Coming from you, I'll take it that the bearings were done properly. :)

Thank you. I shot them with a Vivitar 8.1 MP camera set in macro mode. I was surprised at their quality as well. You ought to see them at full resolution. They're pretty impressive.

If In Doubt Pull The Wheel!!!
 

I have been a mechanic all my life and I have worked on everything from fancy cars to big class 8 road trucks and everything in between, when someone asked how do you tell if a wheel bearing is going bad, I think of all the thousands of wheel bearings and races I have installed over the many years of working on vechicles. If your going down the hwyway and you hear a rumble and you feel shaking in the steering wheel and then you see your wheel pass you by you have a bad wheel bearing, Don't laugh at this, IT DOES HAPPEN. But it doesn't have to happen, now my next question is why do most people like these forums, most people read to learn, and and there is no such thing as a stupid question, My reason is I have been a mechanic all my life and there isn't a day that goes by that I don't learn something new, somebody always has a better way to do something. THE ONLY WAY TO CHECK A WHEEL BEARING IS TO REMOVE THE WHEEL AND REMOVE THE HUB AND THE REMOVE HUB SEAL AND THEN REMOVE THE BEARINGS AND WASH THEM IN A PARTS CLEANER AND VISUALY CHECK THE BEARINGS FOR WEAR, if they are worn you will see pits and discoloration on races and bearing rollers, now after inspecting the bearings you find nothing wrong you do need to repack the bearings properly if you don't know how to do this then I suggest you buy a bearing packer or learn to do it with the palm of your hand, there is a right way and a wrong way. Now if I had 85.000 miles on my car I would just invest in brand new wheel bearings they come with races and are fairly . cheap. so if you want to learn do it yourself if not take it to a shop it.s called Maintenance. Jerry, Master Certified ASE Mechanic

Jerry, If you'll look at the pictures I posted, you'll notice that it looks like the bearings have been freshly done. The wheel turns smoothly, and the free play I described appears to be caused by the bad lower control arm bushings, not the bearings.

As a former aerospace mechanic with 12 years of experience, I also know a little bit about "maintenance." Quit being so angry. Sheesh....:rolleyes:

Nice pictures.

The bearing looks ok - since it is exposed, I would probably clean and repack it, if I had the grease on hand. (but if I didn't, I wouldn't be worried about it).
That rear bushing sure does look rotten.
I don't know how much of a PITA the sway bar bushing would be, but if it doesn't look terribly difficult, I would get new ones. If does does look like a pita, then I would wait to replace them, along with other parts that will be replaced in the future.

Well looks like I was right.:D;) Those wheel beearings look fine, if you are really picky like me repack them, or just leave them alone. That grease looks like new.

However those LCA bushings need replacement. Typical W140 problem, first thing I checked when I went W140 shopping with my friend a couple years ago.

Everything I have read says they are a real pain to replace. For anyone who as done it, would you do it again if you had to? (Want to stop by and give me a hand?:D) Also, while I'm in there I may as well do sway bar bushings & links too, right?

Finally, looking at pricing from Phil's online store I find this:

Sway Bar bushing kit: 2ea @ $114.66
Tool required to replace them (eBay): $199.00
TOTAL $428.32

OR


Entire lower control Arms 2ea @ $261.20
(includes bushings already installed)
TOTAL $522.40



For $100 more I get two brand new lower control arms as well! I'm kind of leaning towards the second option....