Does that mean the adaptations are reset? Even transmission adaptations (if a car had them)?

Never mind. I found it. There is no sign of gas in the regulator or vac line. When I tried to pull a vacuum on the vac line with a hand pump, it wouldn't hold anything at all. The vacuum was gone before the handle was fully released.... I didn't check any further as it's dark out. I'll look at any suggestions in the morning.

You need to pull the vacuum on the regulator. Not sure if that is what you meant.

I"ll pull a vac on the reg tomorrow morning.

You don't Pull a vac on anything...you are looking for a vac leak at a line or connection.
I already told you how to test the regulator and it has passed the test. It leaks gas out the port into the vac line , which the engine then sucks in raw, unmetered fuel which the engine management can not control.
A ruptured reg also can no longer control the fuel rail pressure to spec, so the a/f mixture is also off.

Common vac hose leaks on HFM engines are at the SOV valves for both the AIR system and the EGR system, along with the Purge valve..that is why you want codes...........................first check is the plastic line under the frint cover...they carck all the time on that engine.

And none of this means you do not have a bad Maf, it is just things to check first ...getting codes will help in your diagnosis.

I built a LED type blinker code thingy... Which pins, and how are they numbered??
By under the front cover, you mean under the black plastic cover on the front of the engine??

Front engine cover. It lifts up to expose the vac lines and SOV valves that are common leak problems.
The codes are in that site I posted for you.
The pins #s are on page 12 ...your car should have that 38 connector ....does it ?
Also go to page 31/34..the pins i would be loking at right off would be 19 and 4.
Your chassis is 140.032 with engine 104.994. That will be a HFM/SFI system , but being from Cnd, I don't know if it the same as US FED version...b/c it has NO CE , then it is NOT Cal version and has no N/59 module.
See if you have that plug on page 12.

I'll assume by front engine cover, you mean the black plastic cover on the top front of the engine...
Chassis is actually 140.033.
Yes, it has the 38 pin connector inside the box behind the firewall on the right hand side. I do have the plug on page 12.

<Chassis is actually 140.033. >

Same car w/LWB..

Why are you having so much trouble with the front engine cover ...pull it off and get to the vac lines,

38 pin plug on page 12 is correct , so , again... just go to that site I posted and you will see all the codes for your model and what pins to use.
I am not versed on all Cnd mandates , so you wiill have to punt on the exactness as the site is for US versions.
That is all I can tell you.

I didn't see any leap problems. I pulled the connectors off, plugged the ends, and pulled a vac on them as well... No leaks...
Tried the code reader. I plugged it in. Black to 1 red to 3, and yellow to 4,8,19. I couldn't get a single blink from the led on any of them... I had tried to use it before, and I might have hooked up the black and red backwards. Would that fry the LED??

Until I get a code reader that's working, is there anything else I should be checking??

Yeah..check your code tool.

Just put the Bk -and Red + on a Battery and push the button..that will tell you if you have constructed the tool correctly.

I'll go check it out soon here. My internet wasn't allowing me to access the forums. Sorry for taking so long to respond.

It didn't light up.

Well, my thoughts on that is you did not follow the parts section of the instuctions... You will notice that the LED that I mentioned to use is a Radio Shack Led with a built-in resistor, thereby making the LED a 12 v led ..you prob used a standard LED , which requires a seperate dropping resistor to be added so it does not blow out... which will happen the very first time you use it.
The second possible is you have the led wiredBackwards ..Leds are POLARITY sensitive, meaning they do not work unless they are wired correctly [ pos/neg]...you can tell that by reversing the leads at the battery in the test I gave you and see if it lights then..if yes , you have it backass.
Have to read the stuff as it is posted b/c it is thought out .

Did you observe the LED polarity ???
Did you use a 12 volt LED ???