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Given all the sage advice, if you are really interested in Mercedes cars for the long term - you need to find a really good mechanic first. Get a 240 stick or an early W124 (260E/300E) that has had the key repairs already done (search the forum). Then do your local research an find the best indy shop in your area.
I've found that your relationship with your mechanic is the most important element in managing maintenance and repair costs as well as keeping the car in good shape. Many of the really expensive repairs occur because realtively minor issues were not identified and corrected in a timely manner. I've had a 220D stick (gone now), an '88 260E (still own - 300K+ miles) and a '97 S320 (300+ miles). The two I still have are running great. I spend around $2K on them both annually. I do almost all of the non-mechanical stuff myself (mirrors, stereo, seats, ...). |
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Has anybody read the latest issue of Star magazine? There is a piece about a W140 with over 450k miles, and it still literally looks new. Just goes to show that all it takes to keep any car running is money, and lots of it! :P
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There isn't any indication in the article that he's spent lots of money on it although he has had it maintained at the dealer. One of the points of the article is that it hasn't needed much work. Of course it was highway miles. The article also supports another of my theories - that the real benefit of synthetic oil is to make owner feel good. It's never seen a drop of synthetic but the oil has been changed 55 times, or about every 8k miles.
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Buy a 2000-02 E320/430, or spring for an E55.
W210's are not to bad, certianly better than a high mileage W140. |
For a daily driver having a huge engine is totally pointless. Just harder to work on and more expensive when it needs repair. Most of my driving is done at 70 or below....and 20-25 in the city. A 1 liter engine can move a car 25mph.....
I'll probably stick with a S320 if I ever get a W140....which I do hope to...as my next car (or additional to my W126) |
Days are gone of easy to work on, low cost luxo cars. I own all sorts of weird vehicles, aside from my Domestic trucks, the W126s are just about as simple to work on as can be.
If you can justify Diesel costs (fuel, maintenance, etc), look into a 300SD. Great rides, very simple to operate on, etc. Also consider a late 735iL E32 BMW (stopped in mid '92), they have manual climate stuff and a 3.5L I6 that runs pretty strong for what it is... |
I had a W140 with the V8 - great but
There's more to the car than the engine. Do you like creature comforts, like heated leather seats, memory reclining seats, a great sound system, a car that holds the road, and the knowledge that you will win an any accident.
The S Class is the finest car in the world. But, please remember that a car that originally sold for $60,000, ten years ago will not be any cheaper to maintain than a Toyota from 10 years ago - but a he** of a lot more fun to drive. Here's my word of advise: There is nothing more expense than a cheap Mercedes. I personally moved from a 1993 500SEL (w140) to a 1995 E420 (w124) because the creature comforts were just getting to much to fix (the seats tore, the window regulators broke, the vacuum systems failed- both, the radio died, and the rear shocks needed replaced) but the car was a joy to drive. Yes, the E420 can break also, but has not and has been easier to fix. BTW the M119 engine (4.2 liter V8) is great. Please see: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=236683&highlight=w124+money+pit |
I have both a 94 E420 and a 95 S320 and consider them just about equals when it comes to repairs. But the big advantage both of these cars have over a 126 is that they have diagnostic systems that tell you what's ailing them, and that system is accessible by a DIYer with simple code reading device.
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The 90-91 300SE is about the cheapest of the old S-classes to maintain and run, but not by much.
If you're dead set on getting an older S class (be prepared to spend some money) I'd go with one with an M103 motor and not one of the V-8s. The V8s are wonderful motors (most of them, there were some lemons) but the added fuel expense isn't good for a college budget. The M103 motor is a stout little beast with a solid bottom end. Apart from the oil leakage issues you will have to fix, and a head re-do, you will get lots of miles out of it. Unless you ran it dry, you could easily expect 200K miles probably much more. If you spend around $3K for the car, and another $3k fixing all the age related issues such as the suspension, the head gasket, and stuff like power window switches and sliding jaws, then you'll have a damn nice car for the money. When I bought my '90 300SE I paid $3500 and I fully anticipated spending at least $2K to get it back to roadworthy. As such, I have been quite happy with my purchase. But if I had thought that the $3500 was going to be all I was spending, I would be very disappointed. Bottom line is - if you buy a used MB (or any car for that matter) you must factor in repair expenses into your purchase price. When you buy a used car, you are also buying problems and problems take money to fix. I would think that $2K is a good minimum number for making an old 126 road worthy again. As for a 140, they are wonderful cars but the electronics can be infuriating. I've never owned one, but I've helped a friend out more than once. He has spent way more keeping up his 140 than I have keeping up my 126, and my 126 has more miles. Having said all that, if I had say, $10K to spend, I could get a far better car by totally re-doing a 126 back to factory spec than anything I could get for $10K on the used market. One just has to be willing to spend the time and money to do so. -tp |
I believe the 420sel to be the bargain of the late W126s. 40ft-lbs about 1000rpm sooner makes a huge difference around town over the M103 powered W126... and the taller diff cruises about 1000rpm less on the freeway. Less wear, less noise, etc
Obviously not a quick as the 560 but you have better fuel econ, easily should match the 300sel if not better it (car doesn't have to be pushed as hard to run), and less stuff to potentially fail. V8s really just need timing guides and the chain inspected on a regular basis (100k is a good guide interval). The M103 always consumes some oil, V8s rarely do... they have a few typical leak points (valve covers, oil level sender, lower pan gasket). V8s do have intake manifold seals that go over time, labor is similar to the M103 head job... just do it and be finished with it. The heat/vent systems are super simple to rebuild in these and AC isn't hard if you just buy some tools and budget the weekend... 134A sucks in these too. At least to me. Vacuum pods are reasonable considering how long they last and used climate heads are out there. I bought a Programma reman for $20 at my local yard. All 126s are sensitive to tired front ends and junk tires. They're not too involved to rebuild, again with a weekend budgeted you can do it for pretty reasonable all things considered. My 300sel is a nice ride, but it's a lot of car for that small of a motor. I bought it cheap as it wouldn't move, just idle (AC comp seized)... I'd have bought a 420 had I driven it first. Best advice? Decide on a realistic budget and go drive a bunch of these to see what you like and don't like. And if you can't turn your own wrenches, and enjoy doing it, stay away from these cars. |
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Last I looked Diesel fuel costs more than 93 pump down in my area by a solid 60-75¢/gal, for a while it was in the $1/gal area difference. Combined with lower operational costs of a gasser and parts makes it a very viable option. The W140 with the M104 isn't that bad, the five speed auto makes it nice ride. Something like 220hp/230tq from it. It's not as if the W140 gets 12mpg city in that configuration. Probably is in the mid 4500lb area and low/mid 20s freeway. From what I gather the E300Ds only do low to mid 30s freeway, not worth it to me for the extra cash up front plus higher fuel plus maintenance costs. If I was buying an MB in this market, I really doubt I'd buy another Diesel unless I was brewing my own fuel. It's really a shame we get hosed with the ULSD crap. |
You can't forget that despite the higher fuel cost, diesels are way less needy. The M103 needs way more attention than the 617....as I've recently learned. :eek: I don't like engines that need several sensors and computers to keep them running properly (or at all!)....it just leaves that "hmm...if a computer or sensor dies I'd be sitting at the side of the road" feeling in your mind.....not so in a diesel.
IMHO the 617 is way stronger off the line than a M103....The M103 is weak until it gets over 2000 rpm....then it pulls quite hard. (awesome!) The off the line torque just isn't there. I've mashed the pedal in 1st in our 300E and its pretty leisurely on taking off....no tire squeal thats for sure.....but the shift from 1-2 will break the tires loose/make the car squirm on dry road....when you're going at full tilt. There's something the 617 won't do. :D ;) If going for a gasser W126 I'd be open to any of them....probably the first I found for the best price in the best condition. M103 leaves tons of room to work on it....but the 420 has more power. :D It'd be a hard decision... |
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