Alternator Diagram For 1990 190e 2.6
 

You should try using a larger/brighter font -- I couldn't quite read it. :rolleyes:

What was the question you were asking?

Why do you say it your alternator? they use to be very robusts.
isn't rather the regulator? (much cheaper)

good luck

do you have a diagram or can you tell me how i can replace my alternator? im a med student and dont really work on cars, but i think i can figure it out with a little help.

thanks

Sorry, my first post came off as snarky rather than funny. (But you gotta admit, you kinda asked for it with that HUGE red font.)

If you find that your alternator is indeed the problem, here's some helpful info:

Click on the "DIY Articles" tab at the top of this page. (BTW: these DIY articles are a Godsend for a home mechanic.)
The third article covers changing the belt on a 103 engine -- that's the inline 6 cylinder in your car.

Remove the belt as indicated, unplug the connector in the back of the alternator, then remove the two bolts that are holding it in place.

Reverse procedure for installation.
It's just like a kidney transplant... only for your car. Break out your copy of Gray's Anatomy for reference -- every place it says "kidney", just substitute the word "alternator". :D

Seriously though, you can pick up a copy of the Haynes manual at any NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc.. It's not as good as an MB shop manual, but for $16 it's a great resource -- especially when used in conjunction with this forum.

Good luck.

jp

As cc260 mentioned, the alternators rarely are actually "bad". They might not be putting out the voltage, but often the only issue is that the brushes inside have worn down and are no longer making proper contact to conduct the electricity needed.
If there was no loud bearing squeal or audible grinding involved before the alternator stopped working, you might consider changing out the regulator brush assembly. It is about $30 and a 15 minute job with 2 small screws. it is worth a shot if the failure was just sudden and didnt included any drama like noises ot locking up and eatting the belt.
The part I am refering to is on the back side of the alternator and is usually a black metal round disk mounted on a white or grey palstic oblong plate with two screws, one on each end. Remove the two screws and rotate the assembly out of the alternator housing. The carbon brushes are inside and will be mounted on springs. You should be able to see the wear on them easily. Good luck.

thank you all for your input on helping me to get my alternator up and running. i will obviously try the simplest task first which is to check the brushes and see if this works....if not i will proceed to replace the alternator. one question: do i need to remove the radiator or fan in order to get to the alternator? its a little different from surgery where you can just cut right through everything.:)

ps: feel free to send me an instant msg on my aim: tonymobile2004. i am always signed on and i am constantly on the go so im rarely at home in front of my computer....thank goodness for blackberries and sidekicks!

thanks.

Remove the 6 10mm screws that hold the plastic pan to the bottom of the engine compartment and you can get right to the back of the alternator. There might be a heat shield or a plastic cover on the back side but you should be able to get at it from the underside with no problems with the drip pan removed.

:rolleyes:Now that's even more snarky than mine. (...and somehow that makes me feel better) :confused:

hahah yeah start with the simple stuff like the brushes then the voltage regulator then the alt itself

thanks again for all your help....it was the brushes (or the voltage regulator). so everything worked out just great. the benz is back in business. thank you all for helping me get this all squared away.....i just saved about $200.00!!!!!:)