1995 E320 Wagon - Check Engine Light
 

My wife was driving the wagon home from work and suddenly, the car started to feel a tad sluggish and jerky. So, she decided to exit the freeway and the car died at the stop light. Luckily, the car started again and drove the car home using the side streets. She noticed that the car felt more sluggish (loss of power), not as jerky, and the check engine light came on. According to a post in the forum, the fault codes indicated the following:

22 Crankshaft position sensor signal faulty
25 Knock sensors or engine control module faulty

Also, I noticed that the hose between the radiator and the thermostat housing (the one near the water pump) was collapsed. I never seen this before and I do not think this normal. Any thoughts?

My question is should I go ahead and purchase all the components or change them one by one. For instance, fix code 22 first since it may fix code 25 as other posts suggest.

Also, are these fixes a simple DIY jobs? What would have cause these components to be faulty? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

CPS failure is common & most likely your problem.

If you aren't using 91 octane fuel you can get the code 25 for knock sensors.

As far as the hose goes...13-14 year old rubber hoses can fail. Also think of replacing the rad cap.

Its most likely the CPS. Its an easy fix and the part is about 125$

I would go to pin 8 for code confimation first....

I would also check if the car has the new style OVP relay.

Thanks, guys! I used the Built-in Diagnostic Module and the LED consistently gave me the same number of LED flashes after four tries. I am not familair with the pin 8 procedure. I used the post below to determine the code results:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107630

Is there something else I need to do? I already ordered the CPS part from Phil.

Cheers.

The Built In DM only gives you Emmisions related codes.
The actual detected faults you want to be concerned with are the ones directly from Engine Management of the HFM module . That is at pin *8 and if you go back to the site you were at , you will see how to go there with a simple tool.

Also check archieves for OVP .

Looks very straightforward enough. I'll purchase the electronic parts tonight. I'll let you know what codes come out from the reader. Now, I'm still assuming that I should go ahead and and replace the CPS, correct? Doesn't the DM cause the Check Engine light to turn on, anyway? Maybe I should reset it and read the codes again?

You are assumimg the codes means to change a part...codes are system activated , not part specific.
An EGR code seldom is remedied by changing an EGR valve...but futher testing of the EGR SYSTEM will find the cause of the fault in the system.
And checking codes in the actual modules is best b/c they are often coupled up with other codes which helps pinpoint the cause of failure.

Also, on your chassis , an OVP relay can cause all kinds of codes b/c it is power feed for the modules, along with the wire harness issues.

Changing parts b/c of a code will bankrupt you real fast. Find the cause.
The OVP relay had a modification change and as I stated , I would see if that part has the new part # on it before I changed anything. And look for cracking wire insulation.
If you already ordered a CPS, go for it..but don't be surprised to find it not to be the conclusive fault. And this is not to imply that the CPS is not the cause of the fault.

Get the HFM codes..you will find much more info by going to the other modules...and you will have the tool for further issues, as that chassis is the last one with owner access Flash Formated codes ....[ OBD1]

The code reaser was built to specs and the results were codes 25 and 33. I checked three times, just to be sure. What do the codes mean?

I finally found the OVP and the only numbers that are showing are 89 7219 000 and 140901. Is this the old one or the new one? Time to change?

On my 95 E320 with mysterious stumble and multiple codes, the culprit turned out to just be the MAF.

This thread has the code list: Linky

Yours are interesting, don't know what to make of them.
25: CMP sensor not recognized or implausible
33: Maximum retard setting on at least one cylinder has been reached or the ignition angle deviation between the individual cylinders is greater than 6 degrees crankshaft angle

I think CMP is the camshaft position sensor.

- JimY

[QUOTE=jcyuhn;1950879]This thread has the code list: Linky

Post # 5....

Clear the codes and see what comes back .
How is the Harness insulation? Specially at the Cam sensor.
I would also pull the OVP and see if there is any poor connection /tracking/burn at the socket pins..

From post#10, the MAF was replaced about three years ago by the dealer. Yeah, ouch!

I was working on the car too late last night to realize that the codes from PIN 8 were already posted, Sorry!

When I removed the OVP to check on the part numbers last night, the harness looked good and the socket was clean, including the pins. I could not see anything obviously wrong with it. Does removing the battery constitute the same act as clearing the codes since I removed the battery when I was checking on the OVP. When I started the car the CELamp was off and then came on after 5 minutes. Then, I checked the codes again using the code reader. Same code results as before.

I will check the harness on the CMP tonight and will let you know. If the harness is good, should I go ahead and change the CMP?

When you list the codes , you must mention which PIN they came from...

You want DM/PIN 8/ PIN 14 to see what code coupling is present.

If one has a CE lamp , that means the DM has codes and that the Emmissions module [ N/59] has detected a fault that will affect emmissions...but many of those codes actually come to the N/59 from the other modules , and those will be more specific. That is the reason for the tool. If a code on PIN 8 does not effect the emmissions mandate , then it does not talk to N/59 and a CE does not appear. But that does not mean there is no fault..it just is not an emmissions RELATED fault. Only DM registers those faults and only DM lights CE lamp..........hope that helps explain the system.
So, if we see a DM code and then we see a different code from one of the engine Mnagement modules [ 8/14 ], thay are said to be coupled and many are commonly coupled, helping us in an accurate system failure or remedy.

Got it! I went ahead and reset the codes again and this time DM/pin8/pin14 are all registering ones - no fault found. The CElight is still on the dash. I tried this procedure three times. Any ideas?

After code clear , you have to turn key OFF for 10 secs , key ON for 10 sec , and then start the car..the CE will go out unless you still have a code on the DM [ Push-Button]..

After following your procedure, the CE light is now off. I drove the car for 20 minutes on the side streets and it seems to be running fine. No CE light. Around the CMP sensor, there was a lot of "crud" that I wiped off before clearing the codes. Maybe this did the trick?

Go back into pins 8 and 14 after a couple of days driving to be sure . Remember , those modules can have codes way before the DM gets them and only the DM brings ON the CE lamp. So going there first will help isolate the problem faster . It very well could have been a poor connection at CMP..

Since the last post, I have been checking the codes on a daily basis. So far, no fault codes are resulting on the DM/pin8/pin14. I think the car is fine so far in regards to the fault codes.

From Post#2, I changed the rad cap and this seems to have done the trick. Thanks for all your help!

Cheers.

Rats! The CE Light came back on yesterday evening. Using the code reader, the codes resulted in the following:

DM:
22: Crankshaft position sensor signal faulty
25: Knock sensors or engine control module faulty

Pin8:
25: CMP sensor not recognized or implausible
33: Maximum retard setting on at least one cylinder has been reached or the ignition angle deviation between the individual cylinders is greater than 6 degrees crankshaft angle

Pin14:
1: No fault found

At this point, I'm assuming that I should replace the CMP sensor. Is this correct? If the CE light comes back on, then the CPS sensor or should I just replace both? What do you guys think? Is it safe to drive the car around until the components are changed?

How is the wire harness???

I checked the harness cable and it is fine. No cable deterioration or exposure of wires. It looks like it is still in good shape. When I change the CMP sensor, is there anything I need to be aware of?

I changed the CMP sensor and that was very straightforward. So, I went ahead and reset the codes and today, the CE light turned on again and came back with the same set of codes (that's strange). As the next step, I'm ready to change the CPS on the car. Can you please direct me where I can find this part on the engine? I searched the forum and I still cannot find the exact location. Thanks in advance....

Arggh! This is getting really strange. I changed the CMP, CPS and the knock sensors and the CE Light lit up again. The error codes are the same as before. I'm stumped. Any ideas? :confused:

Knock sensor?

All right, Mr. Dalton. You are correct. It eventually was the wire harness. After opening up the insulation on the old cable, you can definitely see the corrosion on the wires. I kept the old cable so I can examine it more. Got the part and replaced it using the DIY article posted on this forum.

Gee, what an ordeal but unfortunately it is not over....

The CEL light came on again and now the following codes came up...

DM:
5: Exhaust gas recirculation faulty

Pin8:
39: Exhaust gas recirculation switchover valve - open/short to ground or B+

Does any one know what this is and how to fix it? Thanks in advance.

Egr on DM Module is system failure detection. [ code5 on DM]

Egr SOV open is confirmation of possible fault for EGR system ..that info has been tranferrred to N/59 Emmissions Module from pin 8 HFM/SFI Module.

...meaning, you have a SOV not allowing vac supply to activate the EGR valve on demand and the cause of that failure is electrical at the SOV, not HFM signal.
My check would be to make sure you do not have the two SOVs mixed up [ one for EGR , one for Air system]..that is a common mistake when doing a harness. They are piggybacked and you can have either the connector wrong or the outlet vac port lines switched.
Check that first, if OK, then take an Ohm reading of the coil at the EGR SOV.

If you get that fixed, I would also recommend you do a hand vac test at the vac port of the EGR . Pull a vac there manually at idle ..when the egr opens , the engine should attemp to stall..if NO, then you have a blockage at the egr tube at the head or a bad EGR diaphragm. Tube blockage problem is infamous on 104 engines w/HFM.........................

The connections were good but went ahead and reconnected them. Cleared the codes and no further issues with the CE light.

Per your suggestion, I did the EGR check/vacuum tube block test and the results were good. From searching the forum, I will perform the cleaning for safe measure.

Thanks again to everyone for all their assistance. Learned a lot here and still learning!

Cheers.

Very good.
If you passed the hand vac test, then the probability of a blocked intake return tube is unlikely...but that model did have a Factory TSB on the EGR valve having a modified version update that remedied a sticking EGR valve actuating stem. They modified the diameter of the shaft so it would no longer hang up. That would be a possible concern if you get a repeat of CE w/egr code.

I'm not 100% sure on this but I remember reading somewhere that the updated EGR valves are supposed to have a red dot on them. Mr. Dalton can you verify this?

Thanks,

J. M. van Swaay

[QUOTE=J. M. van Swaay;2043387]I'm not 100% sure on this but I remember reading somewhere that the updated EGR valves are supposed to have a red dot on them. Mr. Dalton can you verify this?

Thanks,


The Factory put out a Service Campaign on the EGR upgrade and these were to be done on any car that came in for service with a EGR fault. Once the Valve was changed , the Tech was supposed to put a dot of paint on the new egr to let any subsequent Tech know that the Campaign had been done on that particular car. The reason for this is the factory never changed the actual part # on the EGR with the new diameter stem, so the paint was for ID purposes. The problem is many got changed , but the paint dot just did not get added .
So , when one is doing a hand vac test, he also wants to do a snap shut test to see if the valve hangs up at all............

Mr. Dalton,

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

J. M. van Swaay

You're Welcome.........