Well, after a couple of years of talking about it...i am going to do valve stem seals on two of the three cars.

Here comes stupid question 1.

Where does the 27 mm socket attach to to turn the engine?

Other stupid questions to follow.

I have read and re-read the posts, so hopefully there won't be too many questions.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I believe it goes on the nut on the front of the crankshaft.

Please post what spring compressor you use.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Lee,
Are you going to use the oem seal kit or aftermarket? If not oem, which brand are you going to install?

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

Well I am done...and will answer the questions in a minute.

It took close to 6 hours. I had to figure out how to properly use the spring compressor...and had to get the concept of beating on the spring to separate the collets from the valve stem.

I also thought it was worth my time do take off the fan, to give me easier access to the 27mm bolt... it is worth the 20 minutes to disassemble and reassemble

The spring compressor I used was a loaner from an auto parts place. It worked fine until the valve by the transmission dip stick... even taking out the bolt holding the dipstick did not give me clearance to turn the compressor. So I cheated.... 11 valves were done. I am looking at this as a warm up for the 300CE (I did the 260e with 213k miles on it).

What bothers me a bit is that the valve seals seemed ok... they were a bit hard, but other than that fine. I was going through a lot of oil...and some of that I attribute to a valve cover gasket and some possibly to the oil filler cap.

I got the kit from ********az.. i get 90% of my parts from them

I guess I am more concerned that the old seals were ok...and I am getting closer to needing the head re-done... the truth is.. I only paid
1325 for the 260e last year.... and I won't spend the money to have the head re-done.... it's essentially a spare car that I have taken under my wing.
(6k miles this year).

I also didn't take a fellow members advice...RonInSC... he said to get two hoses that were likely to be fried... one is... and I will have to order one.

Other than that the car is fine. I will have to report on oil consumption going forward.... it could be a while since I don't drive the car all too often.

We will do the CE in a few weeks. It goes through a quart at 650 miles... I am hoping seals will change that to 2k miles.

All 3 of the 124's are great cars...if you do DIY. We haven't been to a tech at all...

it is all due to the people on this board...

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Seems to me that it's really only necessary to do the seals on the intake valves anyway. The valve you couldn't get to was an exhaust valve, wasn't it?

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Mine were also intact but hardened. Changing them cured the oil consumption problem.

Andrew
1989 190e 2.6