I didn't look through the whole list of codes; I just looked for those that you mentioned.

Measuring the static refrigerant pressure is the next step. You'll want to use the blue hose, since it goes to the low pressure gauge. With the car stone-cold, connect it to the low-side fitting and read the pressure, and translate that to refrigerant temperature (this may be marked on your dial). It should read ambient. It will read lower if you are essentially out of refrigerant (no liquid left in the system) but could charge it. If it reads 0, you should replace the dryer as a minimum (after fixing the leak).