107 Suspension/Steering Rubber Questions

[Strife]

All of the rubber on my 380SL has turned into crap this summer - but, hey, it's 23 years old. I have new parts specifically for the idler and the upper control arms, and I think I've got some bolts, nuts, and washers I can use to install the rubber parts, and I even have the ball joint tool for the spindle (I'm going to do the upper boot, too). The manuals seem pretty clear on parts removal, etc, but...

Questions to those who have done this before:

1. Were the rubber parts hard to install, and what did you use to do it with?

2. I have a NAPA supplied non-petroleum based grease called SYL-GLYDE to use (I've seen this recommended on other boards). How liberal with this should I be? Should I look at the idler tube and the inside of the rubber parts as a "resevoir"? It looks like what killed these parts is that the rubber lips that sealed the bearings failed, probably washing away the grease.

[donbryce]

I did my 560SL idler arm last winter, and the one in my 380SE 2 years ago. Relatively easy job IIRC, about 1 hour, plus connected parts removal/reinstal. I also used a bit of Syl-Glyde on the rubber sleeves, just a thin over-all smear to reduce friction on installation. Most of it will come off anyway as they are pressed/pulled into the tube, a very tight fit.
Use whatever works to get the old sleeves out, including air hammer and long chisel from the top end. The old bolt & nut can be used with washers to pull the new sleeves into the tube.
My steering was making a groaning sound at hard left turning of the wheel, which sounded like it was coming from inside the dash, under the glovebox, which was of course the idler arm sleeves, which had had all the chrome plating rusted away inside and disintegrated rubber.
Not really necessary to grease any of this assembly, but a thin coat on the metal surfaces to prevent rust can't hurt.