Fuse B is ATA

But , ATA not working should not stop car from starting b/c the car is supposed to start with Alarm OFF.

But no led may be that fuse [ or 11/12]

Morning,
I'm stymied. I see where the wiring goes thru the firewall but I can't access anything.
(I've managed to loose my CD manuals as well). I can see a two wire plug (round on top the the accelerator hits at max travel BUT I'm sure that's not the x49-2. I can see a small access panel in the black panel under and to the right of the steering column but can only get my fingers on a two wire plug (not even sure I could unfasten them). Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the interior panel covers.
Looks like the knee bolster has to be dropped first then remove the black plastic cover that extends down toward the pedals. I'm leery of screwing up on the interior panels without instruction. I hate to give up at this point. I will look for and image showing x49-2 location on the forum.

I think it is under the rug on the tunnel next to pedal, but I do not remember for sure...I will look it up on the CD location section in a bit..
If that is a hassel, you can also umplug the NSS and juper there @terminals 50 and 50R or you can pull the cluster and try the K38.
If you do finds that plug in the meantime and the NSS jumper does not work, then take a V test at the same V/GRN with the key to start..if NO , then there is no pwer from the K38 and that is where you have to go next.[ meaning the problem is K38 or Ign sw]

AD, If you're there, I got the cover off and exposed the x49. Now do I jump 3&4 in the female side that stayed on the base or to the male side that came unplugged and goes back thru the firewall. I'll make up the jumpers and wait to hear from you.

You can leave it plugged in and just jumper the V/WT and V/GRN.
If you have already unplugged it, you jumper the side that comes from X27..thereby eliminating the NSS .. After that jumper is installed , you still have to use the key for starter...........[you know that, but some don't]

Well, upon inspecting the plug, the top cap comes off and I can pull the violet leads right out, replace the cap and replug. I should then just connect the violet leads together(one is v/w the other is solid v) and try the key. waiting just to be sure I've got this right.

<<one is v/w the other is solid v)>>

Recheck that..look real close for that tracer color

#4 should be V/WT and #3 is V/GN..
Solid V is not NSS , but rather ign sw according to your schematic.

Verify before jumper.

AD, I checked the colors again and one is v/w the other solid v. Both of the these wires are heavy gage. The other wires are blk/rd and Gray/yel both medium gage. There is a fifth light gage Gray/yel with what looks like an in line fuse holder a few inches away. I did not find a fuse inside but it appears to be a bullet connector. I assume the lite wire goes on the same terminal as the other Gray yel.
I took photos but can't figure out how to attach an image. I could email it though.
The plug is square and the part that comes free routes down and out thru the firewall low right behind the accelerator pedal. let me know if you want to see the image.

I think you are at connector x42/18. [ 6 prong]

Do you have a Canadian car??

not Canadian. I have published photos and description here:
http://web.mac.com/fulltimefamily/iWeb/Site/Photos.html

OK
Give me a # match for the colors so we know for sure...maybe this schematic color tracer is incorrect..

This is what I have at x49/2

#3-V/GN
#4-V/WT

Also #1 is B/R and #2 is G/Y...
so, you do have the correct plug...i guess the tracer is just not as the schematic shows..

Conclusion..The 2 V will jumper NSS.

I've got v/wt on #4 and V on #3.
It's definitely a 4 prong connector.

OK

See my previous/edited post

So I'm going to plug back in and connect the two violet wires out side the plug.
I could rig it so that all four are plugged in and jumper from the back of the plug if necessary.

Yes
Put it back together and then just jumper 3 and 4 by backprobing the connector .. that will bypass the NSS. All is you are doing is shunting the wires before they get to the NSS
If that works , you need NSS..if not, then we need to see if you have power from K38..
Try that first