w210 1999 ASR BAS warning light
 

The BAS ASR warning lights come on sporadically, and not every time I drive the car. I've already replaced the brake light switch. Now I'm down to what? A wheel speed sensor? Or the module?

I am a distance from the dealer and getting there to get the code reading is difficult.

The warning lights come on when it's warm outside and I'm driving slowly, just starting out from a stop, or just putting it in gear to move forward. Quite often I can drive for days without the warning lights.

Any suggestions?

In what condition is your charging system? I have had these lights triggered by low voltage condition on my W210.

I had the battery checked yesterday, and all is well.

Not sure what else to do, minus getting codes checked at the dealer, but I can't do that for at least a week or two since I'm out of town.

Codes are read for free at Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, etc.

My battery and alternator were both brand new and I still had the warning lights triggering. Took the battery out, had it tested, and it was good. Took the alternator out, had it tested, it was good. I narrowed it down to poor grounds (battery was under charging). I'm talking about the braided ground strap to the engine and the ground cable from battery to chassis under the rear seat. All appeared good from the outside, but when I actually unbolted these then massive corrosion was revealed. One year later, I am still running on the same battery and alternator, but the problem hasn't returned due to cleaning up the grounds.

You might wanna look into it if you hit a dead end.

Good and interesting thread. I've had the same thing happen to me. BAS/ABS light came on. I would normally pull over, turn the engine off and then start it back up again and the problem went away.

Sometimes it would come back on again but i think it's just the amount of mods i have. Got the codes cleared from the dealer and all seems to be fine now (knock on wood).

I guess the possibilities when the BAS/ASB light comes on are brake lamp/light switch, accelerator pressure sensor, wheel speed sensor and like what gmercoleza said cleaning the ground/contacts.

Great info guys.

I will definitely check for corrosion. I hadn't really considered it for some reason, but experience has shown me that it can cause a lot of problems.

Thanks for the reminder!

I was able to get the car into a reputable shop. Found that there was no power to the abs module, at all. And code C1332. Replaced k-40 relay to restore power. Cleared codes, test drove. Made it 50 miles without a fault. I suspect the code remains, though I haven't been back yet. I believe the code indicates a faulty solenoid. Can this be replaced without changing the whole ABS block?

I get the BAS ASR error once a while on out '98 E320. . It always just goes away, so I don't worry about it.
Same is true with Lamp Out. I get this, but all lights are working fine. Again, it just goes away. I suspected poor connection in tail lamps, but they look OK.

Checking grounds is probably a good idea and cheap!

The saga continues: The code points to a faulty BAS Solenoid. Indicated: a new brake booster assembly. $1000 installed.

This problem appear intermittant, since the warning lights have now been OFF for over a week. Sticky solenoid? I'm going to keep an eye on it.

You might want to check with modulemasters or bba reman. to see if they rebuild the BAS units. I have heard good things about them rebuilding ABS units from other forums.

From my experience, the auto parts guys can only read/erase check engine light problems, not ABS systems.

At least the ones that I have seen do not have anything more than generic type code checkers.

I had the diagnosis done at Huber's in Minneapolis. They are a certified Bosch service center with all proper diagnostic tools for MB. That's why I went there in the first place. The local indy I usually use can't do the extensive diagnosis.

Now that the lights are off, I'm not going to worry about it. Out of sight, out of mind.

Saga continues. ABS BAS ASR lights back on, and now staying on.

I have read nothing in the forum about brake booster replacement as solving this problem, even though that's what the latest code indicates.

Can anyone give opinion on this? I hate like h**l to replace the booster and then still have the problem...

Thanks in advance.

Does your ABS still work? Easy enough to test...

ABS doesn't work. I did test it...:bomb2:

Finally broke down and took it to the dealer. The previous diagnosis was to replace the brake booster and I just couldn't do without another opinion. Good thing too. It also had started showing "engine fan" message on the display too. That was also related to the short at the connection described below.

Dealer diagnosis: Checked power at PIN 48 on C1000 control module found it to be 5.8 with ignition off and 1.7 with the vehicle started - should be above 12 volts. Found volt drop on circuit 30 - checked x12/3 power distribution connector underhood and found that terminals were loose and slightly dirty - removed all terminals and cleaned with emery cloth - retorqued bolt and checked and volts were 12.34. .75 hours diagnosis and .3 hours to clean contacts. $122.00 total bill.

No more lights on the display for now. But, damn the corrosion. It's a big factor in a car now 8 years old and with 140k miles.

And, my take is that this isn't just a MB issue, most any car is going to have these issues after a few years. - As complex as the wiring is, it's inevitable.

Ever get this one fixed?
 

Were you ever able to get this problem corrected?

He did. Read the post right above yours.

2000 C230 K With Same Issue
 

I am having the same issue. Just this morning just leaving the driveway the trans went into limp mode. Shut the car off and restart it again and the lights went out.All worked well for about 10 miles and the lights came back on. But the trans was working fine. This may go on for a few days to a few miles until the BAS / ABS lights come back on. I have checked the battery, alternator, brake light switch. Grounds are o.k. Any sugestions before I take a hit from the dealer?

Thanks
Mike V.

Did you change the brakelight switch? Try to press the brakepedel and start, does the light come on as you release the pedal? Does your crsecontrol work?

BAS , ESP & ABS Lights
 

Jakob,
Yes I replaced the switch 2 weeks ago and the lights went away but just this past monday they are back and today they are here to stay. I have not tried to press the pedal before start. I will do that tomorow. The cruse control works fine with the lights on. I will let you know on the brake pedal before I start the car in the morning. Thanks for the feed back.

Mike