Well I got it working for about 15 minutes then good bye climate control. I cooked my climate control unit by accident last week trying to diagnose the vacuum system( a wire came loose that cooked my little unit. Black spot on the circuit board proved it.)

Any way I got it working the center nozzles blew some good air. I then proceeded to change my oil and I pulled off one of the vacuum lines that go from the inside of the car to the fuel pump (I would suspect the it may be coming from the ignition but i dont know for sure) Well I got that back on. And now i am back to my old problem of no other air control other than defroster and outside vents.

I vacuum tested the green line that goes to the climate control switchover valves and I have 18lbs of vacuum. I suspect that I may have burnt out some of those switchover valves( I replaced all five so I would not have to deal with this ^*&^%$#.)

I did take a short cut and did not screw them in to the metal backing like I was supposed to. Do they ground through that metal board? DO they get so hot that they will cook if not screwed to that board?

These are the questions I have.

Please help me.

I would think that if I am getting strong vacuum from the primary line that if the switches were working the vacuum elements would work.

Do small leaks effect vacuum function this greatly?

Thanks for all your replies

bob

Check each line after the control solenoid. Any leak more than just slight will cause your actuators to remain closed. The systems are designed to default to defrost in the event of a system failure.
Good Luck

Rocket

Thanks for the quick reply

What do you mean check each line after the control soleniod. Do you mean check each line for leaks vacuum cicuit 1-5 as they go to the elements. They should be good.
Because I check them just earlier today.

Also what constitutes as system failure that would cause it to default to the defrost

I appreciate your help.

thanks

bob

Also

Is there a way to reset the climate control after there was a system failure. I did have the wrong amp fuse in the blower circuit and blew a 16 amp. Now I have the right 30 Amp fuse.

Thanks again

bob

To reset the system try unplugging the batter for a few minutes.

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

Dave

I disconnected the battery and romoved the unit for about an hour but still no luck

thanks for the reply

bob

The Bob,

It would help greatly if we knew the year and model that you're working on.

Have a great day,

Thank you all for your replies.

I found the problem it is my center vacuum element. It is shot. I plugged up the leak with a stop for now and soon I will try to get the new one in. I hear that I have to remove my dashboard. THat does not sound like alot of fun but at least I know the problem.

Larry thanks for your response. It is a 1984 300d
You are famous on this board and we appreciate your guidance.

Happy fourth of July to all

bob

Brother of The Benz, the Blob
You and me Babe.
After 14 years of outstanding service, my 1987 W-124030 300E developed an evaporator core leak.
176,000 miles of expanding and contracting.
After determined conscentration it was decided to replace all things required to renew my Automatic Clomate Control A/C to excellent condition.
It took three days shop time with my technican "Larry", not related to our "Larry Bible."
The heater core was in acceptable condition.
The following were replaced with either M/B new or rebuilt components.
Compressor
Clutch
Drier/reciever
Expansion valve(it came with the evaporator)
Evaporator core
All the vacuum elements
Blower motor assembly
All the seals and gaskets in the evaporator/heater housing.
A lot of small parts, only in size
She will be cooling with R-134A, good-bye R-12
If you intend to drive Her, then you should do her right.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!!

Spiderman

That is a huge bill for some cold air. I am sure that the car is worth it but that is big. I have spared little expense with my new beast the 84 300d with 240000 once I get all this stuff done I should be good to go for another 240000. It is a nice car and I enjoy it so it does not feel so bad to throw more money at it. I did not feel the same about my 82 fiat x19. It too was nice but I hated putting work into it. All repairs in that car was war.

Bye

bob

Brother of The Benz, Bob.
We bought the 1987 300E new.
We are her original parents and she looks as new.
With 176,000 miles and the running gear is original, this repair cost is minimum.
On the tube they advertised a Ford Escort with minimum down payment for $303.00/month for 60 months.
You figure it out.
Someone purchasing a 300E used with similar or lower mileage for about $5000.00, then presented with a repair estimate as my costs were, blows your mind.
For us, Joan and I it's different.
A used car becomes one because it is used and in need of repairs.
We would never get rid of our 300E for such a small repair cost when you consider the options.
I'm still driving a $42,000.00 automobile.
We calculated our debit would clear in 13 months.
Let your dreams weigh the costs.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!!