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  #1  
Old 11-12-2008, 12:41 PM
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124 Sun Roof Cable Replacment Question?

I have a 124 and the cable on my sunroof broke. I’d like to see if I could replace it myself and want to know if need to remove the headliner to do it?

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Old 11-12-2008, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB300se65 View Post
I have a 124 and the cable on my sunroof broke. I’d like to see if I could replace it myself and want to know if need to remove the headliner to do it?
No, the headliner does not require removal, however, the inside panel on the sunroof will need to be removed to access the cable mounting plate. There is tons of info on this subject in this forum. Having performed this work on my '86 300E, it takes time and patience to undertake this task. If you do not have a manual it is highly recommended you do so before diving in.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:28 PM
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Yeah, a lot of patience!

And the manual definitely.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the info.
I've got the headliner cover off the sunroof itself and disconnected the cable attachment to the roof after getting the headliner panel off, just so I could open and close it by hand.
The roof was binding pretty good prior to the cable breaking and I have seen some info here on that, but nothing detailed enough so I can use it to replace the cable and fix whatever else needs attention.
I've been searching for a thread here that explains the step-by-step replacement of the cable and can't find one. Can you point me in the right direction?
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MB300se65 View Post
Thanks for the info.
I've got the headliner cover off the sunroof itself and disconnected the cable attachment to the roof after getting the headliner panel off, just so I could open and close it by hand.
The roof was binding pretty good prior to the cable breaking and I have seen some info here on that, but nothing detailed enough so I can use it to replace the cable and fix whatever else needs attention.
I've been searching for a thread here that explains the step-by-step replacement of the cable and can't find one. Can you point me in the right direction?
You have done the hard part now you have to approach the other end which is the sunroof motor inside the left panel of the trunk (near the antenna motor). So far you have not stated if the sunroof motor runs or not so lets start from there.
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:42 PM
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I did one, seemed pretty simple.

Start with the sunroof panel in the fully closed position.

With the panel down, remove the two bolts holding the cable to the carrier frame.

In the trunk, look at the two knobs on the motor/drive. One is round, the other hex. Pull the round one out until it pops into the outward/disengaged position.

You can run the cable out manually, using the hex drive, 17mm (lug wrench size) if the clutch isn't set too tight (many are too tight). In this case simply rotate the hex until the cable is far enough out that it is disengaged from the drive, then pull it out from the sunroof end.

I installed reverse of this, lubed and fed the new cable down into the tube until it hits the drive, then turned it down to the point where it lined up with the bolt-holes that secure it to the carriage. I bolted it on, pushed the round knob back into the engaged position, and all was well.

If your cable was broken, extracting it might be a little more difficult. You will also need to adjust the stop point of the sunroof, which seemed quite easy also IMO:
My method was to run the sunroof closed using the switch. It will stop when the stop-position is reached in the motor. Then I pulled out the round knob, ran the sunroof to the proper closed position using a wrench on the hex, and re-engaged the round knob. Worked great, ... the manual was at home and I was in too much of a hurry to go home for it, so I created my own method.

Another thing: The hex-shaped plastic hides a smaller hex and a lock-nut. This is the adjustment for the slip/clutch in the system. If it is too tight (sounds like yours is if it broke the cable), adjust it.

Disclaimer:
The manual probably has a more precise 30-step process for this, and it is most likely better than my method in some way, you will probably be ahead to read and follow their instructions. This also is from memory, ... your mileage may vary.

Another note: If the whole thing won't work, you can reach the two bolts securing the cable to the sunroof carriage through the tip-up vent panel. Use something to protect the headliner material as you work, but it is a way to manually open the sunroof and then the interior panel if the cable is completely bound up or otherwise unable to move the sunroof panel.
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Old 11-12-2008, 11:03 PM
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This is great information. Is the manual you speak of the thick blue Mercedes Service Manual for the body? Actually my manual is for the drivetrain for my 123 300D turbo and this car is an 88' 300TE wagon (124) but I'm sure everything is pretty much the same as the sedan.

I've been laying awake in bed at night invisioning tearing out the headliner to get at everything and I'm overjoyed to know they designed this right. Any other manufacture would probabaly have you tearing out the headliner and dropping the rear end to get at a bolt.

Thanks
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:42 AM
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Pictures

GSXR's Sunroof excursions:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_sunroof/

So you can see what to look for.
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:17 AM
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I hate sunroofs......anyhow this might help:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1315822-sunroof-nightmare-need-some-good-advice.html
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:35 AM
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Appatula

Great link! Your roto-rooter tool was pretty ingenious! The pictures give me a better understanding of the task and being pretty handy I’m sure I’ll get it figured out.

Thanks

mb300se65
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  #11  
Old 11-21-2008, 08:59 AM
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Appatula

I'm at the same stage of repair as you with a 87 300D sedan. Have same problem. Replacement cable does not move freely in guide tube. Is it possible for guide tube to be damaged?
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2008, 11:27 AM
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Prior to mine breaking it got really slow and seemed like it was binding somewhere, almost like it needed to be greased and after spraying gun oil on the slide rail and a smear of white grease it seemed to move a little better, but I’m wondering now if the problem wasn’t the cable binding.

I’ve read some of the other posts about removing the sunroof and there appears to be problems with the slides on the rails causing the roof to cock sideways a bit and I can’t remember this happening with mine. Can someone tell me whether these problems are two separate issues?
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:08 PM
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Mercedes started installing the tilt/slide roof in the 201 & 124 in '86/'87. My '91 126 had the tilt also, I don't know when it started. The roof prior to this is less troublesome, as the tilt mechanism is often the problem and many people on the Diesel list repair and then avoid using the tilt feature. It isn't an impossible repair job, but it does take a special tool (searching on the diesel forum for 124 sunroof might yield the applicable threads and details on fabricating the tool) and an entire day once the parts are procured.

As far as binding, the cable is often the cause there, it is the first place you should look IMO. You can on the 124, 126, and 201 detach the front of the cable from the sunroof carrier by pushing the tilt/vent panel up and working carefully through it, the cable is the two 8mm(?) bolts just rearward and centered. The cable can be threaded out through this panel without opening the sunroof and removing the inner panel (which is the FSM proceedure) if you're careful and protect the headliner panels from damage (cut easily).

If the sunroof drive cable does not move freely, it is most likely the cable grease, which is a pretty intuitive cleaning/re-lube process, using a rifle-cleaning brush to clean the tube as far as possible.

The cable lube past is available from Phil/Fast-Lane above in small quantities. I've had good luck with pure silicone grease (Plumber's Grease from hardware) as it has similar properties to the M-B lube, but to each his own, the OE stuff is pretty cheap if you're waiting for parts anyway.

You will need to disengage the switch mechanism to do this, here's my next shortcut, use it at your own risk:

To service the cable, I close the sunroof completely.

Next I pull out the plastic knob on the sunroof motor assembly to disengage the limit switch.

Open the vent/tilt panel in the sunroof, protect the edge with a good thick rag, and remove the two bolts so that the cable is unattached from the carrier.

Now I use the manual crank (per owner's manual in your glovebox) to run the cable out into the cabin of the car until it disengages the drive gear.

After the cable is no longer engaging the drive gear, you can pull it out into the cabin. It is greasy, keep a towel or other item in the cabin to protect the interior, simply threading it out through the window with a towel on the windowsill works. Keep the cable as clean as possible, grit will cause big problems.

Clean the guide tube which is immediately rearward of the cable attachment point on the carrier. Be careful to not be so forceful that you kink the tube, that will require headliner removal, which means the rear window etc., ... you want to avoid it.

Clean and lube the cable, and re-insert it until it stops feeding in, you're now against the drive gear.

Carefully, turn the manual sunroof override to retreive the cable into the tube, a second person is helpful here to keep the cable clean as it is being fed in. If it binds when starting, pull the cable back an inch and re-insert.

Once the cable is lined up perfectly with the bolt holes, bolt that sucker in.

Push the knob back in (hopefully you haven't turned it during this process) to re-engage the limit-switches. If all of the planets and stars are aligned for you, the limit switch will still be properly adjusted, and the sunroof will stop in the completely closed position. If not, you can run it until it shuts off in the closed position, pull the knob out, manually adjust the position of the sunroof using the manual-override nut on the drive, then re-engage the knob/push it in.

This has worked for me on a couple of cars, it is NOT the long and difficult procedure in the FSM and doesn't require any special tools, which is why I do it this way. Your mileage may vary, do it at your own risk.

This is also completely from memory, so if I have left something out, please correct me.

One other important point: If the manual override on the drive seems to be very hard to turn, don't. Loosen the lock-nut on the unit to reduce clutch friction, there is an adjustment procedure, ... I don't remember, but two of mine had clutches so bound up you could not manually open/close the roof without (most likely) damaging the gears in the drive.

Good luck.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:35 AM
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Nice writeup Jeff! I am still battling my sunroof problem after all of the parts I invested in. That damn guide tube is either damaged or severely gunked up, I'm thinking about using your method to clean it, then it will be off to drop the headliner . Is there a way to maze the headliner out of a 124 sedan without having to take the rear window out? Maybe taking both front seats out could possibly give you enough room to work on the guide tube? I'm in somewhat uncharted waters here....still!
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2009, 03:28 PM
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BTDT also: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=248784&highlight=headliner

No need to remove windows or seats, nor to bend the headliner. I hope you have the '90 or newer version as that one is molded and IMO a bit easier. If you have the '86-'89 W124, the headliner is the stretched version and the rear edge is trapped by the rear window, be very careful removing it to that point as it tears easily around the rear corners of the sunroof opening.

Another addition; if the sunroof drive cable does not have plastic between the spirals for its entire length (except the ends), it is missing in places, replace it. It will only get worse.

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Last edited by babymog; 07-25-2009 at 03:34 PM.
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