I brightened up all the copper "fingers" using a 3M ScotchBrite, and used DeOxIt Preservative around 10/08.

I could feel the buzzing on the relays behind the fuses, it was NOT K38 buzzing.

Weird.

:-) neil

No buzzing, but it's warm/hot to the touch after 10-minutes of use.

:-) neil

I'm not at the car now, is "fuse #5" located in the regular box in the driver's side or the computer on the passenger side?

Also, what amperage/color is fude #5?

Can a fuse work intermittenly?
 

Reading through the posts, I think i have a similar problem with my '95 E320 Sedan. A week ago the car wouldn't start only 15 minutes after shutting it off, the battery was fine, and it did have a buzzing sound. I replaced the starter and discovered it wasn't the starter, but the relay that fits in the fuse box under the hood's hinge on the driver's side. After changing, it started instantly. the next day the car wouldn't start. All the electrical wires are new. Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.

Car would not START or would not CRANK ????

The car would not crank.

OK

Take out fuse #5 and clean the holder ends and replace the fuse.
Or, next time the condition exist, spin the fuse in it's holder and retry...
also, try N on gearshift gate.

BTW: the problem was the silver alarm relay in the dash behind the instrument cluster.

:-) neil

<BTW: the problem was the silver alarm relay in the dash behind the instrument cluster.>>


Which is the K38 starter interlock relay.

Did you jump it or replace it???

"Take out fuse #5 and clean the holder ends and replace the fuse.
Or, next time the condition exist, spin the fuse in it's holder and retry...
also, try N on gearshift gate."

I did this and jumped the K38 module, now when I shut the car off, the starter continues to run. Do you have any suggestions? I was going to get a new K38 but need the exact part# before the dealer can get it.

You did something wrong.. The feed for starter is just tru the K38...it still needs ign sw feed to activate the starter.

Which pins did you jumper at k38?????????

bad starter??
 

I did pins 30&87. Everything ran fine after that. (Thanks for great advice!!

I had a new starter installed before I realized this was the problem. Then about a week later, when you shut the car off, the engine shuts off, but the starter motor continues to run for about 4 minutes, then shuts off. It does this infrequently.

Do you have any suggestions? Could it be a bad starter?

It hit me last night, my 94 E420 would not start. I could hear from the inside of the car a buzzing noise. Look under the hood and discover the buzzing noise coming from the combination module relay, located behind the fuses on drivers side firewall. I could not see any problem with any of the fuses due mainly because it was dark. The next morning I reinspected the fuses in daylight and there it was FUSE #5 with a hair line crack. So I replace the fuse, hit the ignition switch and then she fired up with no problem. :cool:

A good idea on that common problem is to replace that fuse with the SS glass.............

On the side of the road....using my lap top trying to figure out why FUSE "C" keep blowing and car won't start. This is what happen:

Riding down the highway then my setbelt light starts flashing as if a door was open. The front roof light would not turn off. I pull to the side of the road to see if my doors were closed. Shut the car off and then it would not restart. Open the hood look at fuse, notice Fuse C 16A red "rear roof lights, trunk light, central locking system, door lights, reading lamps, aut. antenna" was blown. I replaced it and it blow the second fuse.

Is it a big mistake to jump wire the fuse to start car then remove and finish my road trip back home which is three hours away. The car was running fine before I shut the engine off to check fuse.