91 300E 3rd gear takeoff (labored)
 

Hello,

Yesterday my wife reported a sudden onset problem with her 91 300E 264K miles work horse.

The problem is as follows:

Start car , reverse out of driveway works well,(reverse works well under all conditions)

Place selector in "D" and accelerate but the car feels like the emergency brake is on(it's not)

The car can be powered through this "braking" and once moving the transmission shifts and drives normally.

If I put the selector to 2(low) take off is normal and I simply need to return the shfter to "D" or "3" at about the right shift point and it drives/shifts normally. It's like a "shift-o-matic"

If there is a down hill takeoff or if the car doesn't get near a complete stop, leaving the selector in "D" will operate seemingly normally.

It is my impression that while accelerating from a dead or near dead stop,with the selector in "D" or "3" position, the transmission is trying to take off in 3rd gear.

I know the car normally uses 2nd gear for takeoff and I guess thats why it feels normal if I take off manually.

Extra info: when stopped on a hill the car will roll backwards in manual low gear "2", but not in "D"




Any thoughts?

Thanks

E-spin

When was the last time the transmission was serviced? (Fluid and filter, including the torque converter)......

91 300E Transmission
 

Hi,
Thanks for the suggestions. I will replace the filter and fluid next week. I was hoping to get a few Ideas about what to look for before I drop the pan. It seems like I might want to drop the valve body while I'm in there.

Meanwhile, a couple of realizations. Several weeks ago, I rebuilt the power steering pump and had an almost complete lose of power situation which I was able to drive through. I took it home and stalled it on my up hill driveway. I killed the battery trying to restart it and finally had it pulled into my garage. I charged the battery and it started right up. At the time I wrote it off as a moister issue since I had washed the engine before the project. In retrospect, I think it was the very same issue.

Also, I have logged many successfull miles since to failure became permanent , buy taking off in "2" and replacing the shifter to "D" as soon as the first shift is required. Shifting is smooth, timely,and the car is responsive and will kickdown when when slowing or if the accelerator is depressed fully. (from 4th to 3rd only).

Espin

When you drop the pan, inspect it carefully for any signs of sludge or filings or any other foreign object.

If you find something you are probably in for a rebuild or changeover tranny.

It has been the experience that doing a fluid and filter change precedes a worsening situation.:confused:

This is the sort of stuff you don't want to see in the pan.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3452/...62884da8_o.jpg

Latest developement.

I took it to a local shop that was willing to drop the pan and look at it for me. He said the pan was clean and so was the fluid. He said he actuated all the bands and clutches and they were in spec. He seemed to think there is a ball and race set up,towards the back that will wedge the balls when the input overspins the output and engages second gear but they are likely unable to lock. When I use the shifter it overrides this mechanism and works. He put it all back together and suggested I drive it as I can till I can't. He didn't charge me anything.

This is tough call for me. The car is worth 2K maybe, but it is a trusted friend and I really wanted to see it get to 300K+. I've been getting prices between 1.5K and 2.2K for a used or rebuilt tranny. I probably need to put another 1k in it to make it nice again ( A/C compressor, monovalve,circulation pump, fuel sender unit..)

What are your thoughts?

espin

Don't have an answer to your problem but I am curious about something. My 1991 300E starts in FIRST gear - my 1990 starts in second gear. You said your 1991 typically starts in second gear?

Yes!

I wasn't sure about all that I had read soI started experimenting and asking. I always thought that it was a little odd that my selector settings only offered D,3, and 2. I was able to confirm this by flooring it from a stand still. This is something I normally never do, but sure enough it kicked down. For what it's worth, when I takeoff in manual 2nd, it feels exactly as it always has.

espin

If it typically starts in second gear, it should start in first when you pull the shifter all the way back to 2...yeah, I know it sounds crazy.

Hello,
At this point I'm just wondering if it is possible to have the car go into 2nd manually (B1 and B2 active) but in drive be in 3rd (B2 and K1 active) and the problem be anything other than the valve body. Doesn't the fact that it works at all and in all gears imply that the clutches and bands are OK. I guess I'm hoping somebody knows exactly whats different about the tranny at rest in drive and in low(2nd).

Thanks

Espin

I had a shop pull the pan and reported that there was little dirt and the bands and clutches were all within spec. I was hoping they might drop the valve body and find something but they suspected a hardpart failure toward the rear of the tranny and called for a rebuild. Very decent of the guy to try and he didn't charge me. In a slightly different problem I have noticed the tranny is taking about five seconds to engage reverse(when cold) and I have been told that this is a more typical failure which will eventually result in total loss of revererse and require a rebuild. My plan moving forward is to drive it the way it is until it stops. Meanwhile I will try to find a good deal on a lower milage used tranny or a rebuilt one. I bought a "rebuilt" tranny for my 96 ford ranger and it didn't last any time at all. Any thoughts on rebuilt verses used?