w124 88 300TE - How can I check EGR Valve?
 

Hi guys,

How can I check the EGR valve to see if its stuck open or not? Does my 1988 300TE have one? I'm not sure if my year has one or not.

Any help would be appreciated.

On a side note...are there any books for my w124 that explain how to do all this stuff? I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't mention the EGR or O2 Sensor.

Thanks,

You will have a terrible time checking the EGR on an 88 300e of any kind, as they don't have one.

Get a set of manuals on CD (they are available from several sources). Haynes manuals are pretty much useless beyond changing oil, belt, or brake pads, and may not even help much there.

What makes you think the (non-existent) EGR is stuck open?

Peter

Horrible misfire at idle. I have been posting on a few forums and someone mentioned that a closed EGR valve is fine, but one stuck open can produce a rough idle.

That's why I posted here to see if my 88 has an EGR Valve. Trying to slowly track down my misfire. Going to replace my O2 sensor tomorrow (has been replaced, but I'm sure its tarnished due to my bad valve stem seals.... so not expecting misfire to stop, but I need to replace it personally.

The leading causes of misfire at idle are bad ignition wires (and cap and rotor) and vacuum leaks. Check the idle control valve hoses (probably rock hard and leaking), boot between the air flow meter housing on the fuel distributor and the throttle body, and injector seals along with injector sleeve seals.

Injector seal leaks will cause bad idle because the computer and fuel distributor cannot control the mixture properly. Sadly, excess valve guide clearance will also cause serious idle problems for the same reason -- unmetered air so it runs way too lean.

A bad OVP relay will also cause rough idle, so will a bad fuel pump relay!

Peter

We have changed OVP and Non-Resistor Spark Plugs, Wires...cap and rotor appear to be good, but how can we test it to be sure? We have done the ICV hoses too.
Previous owners replaced the Injectors + Seals for sure as we have the receipt from it.

I was trying to do the vacuum leak test using the O2 sensor but I was getting no reading on my multimeter at all...This is the guide I used: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103VacuumLeak
So I am assuming the O2 sensor is dead...

There are so many things I don't know where to start :(