HELP! w124 no start no click
 

My son's Volvo was in the shop so I let him take the 95 E320 to school. He proceeded to leave the lights on and completely deplete the battery. The battery is some Econo-power off brand with a sticker that says new in 11/06. It's the right battery - just a cheap one.

I tried jumping it and got all lights on but nothing when the key is turned to start. Not even a click. So I pulled the battery and charged it over night. By 5:00 this morning it was reading over 75% charged so I went back to the car and hooked it up and it behaved exactly the same. No start, not even a click with the key in the start position.

The only clue I have is that the alarm light on the dash is flashing and there is a ticking that sounds like a turn signal relay clicking under the right side of the dash. Could the alarm system be locking us out? Unfortunately, I have to work under the assumtion that if anything could have been done wrong, that's the way he did it.

Where should I start? A new battery? Call AAA and have it towed to the dealer? Call AAA and have it towed home?

If anyone has had this problem before I would really appreciate your expert advice. I am desperate to get my car out of the high school parking lot.

Thanks to all.

I would call AAA and have it towed home... I think in your angst you are overlooking something.

Connections? Why don't you try to jump it off again. Also sounds a little like a neutral safety switch issue...but those two problems are independent of each other...

leaning toward the tow home
 

Thanks, Lee

Angst is definitely the word! The neutral safety switch was working before he depleted the battery... but who knows?

I am wondering if when he unlocked it with the battery dead, the mechanical lock opened the door but the alarm system thinks it has been compromised and has locked out the starter. I don't know if the 95 E320 alarm is this sophisticated or how one would reset it. I do know that I never saw the alarm light flash before and never heard that ticking under the dash before either.

If it is a bad neutral safety switch, it might start with the shift selector in Neutral. To try this, insert key and turn to run position, then shift to N, then try to start. (keep foot on brake when in N--car will roll if parked on hill.......) Lots of searchable info on this problem.

Have you tried locking and unlocking the car with whatever method you normally use (remote control etc) with the battery connected. This method has worked on my previous cars to reset the immobiliser.

I should have mentioned that we did try to start it in both Park and Neutral.

Someone I work with suggested I disconnect the battery and lock all the doors, then connect the battery and unlock them to re-synch the alarm system in case that is the culprit. Kind of makes sense...

Take the battery to an independent auto battery dealer and have it load tested. I have seen some weird stuff happen with cheap batteries. Also check the fuses and connections over. This HAS to be something simple.

Kids do stupid things because they know you will bail them out :( Maybe that will have to be the last time he borrows your ride for awhile?

If my '95 E320 was in a high school parking lot right now, you can bet I'd have it flat-bedded home. Crazy stuff happens in those parking lots.

-GH

now you're scaring me GH
 

I was pleasantly surprised this morning to see that the star was still on the hood.

I can't do anything about it until school is out this afternoon (an I am off work) The plan is to:

-Try resetting the doorlocks / alarm
-Try starting with the battery out of the loop
-call AAA for a tow home.
-take the battery to be tested

I wish I could figure out what that ticking sound is... hard to do from my desk.

There is a simple test to check if the problem lies with the starter itself or the control circuitry. I don't remember all the details, but it involves the three pin connector located on the firewall just above the brake fluid reservoir. One of the three wires from this connector carries a "starter engage" signal to the starter solenoid. The test involves connecting a voltmeter, then turning the key to check for the presence of the signal. Again, I don't remember details or specifics, but I know this has been presented in the past by Mr. Dalton or MB DOC.......

good luck

J. M. van Swaay

amp rating of #5 fuse?
 

I'll pick up fuses on the way home but need to know what rating/color for the #5.

After reading Arthur Dalton's X27 thread it looks like I may be able to get it to start by jumpering some wires on the x27? It would be great if I could get it out of the school parking lot and home this way.

Have to print out that thread so I can remember which wires to jumper.

Thanks all for your help.

Just bring 12 v. + to the center terminal of X 27.. That should crank the starter.
Make sure car is in "P"

Thank you Arthur Dalton!
 

The battery is replaced and the starter was still locked out. Fuses 5, 6, 7 and B were also replaced and it remained locked out. I tried locking and unlocking several times to no avail. Then I followed Mr Dalton's expert instructions to run a jumper from + to the X27 center pin and it started right up. It drove quite well for the 5 miles home and is in my driveway. What a relief! That's the good news.

The bad news is that the alarm light still flashed all the way home along with the turn signal-like clicking under the passenger side of the dash. The alarm light had never come on before so I assume it had never armed for the 6 months I owned it and has now re-awakened somehow.

In June while the alarm system was not working I swapped out the factory radio for a Blaupunkt. Could this have anything to do with it? Is there a way to reset the alarm? Is it something a dealer could do?

Thanks again! It is really a relief to have the car home.

Pull fuse #5 and see if ATA light goes out.

walked my son through pulling fuse #5 over the phone
 

With fuse #5 pulled the ATA light is still flashing. Having not done it myself I am not 100% sure he pulled the right one but pretty certain.

What does this mean?

[QUOTE=tbenner;1681520]With fuse #5 pulled the ATA light is still flashing. Having not done it myself I am not 100% sure he pulled the right one but pretty certain.

What does this mean?


It means go pull the #5 fuse before I go any further...I assume Nothing