Magnetic finger ?

[briandownunda]

I am getting ready to do a valve stem replacement on my 87 560SL. Do I need the "magnetic finger" tool to remove the valve cone halves ? What does this tool really do ?

Also, I am thinking of borrowing a valve spring compressor from autozone or advance auto......should this tool work OK for me, if I use duct tape as mentioned in previous posts ?

Also, I am trying to make up my own attachment to pressurize the cylinders...I have a regulator with guage, but will need to, somehow, go from a 1/4" NPT fitting to a standard spark plug fitting....any ideas on how to do that ?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

[mbdoc]

Any small magnet will do.

[lee polowczuk]

I used a 3 dollar magnetic finger from Harbor Freight....

borrowed the spring compressor from autozone... purchased the air fitting... and a separate fitting that has a whistle attached to it...it helped locate TDC

the bulky spring compressor did not allow me to get to the exhaust valve on the last cylinder. So I only replaced 11 valve stem seals on my 124's. the SL may be different

time consuming, but not difficult job.

don't know anything about duct tape

[cummins]

Autozone sells the sparkplug adapter kits also.
Just any little magnet will work, all it is for is to pick the keepers out of the grooves since they are fairly small.
Duct tape?? What for?
It is a fairly simple job, Just takes time.

[tvpierce]

I don't know what car/engine you have -- you really should add that to your signature for the sake of accuracy/clarity in future posts.

I used the loaner tool from the auto parts store (like the one in the image below). It worked perfectly. I did bend the center tines in (silver part, not the metal hook part) very slightly to allow them to seat better on the springs. You'll see what I mean when you have the tool.

On my 102 engine (4 cyl) I was able to access all the springs very easily. I presume those who had trouble with the rear-most springs have the 103/6 cylinder?

I highly recommend "the rope trick" vs compressed air to hold the valves. Mine required a significant smack with a hammer, using a long socket extension for a drift. If compressed air was all that was holding them, I'm quite certain that I would have dropped some into the cylinders.

That was my experience. Good luck, it is actually an easy job. Once you get into it, you'll wonder why you put it off so long.

[lee polowczuk]

i used to different ones on my 103's . the one in the picture i used the second time.

In each case, i couldn't turn the knob easily to get to the exhaust valve by the transmission dipstick.

i figured 11/12 ain't bad. the 260e is not a "forever" car. When it comes time to get the 300CE done again... it will get the complete valve job

I smacked as well.... but the compressor held the valve.. of course i was also at tdc.

I did have on scare: I smacked one of the valves a bit too hard and the whole spring popped off.... valve stayed in place

[donbryce]

Originally Posted by briandownunda

Also, I am trying to make up my own attachment to pressurize the cylinders...I have a regulator with guage, but will need to, somehow, go from a 1/4" NPT fitting to a standard spark plug fitting....any ideas on how to do that ?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

I took an old sparkplug, broke out the inside ceramics, brazed a fitting onto the end, attached a 6" piece of rubber hose and a valve (so I didn't have to go over to the compressor to turn the air on/off) with a hose clamp, and another fitting/hose clamp on the end of the hose to fit my airline. The hose makes it easier to thread the plug into the hole.
I made my own spring compressor from pipe, washers, 1/4" rod, and an old clevis pin/yoke. It helped that I borrowed my buddy's copy of the real MB tool.

[meltedpanda]

My 2 cents
I agree with the rope trick method. I had to futz around with mine so much and had several that required some significant wacks. Plus getting th episton to TDC to hold air was a PIA. I have a large compressor and it ran alot and was noisey, I was crazy by the time I finished.

[donbryce]

I don't understand why several have mentioned 'whacking' the valve (or keepers/retainer/spring?). Must be peculiar to using the type of spring compressor, I guess. I just pushed down real hard on the retainer, exposing the keepers, then gently fished them out with tweezers.
Regarding the rope vs. air, I'd think the piston should be at TDC in either case, so if the valve should drop, it would never go far enough to fall completely out of the guide. There's a simple chart to tell which pistons are at TDC at the same time, so you only need to rotate the crank 4 times, IIRC.
The only issue I had using air (aprox. 120lbs) was opening the valve gently enough so as to not rotate the engine past the desired TDC point....but I'm just a DIY'er, so I guess to each his own.

[lee polowczuk]

I think my cheap spring compressor had something to do with this. If you had the right spring compressor..and could really compress most of the spring.... the keeper do come right out..

but with my spring compressor... the spring barely got compressed enough and the keeper wouldn't free on their own...except in two or three cases when i got the compressor on the lowest part of the spring.

the very thought of losing a valve kept me from doing this job for nearly two years... but in the end it was no big deal. Of course I had the piston at top dead center and compressed air
running...

the other poster was right...in between i had to shut the compressor down... it was driving me crazy... i did this job in my garage.

[briandownunda]

Has any one ever dropped a valve keeper and not found it ? I am scared that i may have gone somewhere it shouldn't have. Any war stories with this ? Just curious.

Thanks !

[meltedpanda]

I have dropped a few, good to have a pair of long needle nose handy or a good set of forceps and a magnet bar all of which can cone in handy, good light is a plus.
I cover up all the areas they can fly, like the timing chain area and the bowels of the manifold.
Why - because I learned the hard way