I don't know what is more important - to clarify what wrong information has presented, or what new information needs to be presented.

First: the 300E w124 is different than the others.

Buy a 1.5 - 2.0mm bike spoke. Bend in a square u about 4 inches long & with to be exactly the width of the 2 holes. File ends down to 60 degrees with angled faces facing each other - now taper the tips of the angled faces down a bit so that they fit in the little holes that we will be targeting. See, even filing the ends to a pin point at 60 degrees all the way around would be ideal because all we care about is hitting the small 2 holes at the very base of the collar that will pull in the two detents that are, presently pushing into the groove inside the collar. This tool will slide either above or below the 2 o'clock positioned tumbler clip about 3/4 inch in. We don't care about that because we want the collar out & the tumbler is easily removed after the collar. So, this very straight tool with pointed ends will slide down all the way (as deep as the collar), into the small holes & force inward the upper an lower detents that are presently engaged in the groove of the collar.

First, take 3 minutes to remove the plastic covering from the lock, pry with screwdriver from the left side near steering wheel, and the left cover by pulling off headlight switch & unscrewing large screw with electrician pliers, then 3 phillip head screws under parking break release, then 5 up & 2 under 5/15" hex nuts for lower knee kick area. 3 mins on & 3 minutes off. Do it.

You might get by with just the key plastic cover only if somehow your tool hits it right off. Nah, just do it.

First, if you have been on this for a while, sit back read & be dismayed...

No, the collar does not unscrew. No, 14g house wire or a paper clip will not help you, AND no, you don't worry worry about taking the tumbler and cylinder out as a set. How about this: NO, the little black clip on the tumbler is not your objective, and needs to have nothing to do with the removal. OK, lets go here: NO, NO, NO, don't even begin listening to the idea of pulling on the key for removing the tumbler and collar. You know what? YOU DO NEED the tool for both holes.

** The trick here is getting the collar off, and the tumbler (thus clip) has NOTHING to do with the collar's removel. This comes after - sure, they can come off together, but anyone reading this is struggling, so separate the issues!

8 hours on line, and 4 struggling with the car & how I wish I knew the aforementioned truths. Why all the false info? People have assumed that their Lock Cylinder is the same. WRONG.

OK, this is what I needed to know:

1. The tumbler slides into the switch housing, while the harded black collar covers the switch housing. The collar has a plastic coating, making it seem plastic, until hours of tugging & grabbing scratches the plastic off.

2. The collar is empty inside other than a groove lathed into the bottom (furthest from the key entry) end of it and a notch at the 9 o'clock position only to keep the position 1, 2, etc markings in place.

3. The tumbler can be taken out even if you don't depress the flimsy spring metal. THE FLIMSY SPRING METAL HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE COLLAR REMOVAL.

4. SIMPLY: The job involves getting the hardened black collar off. Once off, then the tumbler unit will slide out when reinserting the tool, or pry out if the spring metal clip is (as was mine) is damaged.

Ok, for this lock, the black clip (only on the 2 o'clock position on the tumbler) is only to keep the tumbler from moving around or rattling.

SUMMARY & additional pointers.

This tool needs to be perfectly straight & exactly the same distance from each other as are the two holes while key / tumbler is in position one (can't get position one? read below) so that the prongs of this forked tool enter the holes while they are parallel to each other. First spray WD-40 in the holes with the red tube inserted all the way, then back out 1/8 inch. Do this for each & spray liberally (put towel under to catch the run off). This is not an optional step. As this tool slides in, the top prong will give a nudge near at the 3/4 mark as it passes above or below the tumbler clip. Another 3/4 inch past this, each prong of this forked tool will now, with light wiggling enter into the two detents holes. light wiggling of the collar while doing this will help the release of the detents that are pressing into grove.

All along, I knew it would help to have the collar able to spin. this is done by taking a thin small screw driver & chisling out the notch.. a very small notch - see red arrow.

Ok, this is going to cause some concern for those most versed (who had there chance to give photos & details) but here it goes: The shiney key entrance portion of the tumbler only needs to be in the #1 position for the holes to line up with the ignition switch portion into which the tumbler sits. STUCK KEY? BROKEN KEY? OR JUST CAN'T GET THE IGNITION TO MOVE to position #1? Well, why not just put a big screw driver in the key slot entry & force this front portion of the tumbler to turn (wrench on square shaft of screw driver) to where you want it. It will break from the rest of the tumbler, but heck, you are replacing it anyway with the ebay supplied tumbler ($50) anyway. I was shocked to discover that only the front portion of the tumbler needed to line up with the holes & that mercedes didn't figure this as they put so much effort into their megaGodzilla metal into the collar. I asked and asked this quiestion, and felt a bit stupid in doing so, because I assumed it too easy a way out of this - just force it & snap the front key entry from the rest of the tumbler.. how good is this?

So, after hours of research & drilling & wiggling & figuring, I prayed a new prayer in church, came home & simply inserted the tool again (after more WD-40) wiggled while wiggling (turning) right to left with my plumbers pliers on the collar & suddenly the collar started to turn (the notch had worn down some & one of the detents let loose, I turned further.. with my heart racing in anticipation of my son no longer bugging me to use my car, and low and behold, with a good grip, & a flat head screw driver behind the collar, at the base, it let loose.

I needed to know that there is nothing inside the collar, and that there was a groove in the end. I needed to know that there is no connection between the removal of the tumbler and the hardened collar. I needed to know that only the key entry portion of the tumbler needed to be in position one to get the tool to the end of the collar. I needed to know that my objective was to get the collar off and it would take a pair of pliers wiggling on it while in and out with my spoke - tool to get free it up & that it would still take some light prying to wiggle the collar for the first 3/8 inch. I needed to know that Jesus would be there every step of the way & that I would grow from this & that others would benefit as well.

** Please do not assume your model mercedes is like this - My guess is that the design of the collar is the tell-all, hence the reason for the good photos.

Now you know this, and with this, you can reach satisfaction or failure with much less frustration. Thanks to all who encouraged me to "carry on".

Oh, putting it back on. Put tumbler in collar. Put in key & put to position 1, Slide the tool over the black tumbler clip, then place the assembly into the ignition switch with one hand while depressing the rounded detents in all the way with your fingers, line up the collar notch-out with the ignition switch notch & press into place. Instead, you can press the tool in all the way & try to catch the detents with it, but you are begging for trouble, the detents do fall out & probably will - but they go righ back in. You'll know how to line up the tumbler because the groove in the ignition swich tumbler socket is obviousely placed.

I'm stoked.

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