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WHAT THE **** is up with my plug wires!!!!
Arggghhhhh simple tune up on a gasser and the plug boots are stuck on with gorilla glue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I thought I was supposed to turn them 45-90 degrees and they would pop right off, I cannot believe how stuck they are. Help me before I break the wires. |
There is a special tool to remove the plug wires without damage, basically modified pliers. The wires are pulled off, turning them does nothing.
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Give us a clue on which car you're talking about.
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Also I sprayed some penetrating lube down there as well. |
I had the same issue with my 95 SL500. You need to get a good grip on the boot a give a quick tug. Once you get them off, make sure you put fresh Di-electic grease in the boot so next time they will just pull off.
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Craftsman tool 9-47315
spark plug pliers $10 I used both pliers and hand. |
Boot removal
MB tool #110 589 01 01 00 (Hazet #2771) is a 17mm double open-ended wrench that is placed UNDER the boot and then levered to lift the boot up from the spark plug.
:vbac47679 |
1 Attachment(s)
This is what I use, works good for me.
Part # 103 589 00 37 00 |
I use a narrow-tip small visegrips to latch onto the metal boot flange. Plenty of safe leverage with this.
Steve |
no, no tool, just work them off nice like, they'll come off with patience...a little twist here and there should work nicely...
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LOL, not this particular set. Well, great success! I did buy a set of pliers the did the job, however one of the inner plastic tubes actually broke and forced me to "dig: it out. Took a 20 minute job and turned it into and hour and an extra trip to the auto parts store. The good news is that the car runs much much better now. I put new wires and platinum plugs in. I cleaned the points as well but am so happy with the result gonna go ahead and get a new distributor and rotor as well. Yes I am that cheap. Also decided to do all the fluids as well. If anyone sees this, I need to know what ATF fluid to use, I don't have a manual for this car. Thanks for all the advice! |
well, that's good/bad concerning the wires but putting platinum plugs in was a very poor move...very bad idea....i would remove those pieces of crap immediately and put the new coppers in myself....
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Yes, you want to ditch the platinum plugs post-haste. M103 motors hate platinum plugs, ask me how I know......
--- Points?? ---- -tp |
Whats the story with the platinum plugs? They were the only BOSCH plugs the store had, I actually did ask for the copper plus but they didn't have any.
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Dexron III. Also, don't cheap out on your coolant: putting the green stuff in will allow accelerated corrosion, and you will be writing here soon asking for help on chaging your leaking water pump. |
Not another spark plug post
but there are lots of rants on the use of Bosch platinum plugs in older MBs. Most of the problems are with plats used in MBs that use waste spark ignition systems like M104 engines with +2 and +4 plats being the worst. At the risk of risking all out war, my experience with my 1991 300TE (M103) is that single and +4 plats performed at least as well as the stock plugs and lasted substantially longer. I also rountinely used Bosch single plats in my 126 Euro 380SE and Euro 500SEL with no problems and 25K plug life. Just my own experiences here, not extensive research. In short, IMO if your M103 runs well on the platinum plugs that you have installed leave them in until proven otherwise. Mark
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Hooked, yeah I am still curious, but I am not excited about pulling them back out unless I can get some clear direction on what harm they will do, |
Been there done that. They are a marketing gimmick. Use the factory recommended parts, fluids and then have fun.
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Do what you wish. It's your car. I had bad luck with them. They ran good for about 1500 miles and then started to miss. I took them out and all were fouled. Never again...
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Just wanted to update that my local mechanic concurred with you guys and said the platinums would foul prematurely and that he felt the car would run better on the coppers so they are coming out.
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