Angle Torquing M103 Head Bolts

[long-gone]

I'm putting the head back on my 91 300E 2.6 M103 tomorrow and was just wondering what methods people here use for angle torqueing.

I bought a KD angle torque gauge, which is a round plastic dial mounted on a short 1/2" extension. You turn the lens, which has a indicator printed on it, to set it to zero. There is a angled rod which can be set to anchor against a convenient part of the car (or hand held I suppose) and which holds the body of the gauge still while the breaker bar is being turned. The friction fitted lens moves with the bar as you turn it and you stop when the required degree is encountered.
Well, I tried a few dry runs and it was really a crappy tool. It would hang up and stick or stutter 90% of the time. No way would I trust it on my head. I took it apart and put a touch of grease on the contact points of the wavy spring where it contacts the lens. That's where it needs to slip in order to work correctly. It works MUCH better but I'm still leery of it. Also, it won't fit to do the bolts against the firewall unless I add a 6 inch extension which I'm not keen to do either.

So, what tools methods do you guys use? I'm considering aligning the breaker perpendicular to the head and just turn until it's parallel to the head. It seems I could accurate enough results like that, particularly if my motion is smooth and complete.