1988 300E Engine Sputter/Stall in drive
 

Hello Board,
I have a 1988 300E, in the last week in had been running rough and then stalling upon pressing the gas from a stopped position. Today it started sputtering and stalling while running 65 mph. I changed the fuel filter today and still the same symptoms. The engine runs and revs fine in park; however as soon as you place it in drive and step on the gas it stalls, (not fun in rush hour traffic).

Any helpful ideas would be appreciated.

Scoot

Scoot, when was the Oxygen sensor changed last? Remove the distributor cap and check its condition and the rotor. Inspect the ignition wires and spark plugs. If the coil has never been replaced I would suspect it too. If you have access to a good spare coil try it.

THank you for the reply Fred.

O2 sensor changed 1.5yrs ago. Cap, Rotor and coil, I am not sure when. I had alot of work done on it when I was overseas, 2.5 yrs ago.

I'll check the rotor and coil 1st,and I'll let you kmow.

Thanks again,

Scoot

CE light on? Any codes read? Any other symptoms, like hard starts?

Hi Cal,

No CE light, and starts and runs fine in P. I do not have a code reader, so I could not say what the codes are if any.

It runs OK when the engine is cool, as soon as temp reaches 80C I start having problems, and again only when driving.

Thank you.

Scoot

My 88 300ce (M103.093) began stalling about 3 weeks ago. Going down the street, say 35 mph. Just stop. Pull to side. Put in park. Restart immediately. Stalled the next day too. Then ran fine for a week. Then stalled on Sunday in traffic again. Drop into neutral still coasting & immediately restart. The next day it stalled twice and the next day 3 times and the last time it wouldn't immediately restart.

Towed it to a dealer. They diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump relay & replaced same. Got it back last Thursday and it has run fine ever since. From the service bill, they indicated they were able to replicate the stall and then diagnose the problem. I don't know if it's BS. but if it was an educated guess, they guessed right in my case. (Or so it seems so far.:o)

Do a search on M103 stalling and SSS (sudden stalling syndrome) The problem could be from a number of sources. There are a few current threads on this, with multiple suggestions.

My car had no other symptoms other than just stalling. It ran smooth. at idle and at all rpm's. (That is, right up until it quit :rolleyes:)

Funny, that they listed the part as the "fuel pump relay" and when I searched this site here for price comparison, there was no part having the same name.

Good luck.

fuel pump relay faults
 

On my 103 300se the stalling was cured by removing the pump relay and resoldering all the joints .
The engine stalling does give a indication like a ignition fault ,but quite a few experts from the list advised correctly to a fuel pump relay fault.

mak

doesn't start
 

I am new at this; but here is my problem and would appreciate any help.I have a 1988 300E with 127k+ miles and it started to just stop and it would not start for at least 20 min. then it would strart and run all day.
I changed the fuel filter but it still was happening. It finally stopped altogether. I get fuel to the top of the fuel distribution assembly but none to the plugs. During the time this has been happening if you left the car running it would run indefinatly and then it would just stop and you couldn't start it for at least 20 min. I need help.
Thank you
Bill M

Jim, the fuel pump relay is listed under "Body Electrical".

Another culprit of stalling is the Crank Position Sensor at the back of the engine. My car stalled in traffic and threw code 7 (CPS), so I replaced it, 5+ months later it has not so much as hiccuped.

Whuda thunk. I looked under "engine electrical" and "fuel delivery". I guess they think differently than me. Body electrical imo would mean things like headlamps wiper motor.

Looks like I paid a nice dealer markup. :eek:Significantly more than the 155.00 listed here. Well, they gotta live too, I suppose.:(

Thanks Fred.

Solved a similar problem on my 86 300E with a new Fuel Pump Relay. Real simple to replace.

Yep thats the way it goes.

Luckily mine consisted of a $15.10 A/C shrader valve at the dealership, and 49c at fastlane :(

Thank you all for your help on this. I will check the fuel pump and some other items listed. The relay should still be good it is only 2 yrs old, maybe 20K miles.

I will post my findings to help others too.

Thanks again!

Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay would be located on a 1988 300SE? Would a bad one cause hard starts? How long can a bad one be troublesome before finally biting the dust? Thanks for the good info y'all............