Need tips on rear flex disc bolt removal...
 

I got 2 off but just rounded the nuts off 2 stubborn bolts. I'm bracing the front bolt head with a socket on a breaker bar and a pipe extension to the ground while hammering on the other end of an open end wrench at the nut. There's no space at the differential to fit a socket on the rear side of the disc. I think the rubber disc is also dampening the blows. I used PB Blaster penetrating oil too.

These discs were replace a year ago on my 87 300E so I suspect the mechanic over-torqued and possibly applied red loctite to the nuts. I'm removing the engine because the car was rear ended.

I'm nearly to the point of getting out my Dremel tool to cut the nuts off to bolts. Not comfortable creating sparks with the close proximity to the fuel pump and all the encrusted oil... :eek:

An impact wrench would probably do the trick.

you're using a 6 point socket and not a 12 point?

Do you need to save the driveshaft? If not, just ignore the bolts entirely and when you pull the engine, the driveshaft halves will separate.

-CTH

combination spanner?
 

can you get a ring spanner on the nut? or is it too far gone?
beating an open ended spanner will usually round the nuts alright!!

otherwise try a hacksaw, standard or junior and try to cut a split along the nut, or else just try to hacksaw the bolt off altogether. nasty place, not much room.
G

P.S.
could you use the open ended spanner as the brace? and crank it from the socket?

pifcat2, use a box-end wrench on the nuts/bolts facing the differential. An open end wrench is likely to cause the problems you're having. Try bracing the box-end wrench and turn the socket/breaker bar setup to loosen the nuts/bolts. For the driveshaft halves to separate you'll need 41mm and 43mm open-end wrenches to loosen the nut at the slip joint. I replaced the rear flex disc on our 1992 300CE last year and the nuts/bolts were fairly easy to remove after the first half-turn.