way. Too small and it won't release the detent enough. I just went through this with a 95 W124 2 hours from home. Standard clothes hanger is to big, but the cheap white painted ones from the cleaners are just right. Also an electrical staple won't work, nor will a large paper clip. Its also important to file the ends of the tool with the proper slash point so that it can get behind the detent. Good Luck!

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Hanno
'79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years)
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion
'02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'05 E500 Wagon

Thanks Hanno,

I have something about as tight as I can get.

So, just work it in past the resistance, and pull on the key, and the tumbler and hardened black collar just come right off?

Stunning - I'm back at it now.....

Oh, and I'm the handy sort..

The end of the wire has to be filed to a sharp taper so it wedges the detent to the side as it is inserted. I made a tool using a coat hanger bent into a "U" shape with the two ends filed to a point. I think the wires had to be about 4" long to straddle the key, but in your case there is no key so they can probably be shorter.

Once you insert the tool, you need to pull outward with the key to withdraw the cylinder. You might have a problem with that since the key is broken off.