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  #1  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:25 PM
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W126 Rear differential leak

When I moved my 560SEL today, I noticed several stains on my cement, notably under where the rear axle was. It smelled like gear lube. Where are the most common spots to leak on these cars?

Thanks, Dave

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  #2  
Old 02-22-2008, 08:01 AM
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There are 3 seal rings< any & all leak at some point & time.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2008, 08:36 AM
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I've seen the gasket on the rear of the differential leak as well, but that appears to be much less likely than the seals.
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:00 PM
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Okay, sorry it took so long to get back with you guys, but I lifted up the car today, and the lube appears to be leaking from where the passenger driveaxle enters the differential casing. What is involved in replacing that seal? Oh, I saw a set of coil springs under the car when I went under it ??? Shouldn't there be hydrostruts on a 560SEL?

Thanks, Dave
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Old 02-28-2008, 12:14 AM
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The hydropneumatic struts replace the shock absorbers, but you would still have springs, just differently rated than the ones on the non hydraulic suspension. (at least on the 123 cars I've heard that the spring rate is different...)

I don't know what goes into replacing the seal on the output shaft from theh diff, maybe one of the others will comment on this.
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2008, 01:43 AM
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I'm guessing you'll have to remove the passenger side CV-axle to replace the seal. With the axle off it should be quite easy to get at the seal. Then just reinstall the axle, fill the diff back up with oil, and you'll be set.
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  #7  
Old 02-28-2008, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I'm guessing you'll have to remove the passenger side CV-axle to replace the seal. With the axle off it should be quite easy to get at the seal. Then just reinstall the axle, fill the diff back up with oil, and you'll be set.
I don't have a service manual for this car (I still can't get a CD from MBUSA), and, I've never replaced a CV-Shaft before. How do you go about it? I'm assuming that you have to remove the rear wheel hub assembly, then work the CV axle out? Any suggestions, instructions, or pdf's of the manual would be greatly appreciated.

Dave
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:07 PM
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After cleaning off the differential housing case, I took her for a short test drive. When I got her back up in the air, I could clearly see that the gear lube was coming from where the passenger side output shaft leaves the tranny. How hard is it to pull the output shaft/cv axle so I can get to the seal?

Dave
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  #9  
Old 02-28-2008, 05:51 PM
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Its actually not all that hard.

Raise rear of vehicle (or whole vehicle if you have a lift) off the ground, having removed passenger side wheel. In the center of the rear hub you will see a nut. Loosen/remove that, it holds the axle into the splined socket on the rear wheel assembly.

Remove the rear cover on the differential/drain fluid. Find the c-clip on the inside of the diff that holds the CV axle in place, remove clip. the axle should have enough side to side play with the car raised up that you can slide it out of one of the ends (either diff or wheel) by moving it back and forth.

The seal should be easily replaced with the cv axle out of the way.

Reinstallation is the reverse of this.

For a more detailed process of it with pics, do a search on the forum for "CV axle replacement" etc...doing some searching will find you some great threads on this. Also, they are likely listed in the "wiki/DIY threads" part of the forum.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2013, 11:37 PM
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My differential was leaking slowly. After cleaning things up I saw the leak was coming from the fill plug. The culprit was the crush washer:



However, I noticed a slight sucking / slurping sound after I pulled the car up on ramps. I had just driven home from work, so the differential was warm and was now cooling. This made me suspect the vent. Sure enough, it was plugged solid.



Plugged vent on the left, working vent from my spare diff on the right. Even the non plugged vent was quite grubby. When you change the fluid I would recommend removing the vent and cleaning it.

Thanks,

-Jason
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  #11  
Old 11-19-2013, 03:14 AM
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Is there anything inside the vent? Is there gauze or summit like that?
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2013, 03:46 PM
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From what I could see it's sort of like a muffler, there are alternating chambers to keep the gear oil from splashing out.

-J
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2013, 07:22 PM
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If you go through all the trouble pulling a shaft, I would just do all the seals. I would also swap shafts from side to side if there is any wear on them. Its a good "cheat" to get more life out of them.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Its actually not all that hard.

Raise rear of vehicle (or whole vehicle if you have a lift) off the ground, having removed passenger side wheel. In the center of the rear hub you will see a nut. Loosen/remove that, it holds the axle into the splined socket on the rear wheel assembly.

Remove the rear cover on the differential/drain fluid. Find the c-clip on the inside of the diff that holds the CV axle in place, remove clip. the axle should have enough side to side play with the car raised up that you can slide it out of one of the ends (either diff or wheel) by moving it back and forth.

The seal should be easily replaced with the cv axle out of the way.

Reinstallation is the reverse of this.

For a more detailed process of it with pics, do a search on the forum for "CV axle replacement" etc...doing some searching will find you some great threads on this. Also, they are likely listed in the "wiki/DIY threads" part of the forum.
Note that the car in question, 1986 SEL, is equipped with "Lobro" type inner CV joints which bolt to the stub shafts of the diff (six bolts). By unbolting them, as well as the wheel hub bolt, they may then be dropped from the stub shaft flange and the axle slid out of the wheel hub. Much easier than the older, homokinetic style. Once the axle shaft is out, then the diff cover is removed, the c-clip pulled, the stub shaft removed, and the seal pried out.
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2013, 10:32 AM
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This thread was posted 2008 and the OP hasn't logged in since that year

(Remember, it is always better to post in an existing thread then to start a new one!)

Looked things over again, no more leaks

-J

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