A/C not cold on '91 300E>>
 

Hi guys, I have a '91 300E that has been converted to 134a. I have had the car for a couple years plus, and the a/c has always worked great. Now it's just slightly cold. Compressor sounds like its turning on fine.

I am handy, but know nothing about automotive a/c systems. Where do I start? I am on a budget and would like to try something myself before bringing it to a shop.

Thanks for any advice...

-GH

buy a diy recharge kit with the gauge. It will indicate if it needs more gas or if it's another problem...

with 134 the system only has to be a little short to impair the cooling performance.a converted system also will not have had the hoses swapped for barrier hose so it will lose refrigerant slowly---add a little every year.

Okay, I feel stupid. Recharging the a/c was simple. Got myself one of those handheld machines and a can of R134a, and it was a breeze. A/c is back working great and just in time. Total cost was only about $50. Hopefully I don't have any major leaks...

Also had really squeaky brakes on the 300E and fixed that today as well. I got some of the Benz brand break pad paste and put in new wear pad sensors. Squeaking is gone at least for now...

It has been a good day. Thanks guys!

-GH

91 300E A/C Recharge
 

I have a 92 300E that I had converted over to 134a in 2002. About every other year I have to have can added. I had new hoses put on at that time but I think that there is a sloooow leak through the compressor. Question, where is the valve to add freon located?? You had brake pad noise which you fixed with grease. I have a left front rattle that sounds like a front bumper or whatever when I go over a small bump. I just replaced my front shocks and couldn't find a tie-rod or stabilizer problem. I've had my shop put it up on a hoist and tried using a rubber mallet and had no luck??? An suggestions from cyber space????

tarheel75 :confused: :confused:

There is no valve for adding freon. Strike that, R134a is not freon. Freon was a trade name for R12. Use a manifold set connected to low and high side and monitor both. Charge through the low side.

DO NOT USE A DEATH KIT!!!!!!!!!! This is the cheapie green zone, red zone gauged can from your local store, referred to in this thread as a DIY kit. Monitor BOTH sides and charge properly. If there are questions, take high and low side readings and post them here along with ambient temperature.

Suva is the name for DuPont R134a.

control arm bushings
 

I would be checking the control arm bushings as they are likely the culprit - loud bumps when going over speed bumps - sometimes sqeaky suspension noise is the symptom, but eventually they require replacement - you can just replace the bushings without replacing the entire arm at a reasonable cost.

And if you do 1 side do both.

John in San Antonio

Control Arm Bushings
 

What is the best way to check the condition of these bushings short of disassembling the entire suspension assembly?? Thanks for you suggestion.

tarheel75 :):)

Control Arm Bushings
 

I forgot to ask is this a DIY or is it a must shop project. Does it take any special tools. Replacing the front shocks was a no brainer? The rattling noise can be created by going over street center line reflective marker. There is no squeaking sound just a rattling.

tarheel75 :confused::confused:

Tie rod end?