Ok got it looked at by the local Benz shop...He first adjusted the mixture to the exact place where it should be...He drove it around but ended up not being exact as to where the problem lies.

He put on the notes:
-Test engine found fuel mix to rich
-Adjust fuel mix found kick down
-Cable strut clean and lube cable
-Found rust at Fuel Distributor
-Possible rust inside gas tank

He said in his professional opinion, I should just leave the car alone as it drives fine...it's just the idle that is irratic. But honestly I'm not driving a car that shakes this hard when I pull up to every light.

So you guys think that I should find a nice looking used fuel distributor and replace that first? As for the gas tank, my dad said he can take it into his work and get all the rust off for relatively cheap.

One thing he did while the car was running though...He unscrewed the screws to the Fuel Injectors a little and fluid came out (I am assuming thats the gasoline? Sorry noob)...why did he loosen them? He also was spraying brake cleaner all around the injector lines (I am assuming to check for leaks correct?)

He also said using Costco gas makes the engine rust so use Chevron...I know this isn't the problem...but just wanted to see what you guys also think about that.

I wonder if I will ever be able to get this fixed...

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

You could have it rebuilt . . . or exchanged . . . at "Jaytan". Check MENU#24 toward the bottom for their phone number.

We (Exclusive Motors) sent one to them for rebuilding and it fixed the 'stumbling' in the engine. Prices are reasonable.

Just buying a used one 'could' be ok but it's a crap shoot IMO.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Well I need to have my car in the mean time, so used would be the best option for me. At least if I replaced it with a used...nothing could be worse than I have right now LOL!

I don't understand how he knows that the Fuel Distributor has rust in it...I pulled off the intake and had a look around and I see no rust...?

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

What I meant was there's two (2) ways . . send yours in to be rebuilt or get a rebuilt one from them w/ your old unit as a core. Prices are on their web site.

I don't think that it has 'rust' in it but they are a 'delicate' machine and get 'plugged' easily. When they plug, the car has a steady miss.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

When my 450SL (different car, V8 engine) had an intermittent miss at different speeds, particularly idle, I went through the same process you are determining fuel versus ignition, and after seeing what looked like marginal readings to me on an old Sun LS2000 ignition scope I have, I changed the ballasts and ignition wires on general principle, and then (incorrectly, it turned out) moved on to fuel thinking I had good hot spark on all eight. After quite a bit of head scratching over the fuel injection, I went back and used the old school, old fashioned way of isolating a single cylinder miss and found it was electrical after all. With the car idling, I pulled the plug wires one at a time, listening for whether they changed how it was running. This technique is usually used to isolate whether a single cylinder is completely dead, since the engine will run the same with or without the dead cylinder's ignition wire connected, but in my case I was listening for whether disconnecting some cylinders made it a lot worse while others made it just a little worse. Long story short, I found two different cylinders that made a lot of difference, and then with some horsing around moving whole ignition wires from one cylinder's use to another figured out I had (in my brand new set of factory made to length Bosch replacement ignition wires) not one but two flaky wires. I cut off and remade the plug end on them and the problem was solved. Two morals here. First, if I had taken the car to a shop with a big sensitive ignition scope and a technician who knew how to read it, I am sure the two wire ignition miss would have been visible to a trained eye (even though I couldn't see it on my dim, small LS2000 scope). Second, because my ultimately-ignition-wire fault continued even after changing all the ignition wires, it reminds me that just because a part has been changed doesn't mean it isn't (wasn't) the problem. With other kinds of analysis available, not as many mechanics spend the time to read secondary ignition scopes anymore. Be sure before you rule electrical out entirely that someone has "scoped" the ignition system. A good ignition scope is a good tool for hard to find misses in the right hands. This is the tool "Diesel911" was refering to earlier, and I don't think from your posts that it has necessarily been tried. If you want an idea of what that's all about, look here: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us30224.htm.

Ps2,

I've tracked your car across 3 sites and see no report on your fuel filter condition. Have you determined it's clean or did you remove it and find evidence of tank deposits?

What's the O2 status when out of circuit?

JimF used the term "crap shoot" on the rebuild. He's right, and a proper disclaimer. The car has a troubled history as you've described. Think of what part(s) dates back to the prior owners woes. Things like the F-distrib. do fall in that range but is a guess.

Before ordering a spendy part, you need to recheck the basic stuff. Actual vacuum tests with a gauge. Squirting cans of various products is a method but leaks hide. Fuel pressure readings would be of value.

The O2 sensor is suspicious from contamination how much SeaFoam, Tecroline and other VooDoo chemicals has she drank? Is the EGR valve stuck open? There still are some easy but critical tests.