Ummm MB doc, think i'll need you to draw me a picture on that. I have no idea of what that is..or where that might be.

If your tower is still sealed from the factory, it will have a ball bearing in the top.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

While you're in there, check the idle air hoses previously mentioned in this thread. (see the yellow arrow). These hoses get hard and brittle and stop sealing around the ends. There is another idle air hose coming out the other side of the idle air valve, but you can't see it in this picture. They caused me tons of grief.

Also, you can easily test your idle air valve from here. Pull off the wire (blue arrow) and put a 9v battery to the terminals. You should hear it clunk.

M.B. Doc is an expert (I'm not), so heed his advice!!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

ok for todays update...I did what MB doc (thanks for the pic)said and there was no change in the car. It's still doing the same. It will almost start but won't run. Put a little gas down the air valve and it fires right up then quickly dies. Every now and again can really pump the throttle and it will stumble around for about 3 mins and die. Check fuel pressure and it is the same as before. 80 psi. I also did what tinypanzer suggested (thanks for the pics too). Took 9 volt battery to idle control valve terminals and got no sound, no nothing. Checked the hoses too and they are ok even the one that runs under intake (used a mirror). So whatcha guys think now?

What is the condition of the fuel that's in the gas tank? Fresh or Old???

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

fresh.. about three days from gas pump to car.. And sorry slk230red didn't say thanks to you for pics

Are you sure the fuel pump circuit is operating properly. You might want to remove the Fuel Pump Relay and put a jumper on pins 7 & 8 to keep the fuel pump running.

Just a thought.

From another 190E owner:

"190E won't start

Found the problem, it was the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump would work when you initially turn the ignition on but when you tried to start the car the fuel pump wouldn't run. Pulled out the relay and bridged pin 87 to pin 15 so the fuel pump is always running when the ignition is on. That resolved the problem so im just waiting on a new fuel pump relay."

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

That's a good suggestion above.....

The idle air valve should be clicking over when you put 9v to it, though technically it is designed for 12v. Every one I've ever tried on MBs and Volvos clunked over at 9v (or 9.56 from a fresh battery) just fine. But before calling it dead, I would use some jumper wires to test it with an actual 12 volts.

If it is dead, that might be an issue you'll face later, but if you can't get it to rev up with the accelerator where idle air is not a factor, then it seems more like fuel delivery or ignition.

Perhaps you had more than one issue, and now that you've fixed your fuel pressure something else is amiss such as fouled out plugs, worn cap and/or rotor.

Easy enough to check.........

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-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

I have put a new cap, button, wires and plugs in it. That was my first thought. BUt the more i fool with it, the more I've come to realize that it has to be fuel delivery. Just doesn't make sense why I can pour a little gas in it and it fires up with ease. Not sure on the relay either. You can hear it (fuel pump)work while I'm cranking the car. But what the hell i've tried everything else.I'll will give that a try too. Its like the car doesn't have fuel in it. Think I'll go get a couple more gallons of gas just to make sure. I've got to just be missing something. What makes sense to all of you? When the pressure is right...fresh fuel is in it..ignition parts are working (because it fires with ease just add gas)...battery is hot...

Unscrew the radiator cap, pull up another 190, screw the cap down, problem solved!

All kidding aside, yes it does sound like a fuel delivery issue. But I'm no expert......

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-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

You stated that the Idle Control Valve did not click when you touched the 9v battery to the terminals. It should have, so first thing I would do is pull the connector off of the ICV and measure the resistance across pins 1 & 2 of the ICV. It should be around 8.8 ohms.

Next, set your VOM to DC volts and measure from pin 2 on the ICV connector to ground with the ignition on, you should read 12v (Batt. voltage). If you get this reading, then that means your OVP Relay is good. If you don't get this reading, check the fuse on top of the OVP Relay.

If you have 8.8 ohms or so across the ICV and Battery voltage on pin #2 of the ICV as tested above, then plug the connector back on to the ICV, have someone turn the ignition on, put your hand on the ICV, you should feel it click.

If you don't feel it click, then it might be stuck. To check this condition you will have to remove the ICV and look inside. At rest, the slide should have a slight opening. If not, then the slide is stuck open. Clean the inside with some WD40 to free it up.

I like to check things before throwing money at new parts.

****NOTE**** Like I stated previously, the Rubber Vacuum Hoses have to connected securely and properly with no leaks for the Injection system to operate. Did you reach under the air horn to make sure the lower ICV hose is plugged in?




OVP Relay

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Ok gang, I'm back with today's findings. Slk230red I did what you said and measured across pins 1 and 2. I got 13.2 ohms. Checked the connector at pin 2 and got 12.1 volts. Had my daughter turn key on and still didn't feel anything. So I pulled the ICV off and sprayed it down with wd-40 and let it soak for about 30 mins. Went back and ran a jumper from battery to ICV while i had it out. Hooked positive to pin number 2 and touched negative (alternating) to pin 1 and 3. I could see the little flap move. One side would close and the other side would hold open. I'm assuming that is the correct function. So put back on the engine and hooked the connector up. I left the hose that runs beside the valve cover off so I could see down in it. With the key on that valve kinda just "flutters" the whole time that the key is on.It never closes all the way. And it doesnt open past 1/8 of an inch.Is that normal.? Also, which way should the arrow be facing on the ICv, down or up? Just wanna make sure that has not gotten turn around by previous owner. I'm not that lucky but what the hell. The arrow is facing down now..

Howdy,
I had a similar issue with my 93 190e 2 years ago and it turned out that when I installed my OVP relay I did not seat it firmly. Please don't laugh (.:.) No more W201's for me. Here is my 10c worth:

1. Please make sure the OVP relay & the FP relay are seated firmly in the slots. You have to really push hard to make sure they are seated correctly.

2. Check the ignition coil.

smk_texas
03 ML500 70k miles
98 S420 70k miles
MBs previously owned
90 300D
93 190e 2.3
93 400e
92 190e 2.6
83 300D
81 300SD

The ICV doesn't close, it either has a 1/8" gap with no voltage applied, or opens all the way with voltage applied. The fluttering you're referring to is when the engine is running.....this action is controlled by the CFI Module and compensates to maintain proper rpm's, like when you put it in gear and/or turn on the A/C.

OK, so you have 12.1 volts which means the OVP Relay is good. Hook everything back up and start looking at the fuel system again. If I remember correctly, the arrow is up on the ICV....airflow direction to the intake.

Re-check again to make sure the fuel pump is running during cranking.
If it is, then I would look at the fuel distributor to make sure the plunger isn't stuck. You stated that the pressure is 80 at the fuel in connection, but you are not getting fuel out of the injectors.

Here's an idea....select a fuel line and injector that is easy to get to. The injector pulls straight out after you remove the hold down plate and fuel line. Then reconnect the fuel line and injector in such a way that you can place it into a container for testing purposes. Have someone crank the engine and monitor the injector output. If no fuel comes out, then try it again while pushing down on the plate. If still no fuel, then remove the injector and try it again with the fuel line placed in the container.

If your fuel pressure and delivery rate is good at the input on the fuel distributor, then it must be the plunger or something.

Keep reporting back...this is an interesting thread.

Good luck,

Dave

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

That's a good point, I have to hold the bottom of the socket with a tool to be able fully seat the OVP relay.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible