lifting an M103 by the oil pan
 

What's the proper way to lift an M103 by the oil pan? I read not to use a jack directly on the alloy pan. I also read to put some wood between the jack and the pan (generic, not specific to M103). However, the bottom of my pan isn't flat, it's concave.

In the absence of advice, I set a section of 2x4 on the jack, then a big thick sweater folded several times. No, my engine isn't that clean, it's a throwaway sweater.

Is there a way to lift the engine with a jack with less risk of damaging the oil pan?

And that's my hat trick of new threads for today :)

Thanks,
Sixto
91 300SE

I have lifted an M103 engine from the pan using 2 wood 2x4s between the jack and the pan. I was replacing worn engine mounts. The bottom of the pan does not appear concave, but rather flat.

Watch for clearance and alignment of other items like radiator hoses and the fan when lifting.


Blake
86 300E

The idea is to DISTRIBUTE the force applied to the bottom of the pan. It would be best to use a section of 2 x 10 or 2x 12 long enough to cover the entire bottom area of the pan. Don't use anything thinner than a two by because it won't be stiffe enough to distribute the load properly.

The smaller the area of contact, the more concentrated the load and the higher risk of damage. Spread out the load and you will have no problem.

Good luck,

...different car I know, but I am thinking about changing the engine mounts on my 500SEL as I am sure something is moving about and clunking the chassis when I brake and corner.. Anyhow, the 126 service CD's say's " use wooden base to prevent damage to the oil pan " when jacking the engine to remove the mounts. That, and a bunch of common sense should help prevent any damage to you or the car !

Thanks for the replies.

When I put a flat 2x4 across the bottom of the oil pan, the 2x4 rocks; that is, it can't contact both side edges simultaneously. It also rocks in the 4"/fore-aft direction. Must be a peculiarity of this M103.

Regards,
Sixto
91 300SE