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Cruise Control Symptoms: Please Diagnose
With respect to a malfunctioning cruise control, my understanding is that, if the switch or actuator is bad, the cruise control simply won't work.
My symptoms are as follows: when cruise control is engaged, the car lurches intermittently: speeds up, slows down, speeds up, slows down, OR it gradually accelerates and then slows down. This happens whether I push lever up (accelerate position) or pull in (set current speed position). Whenever I disengage the CC, it successfully disengages. From everything I've read, it seems like a VIRTUAL CERTAINTY that I have a bad amp that needs to be repaired or replaced. Do you agree? Thanks.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#2
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I agree. Re-solder the PCB, or send it to a rebuilder. I've seen rebuilt units on EBay for around $140.00 + shipping.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
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cdplayer
Not wanting to step on any toes here, but I read a post in this forum, way back, that described the ill effect using the wrong brand of brake light bulbs had on the Mercedes cruise control system.
Use only Oshram or Bosch brand bulbs. Just plugging in an 1157 bulb from Auto Zone or Pep Boys will cause the cruise to shut down. These bulbs(1157) are not designed to supply a critical ground to the cruise control circut. This seems rather odd. But after I replaced a burned out brake light with one I had on hand, my cruise began acting up. Lurching,not activating,accelerating without leveling off, etc. I didn't realize the bulb cause until I read the post. After replacing the "new" bulb with a Oshram, I had cruise control again. |
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It's hard to imagine the brand of bulbs could make a difference. At any rate, I'm not an EE, so who knows? I do have a few "off brand" bulbs in there. But, in my case, they were in there for some time (as in years) with cruise control working fine. From those who claim bulbs make a difference, my impression is that the malfunction woudl be immediate and consistent.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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It's not the bulb. Your amp is the problem. Bulbs will cause a problem when there is a crack in the filament. Many bulbs work with cracked filaments and you don't know there is a problem until they fail completely. However when the bub is not lit vibration causes a high resistance / intermittent resistance path to ground to the cruise control amp and can make it twitchy. And another thing - bulb brands do not matter as long as the right wattage is used.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
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I would bet the farm, if I owned it, that the amp is bad, seen it many times, actually my 16v is doing it right now. Resloder the connections yourself and it will work again most every time, take your time, use a fine point solder iron and it will be all good. Even after a rebuild shop does the work for the tune of $150 or more, they can go bad again, ask me how I know. i have several in the shop and I solder them up as needed. I have done it 4 or 5 times and it fixed the amp each time. Good luck, dont be afraid of the task, the amp is already bad, it cant really get "more bad". Never heard the bulb issue.
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Christopher Henkel 1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD 1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze 1993 300CE - SOLD 2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red |
#7
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Honda Odyssey 2003
I may have the Amp problem some are discussing. Can someone tell me where the Amp is located? I do a lot of electronics work and have fixed a lot of problems with re-soldering.
Thanks Jay Beckham Berkeley Springs, WV |
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i have the same problems with mine too, sometimes it works fine, other time nahh
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86 300E - 150K E63 = DREAM CAR |
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Mercedes [Odyssey](?)
Jay,
Which model "Mercedes"(We may be able to help you with that) (If the Honda has a "Cruise Amp",it is not allowed to go "Bad") [If it does someone in Edo commits ritual suicide,for shaming the company] BenzGang, The "Picture" is your CC amp.[N4] (under dash) (The pedal in the picture is your brake pedal) The "Drawing" is the CC relay .[K12/1] (the tray in the foreground should be the battery tray)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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