Need to know how to install myself without getting ripped off by mechanic




also would this problem cause my car to staul at low rpms

The rear muffler of my car is due but I think it is not a DIY job unless one can weld, and most of us don't have the skill and equipment. I'd be happy to hear otherwise.

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1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

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1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE

I did the center one on my first (still owned) 124 and the rear on the second (still owned) 124. Number three has required no attention to the exhaust.

Mine were clamped together so perserverance was the key. Did not have to cut or break welds. That said, I hear some "puttering" from one of them and am considering crawling under there with my Oxy/Ac and fixing it properly.

You can do this at home. Save a couple hundred bucks, but it generally ain't fun.

__________________
W108M117(1972) repaired after deer hit
W124M103(1987)
W124M103(1989) -- sold to son's friend
W124M119(1993) --
W124M103(1987 -- 5 speed Euro) - sold to forum member
W124M103(1989) -- TE
W123OM616(1977)
W201M103(1990) parts car

It all depends. You will probably need a hand held grinder with metal cutting wheel to cut the old rusted bolts off. You may then need to drill out the cut bolts from the clamp of the catalytic converter. Then you will need to separate the rear pipe from the center pipe... joint could be rusted fast. But rear muffler may also be ready to go. In that case just cut the pipe and remove both old mufflers and install new.
Do you think you can handle that? If not find trusted mechanic.

)

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Earl



1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra

I think if i was doing this job... i would make it easier on myself by doing an entire cats back installation.

i think it would be simpler and give you the peace of mind knowing you were good for another 10 years.

__________________
1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Ditto what Lee said. If one's bad, the other can't be far behind.

While you're under there, do them both. You definately need the ability to cut the bolts. I used a Dremel and it worked great. The bolts in the cat were a major pain. I had to heat, drill, then drive them out with a punch.

And about your stalling issue: No, the muffler will have no affect on that.

__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

did the rear muffleryear its perfect need info on connections to cat and rear

The center muffler connects to the rear muffler with a simple slip-fit, and a common exhaust clamp. The connection to the cat is 2 bolts/nuts that compress the flanges and seal with a metal ring.

__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

So there is no welding involved? Nice to know. Next time I'll crawl under the car to be certain of it .

__________________
1996 E320 since 1/16/08, 171K miles as of Feb 2011

---------------------------------------------------------
1989 300CE - R.I.P. Dec 29 2007
Other MBs (sold): 1992 300E-24 - 1979 350SLC - 1984 230E - 1990 300CE

Actually, it depends.

These cars came from factory with center and rear muffler all one piece.

Generally, the rear fails first, and Mercedes replacements are separate pieces, meaning the original rear is cut off and a new rear installed as you state.

If the original poster's car has had a replacement rear installed and installed correctly, i.e. not welded for heaven's sake, the installation will have been fairly recent and separating the two at the new joint shouldn't be too difficult.

If not, then he will have to accurately cut the two parts apart.

It's a VERY good idea to join these pieces with some antiseize compound put in there.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

There should NEVER be welding done on a Mercedes exhuast system.

Welding is for Model Ts and their descendants, i.e. American cars.

If the mechanic you visits suggests welding, he isn't a Mercedes mechanic.

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

My 108 4.5 still has the original welded exhaust...

__________________
W108M117(1972) repaired after deer hit
W124M103(1987)
W124M103(1989) -- sold to son's friend
W124M119(1993) --
W124M103(1987 -- 5 speed Euro) - sold to forum member
W124M103(1989) -- TE
W123OM616(1977)
W201M103(1990) parts car

I want to thank each and everyone of you people who took the time to help me with a problem that could have costed me hundereds more. I bought the part for 128$ and am going to do it myself thanks to the info given to me by you on a side note this isn't the first time I have relied on this site to give me help when i need it. Its hard being a 23 year old benz enthusiast and poor as well.. I will keep posting and will lproboble need more help when i get to the install