Subframe Bushing Help
 

I'm replacing the subframe bushings on my 1990 300D and have hit a snag in my task. I am upgrading the rear bushings from standard (124-351-02-42) to sportline (129-351-14-42). The dealership has told me that the 129-351-14-42 has been superceded by 202-351-09-42. The problem is that the mounting hardware (124-350-67-08) will not work with this new superceded bushing.

Does anyone know where else this bushing (202-351-09-42) is used?

Update!

I looked at a 202.038 model where this is used and found kit P/N 202-350-34-08 with bolt P/N 202-990-05-04, spacer P/N 007-989-01-42-01, and washer P/N 202-352-00-46.

Does anyone have experience with this problem, or have a solution?

2nd Update

Dealer is ordering Kit P/N 202-351-09-42 and I should know by Friday. This will be important info for those who are going to do sportline bushings in the future on their W124s. The kit is supposedly used in the 190 16V?!?!?! The bushing originally used by the 190 16V was P/N 201-351-28-42 and has been superceded by 202-351-09-42.

Kit will include bolts and washers so hardware kit 124-350-67-08 is not required.

To be continued....

W124 Subframe Sportline Bushings
 

There in and picked them up this morning. Thread penetration looks good. Bolt threads are the same. Looks to be a winner!

The kit part number is 202-350-34-08. This kit contains the new bushing 202-351-09-42 and also the hardware. I tried to purchase the fasteners, spacer, and washer separately, but would require shipment from Germany.

So if you plan on upgrading to Sportline subframe bushings, this is what you need now.

The task is done. Had the car aligned this morning and it handles great! Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

Also note that you do not need the spacers if you are replacing all of the fastening hardware as it is already 12MM. Spacers are required only if you are going to reuse the original 10MM bolts with the new links.

:)

Sounds good, James! BTW - spacers may still be needed with the new hardware for 3 of the five rear links. The bolts are 12mm, but the hole in the rear wheel carrier is something like 13 or 14mm. The spacer reduces the clearance to near zero between the new Torx-head bolts, and the bolt hole in the carrier. While you can put it all together without the spacers, there is a possibility of some slight movement afterwards.

Also (note to others), remember that you MUST NOT tighten ANY of the links (at either end!) without the wheel carrier at the normal ride height ("ready to drive" position). Since this is basically impossible to do with the car resting on the wheels, I remove the rear spring, and use a jack to lift the rear hub up to the normal ride height (for my Sportline car, this is approx 14.25 inches from the fender lip to the hub/wheel center). With the hub in position, then you can tighten all 10 nuts for the 5 links. If you don't do this, the rubber will be under tension with the car at rest, prematurely wearing out the bushings, AND messing up the rear suspension performance (would be similar to reducing rebound damping and adding compression damping). While the same concept applies for the front suspension, this is normally "cured" when the car is aligned, since the nuts have to be loosened & re-tightened as part of the alignment procedure. This does NOT happen for the rear suspension though.

:scholar: