I have an 88 300E with some sort of front suspension noise, it started rather suddenly a month ago but would only make a tapping/knocking sound occasionally that seems to come from the front drivers side (US) wheel well. It has become more frequent now to the point where after several minutes of driving it will start doing it constantly when weight shifts fore and aft. It has definitely become louder and more pronounced over time but I have never and still do not feel any difference in handling, the car still tracks straight and remains composed through corners (even on uneven pavement). I have also been unable to duplicate the noise by bouncing the front corner by hand or by tugging on the rotor with the wheel off. Any idea if this is just a bushing that can wait a bit or is my wheel going to fall off next week () Thanks --- John

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E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

My guess is a broken sway bar mount.

Check both ends and the large mounts forward of the wheel under the radiator (more or less) that mount it to the body.

Disconnect at both ends, and take it for a drive. If it stops, replace rubber.

Check play with the wheel/tire installed. Lots more leverage.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Owners bible also mentions sway bar mounts, I'll check it out this weekend if possible. If there are no cracks how hard is it to retap the holes?

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

It also mentions re tightening the upper strut mounts, what exactly am I supposed to spray on there before doing this?

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

When this noise was present on my w123, it would creak anytime weight was shifted to and from my front end. Ended up being a ball joint.

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1989 300E 144K

bring it up today and lets try to find it. you can help me pull the engine out of the '89 wreck today too

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

wish I could have, just moved this weekend so I'm still organizing the new house nest weekend I can start helping you clean out your Grav... err garage.

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

Tis sounds like an issue I had recently. Turned out to be the tie rod end.

The car would have a noticeable clunk when turning at slow speed. Also, a stretch of washboard road would induce a shimmy/wobble oscillation in the steering.

Most of the time the car drove well.

The repair was not overly expensive (about $350 at my local Tire Kingdom), but getting the right part can be tricky.

This is a dangerous issue to be left unresolved. If a tie rod end fails, you will not be able to steer.

Just had a similar noise/problem with W124. Started making a metallic knock on bumps. Started quickly, was not like a slow problem developed. car still handled well.

Sounded like the left front so took a look under and the front inner sway bar mount was gone. Not the metal bracket (that was still there) but the rubber bushing was gone.

On closer examination the bushing had split in two. Most of it was on the bar between the inner and outer mount, the other piece was on the bar on the inboard side of the inner sway bracket.

Easy to replace. The outer is held on with two 13mm nuts - the studs are permanently mounted. The inner is two 13mm nut/bolts. They are self locking nuts so a bit of a pain to undo but no big deal.

Hints - have some channel locks handy to compress the clamp when you are putting the new bushings back on, You can get one end on easy enough but I couldn't compress it by and and used the channel loks on the end of the clamp to bring it close enough together to get the nut on (You'll understand if you do it). On the outer bushing put the lower nut on first - there are two edges you can grab on the upper to do the compressing (nothing on the lower)

Good luck

turns out it was the ball joint, looks like I've been playing Russian roulette with 2 rounds in the chamber!!! Hopefully will be getting it replaced this weekend along with the fairly bad passenger side ball joint. Anything that would have caused this to happen rather suddenly or was the inspection station that did my car not all that long ago just sleeping on the job?

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP

This cannot be overemphasized!!
I'm in the middle of doing one right now.
It actually separated...in a parking lot, instead of 10 miles previous on the highway with my son in the car.

Question. How many miles on the cars with bad/failed ball joints?

I have my '93 in the shop right now to fix up the steering/suspension. We are replacing tie-rods (left, center, right), and control arm bushings. Ball joints are OK, per the shop. It has 130K miles. Symptoms were sloppy steering/wander on the highway, and a bit of a klunk in the drivers side front.
Shop says the struts are so-so, but at their prices I'll live with the OEM struts a while longer.

BTW, I do almost all my own work, but simply don't have time to deal with this now, and it cannot wait. I am simply shocked and astounded at the cost of having a top quality shop work on the car. It makes me realize why people simply buy a new Honda every 4 years.

- JimY

fyi on john's car, both ball joint boots were ripped and the noisy one was VERY dried out. Most of the ones I have seen the boots were ripped for a long time and ignored before they let loose.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

hopefully the white lithium will hold it until Saturday
Quiet as a mouse right now but maybe just the calm before the storm. Good thing you took a look when you did.

__________________
E30 B25
126.036
123.130 with 616-Frankenbenz (sold)
124.030-Greyhound (sold)
124.030-Schnauzer (sold)

DERP DERP